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What's the specs on those? OEM replacement or do they advertise ability for more weight?
They advertise OEM replacement. Now from the thread I saw, they are raved about them opening the hatch itself, being easy to close, and USA made.
That was a few years ago and unfortunately it seems they are now made in China. They did come today and once I figure out how to get the hatch open (was opening, now it's not), I'll install them and see.
The lift-gate shocks arrived within 24 hours! Damn I love Amazon Prime. The build sheet and door panel shows that this vehicle came with 225/75R15 tires and not 215s, so I put 225 Firestone Destination A/Ts on. The front is done and I'll have the rears mounted tomorrow. Since I do a lot of night wrenching, I got me a plug in shop light that is bright as hell. Also checked the brakes and suspension. Not as bad as I thought.
Brakes look good, turns out they have been done somewhat recently, score! Front suspension, going to upgrade some components here like the shocks. Since I wrench late into the night, I got myself a night light lol Sylvania LEDs to replace the turn signals. One is missing from the right front after the collision. Hard to tell in the picture, but the turn signals work! The collision damage is officially repaired! 225/75R15 Firestone Destination A/T's
Looking good, you've made a lot of progress in a short amount of time. Keep up the good work!
You'll love the strong arm supports, I put them on mine a while back they are the perfect balance of stronger than factory lift strength yet not obnoxiously strong.
Looking good, you've made a lot of progress in a short amount of time. Keep up the good work!
You'll love the strong arm supports, I put them on mine a while back they are the perfect balance of stronger than factory lift strength yet not obnoxiously strong.
I just finished installing them, very nice struts.
Funny thing, box says made in USA but the stickers on the shocks say made in Turkey.
It stays up on its own but a typical issue that the 97-01 Cherokees has an interesting twist.
The plastic adjustment piece that causes problems with the latch opening is well missing.
Got the tires on and started it up to find loss of pressure again. The oil filter adapter is completely blown out, so I decided to fix it finally.
Got my *** kicked and it is still on there. The repair had been attempted or done at one point in the Jeep's history and the T60 screw is stripped out.
At least the tires are on and it looks good. Now if I could get the oil filter adapter to cooperate.
Destination A/T 225/75R15 Saw this trick in using a 1/2 or 12mm wrench and using the full socket to support itself up against the motor mount. Works great if the screw ain't rounded out.
Threw a Mopar filter on and added oil, leak has gone down for now but going to have to figure out something new to get the adapter out.
In the meantime, I decided to look at the speakers and their wiring. I mean it couldn't be as bad as the radio.
Right?
Well..........
Twisted together with nothing but electrical tape covering some of them. One of the twisted wires was rubbing up against bare metal. Doh!
Another thing is when the Kenwood speakers were installed, the factory wiring harness was chopped and speaker wire was run from the speakers to the head unit and was sticking out of everywhere in the interior.
I'm going to rewire the speakers back to the factory wiring and if the wiring is an issue, I'll replace the factory wiring with standard 16 gauge.
lol... I can't say I've never clipped a harness before especially since I did that recently, but it was because I was moving the speakers from the hatch into the much-better-located soundbar in the back. I knew I was never going to put them back in the hatch, and the wires were shot anyway so I clipped the ends off the harnesses and spliced in new wires to the harness going to the soundbar.... win.
lol... I can't say I've never clipped a harness before especially since I did that recently, but it was because I was moving the speakers from the hatch into the much-better-located soundbar in the back. I knew I was never going to put them back in the hatch, and the wires were shot anyway so I clipped the ends off the harnesses and spliced in new wires to the harness going to the soundbar.... win.
I've clipped factory harnesses in situations like that or to add factory accessories (cough..Kia...cough) but to replace factory wiring with speaker wiring and then do a shoddy running job to the dash no.
I've clipped factory harnesses in situations like that or to add factory accessories (cough..Kia...cough) but to replace factory wiring with speaker wiring and then do a shoddy running job to the dash no.
The speakers are done and hooked back up to factory wiring through the use of crimped, rosin core soldered, and heat shrink connections. Best part is they work! No need for speaker wire hanging out of every part of the interior.
Was speaker wire, now back to factory.
i used the butchered radio harness to test the sound of the speakers in the soundbar, now to replace both parts of the harness. The aftermarket harness was corroded as well as hacked up.
The speakers are done and hooked back up to factory wiring through the use of crimped, rosin core soldered, and heat shrink connections. Best part is they work! No need for speaker wire hanging out of every part of the interior.
Was speaker wire, now back to factory.
i used the butchered radio harness to test the sound of the speakers in the soundbar, now to replace both parts of the harness. The aftermarket harness was corroded as well as hacked up.
03-04-2017 | 04:35 PM
