'00-'01 XJ Cracked Cylinder Head (OVERVIEW)
#136
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Ocean, New Jersey
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The only way a new head could cause problems is if its defective, improperly installed or you break something else along the way when installing the new head.
#137
Rebuilt heads on high mileage motors can cause blow by and failure of crank and rod bearings .It's simple when you install a rebuilt or new head on a old motor you increase the compression of the motor because of many factors like good sealing valves and the fact that the head has been planned down .This added compression on a worn motor puts more stain on the bearings and they possibly go or it causes leakage around the piston rings causing blow by.
I've taken chances on putting rebuilt heads on Chevy engines with 140K on them and I have had good results and then again I have put heads on engines with 100k and had them start knocking in 2000 miles.I have had better luck putting used untouched heads on worn motors where I try and get a used head with similar mileage.Hey we all do things differently and sometimes they turn out well sometimes they don't.
CATFISH
#138
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Ocean, New Jersey
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have only owned Jeeps for a couple of years so I'm not really in the expert range as far as Jeep engines go but motors are motors no matter what brand.I have worked on raced and rebuilt Chevy engines since I was 15 years old and I just passed 60 now.
Rebuilt heads on high mileage motors can cause blow by and failure of crank and rod bearings .It's simple when you install a rebuilt or new head on a old motor you increase the compression of the motor because of many factors like good sealing valves and the fact that the head has been planned down .This added compression on a worn motor puts more stain on the bearings and they possibly go or it causes leakage around the piston rings causing blow by.
I've taken chances on putting rebuilt heads on Chevy engines with 140K on them and I have had good results and then again I have put heads on engines with 100k and had them start knocking in 2000 miles.I have had better luck putting used untouched heads on worn motors where I try and get a used head with similar mileage.Hey we all do things differently and sometimes they turn out well sometimes they don't.
CATFISH
Rebuilt heads on high mileage motors can cause blow by and failure of crank and rod bearings .It's simple when you install a rebuilt or new head on a old motor you increase the compression of the motor because of many factors like good sealing valves and the fact that the head has been planned down .This added compression on a worn motor puts more stain on the bearings and they possibly go or it causes leakage around the piston rings causing blow by.
I've taken chances on putting rebuilt heads on Chevy engines with 140K on them and I have had good results and then again I have put heads on engines with 100k and had them start knocking in 2000 miles.I have had better luck putting used untouched heads on worn motors where I try and get a used head with similar mileage.Hey we all do things differently and sometimes they turn out well sometimes they don't.
CATFISH
#139
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Tallahassee, FL
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I am no pro either, but I think things like bearings going out on motors with new heads have more to do more with overheating of the motor when the old head went bad or antifreeze contaminating the oil and eating the bearing material, than higher compression with the new head. I myself after replacing a head on an 01 Grand Cherokee afterward had bad oil pressure when it warmed up.... ended up being the Cam Bearings.... which I can't see being caused by higher compression. I kind of look at motors like original paint, once heavily messed with it will never be the same unless a complete high dollar professional job is done to redo it from scratch. Usually with me its either a complete rebuild or throw a junk yard/used motor in it.... usually the second when it comes to Jeeps as I don't want to cry over my high dollar paint or motor when wheeling it.
Last edited by bryweb; 08-27-2014 at 12:37 PM.
#141
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The Dana 30LP vs. HP is not a big deal, usually you can find a Dana 30HP for $100 - $150 and its an easy swap. (and you end up with a spare set of axle shafts and hubs)
As far as the motor, I prefer 96-99 motors swapped in (but 91-99 will fit), these I find all the time for $250-350 at PicknPull, Craiglist, or Facebook groups (You need just the long block which includes the head) mount the 00-01 intake & accessories to it and order an eBay "2000 Jeep 4.0 Stainless Header" for $140 (needed to cover the bigger exhaust ports on older heads)- So for about $400-500 and another $100 in fluids, gaskets, etc, and a couple of weekends in the garage you got yourself a great jeep.
If you do the swap, let me know I can help get you in the right direction in regards to setting up the cam sensor, using the right Permatex silicone on the intake/exhaust gasket, making simple brackets for the coil - or just search my posts and you will find the answers.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/00-06-Jeep-Wrangler-4-0-I6-TJ-Stainless-Exhaust-Manifold-Header-01-02-03-04-05-/251998188188?fits=Year%3A2000%7CMake%3AJeep&hash=item3aac43329c&vxp=mtr
Last edited by bryweb; 09-21-2015 at 11:52 AM.
#142
John, I don't want to hi jack your thread but I noticed today that I have the same symptoms. Changed the oil today at the 3000 mile interval and did not notice any water or sludge or brown goop or white goop. The engine has 156K miles.
The coolant bottle on the inner fender was nearly empty. The coolant bottle is stained on the inside, it's not real clean.
I did notice that when I start it up on very cold days there is condensation in the exhaust, but I don't think that's abnormal. I don't smell any coolant in the exhaust, not sure if it would smell sweet like coolant or not if it was being leaked into the exhaust.
Please post what you find, it may help me too. I'll begin to watch to see how long it takes for my recovery bottle to empty.
Thanks...
The coolant bottle on the inner fender was nearly empty. The coolant bottle is stained on the inside, it's not real clean.
I did notice that when I start it up on very cold days there is condensation in the exhaust, but I don't think that's abnormal. I don't smell any coolant in the exhaust, not sure if it would smell sweet like coolant or not if it was being leaked into the exhaust.
Please post what you find, it may help me too. I'll begin to watch to see how long it takes for my recovery bottle to empty.
Thanks...
#143
So which engine was this dowel pin
#144
#145
Newbie
Sorry to post on this old thread. My local junk yard has a 2003 Grand Cherokee. Is that head plug and play on my 01 Sport, or are there modifications to make it work?
#146
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
2002 to 2004 WJ Grand Cherokee heads are "Bolt In" on your 01 XJ to replace the cracking 0331 head, make sure it has TUPY stamped somewhere on the head, it should being a 2003.
PS: Head bolts are only reusable once, to be safe I would get new head bolts, also you will need thread sealer for one of the front head bolts that go through a water jacket.... then of course you will need the head gasket, and might as well do a valve cover gasket why its off. FELPRO is my preferred gasket choice.
#147
So glad i found this thread. I put some money down to hold a 2001 Cherokee 4wd Limited today until I can get it to a mechanic on Monday. Jeep has 88,000 miles and looks very clean. The price is crazy for this Jeep but not sure I will be buying this one. I will drive down and check out the head # and go check out a 1999 with 140,000 miles also tomorrow.
The cherokee seems to fit the bill really well for me. I plan to tow it behind the motorhome as soon as I retire in 11 weeks. Need the 4wd for the desert and mountain traveling.
2001 Limited they want 11,000
1999 sport they want 4,500
Thanks for this post everyone!
Mark - San Diego
The cherokee seems to fit the bill really well for me. I plan to tow it behind the motorhome as soon as I retire in 11 weeks. Need the 4wd for the desert and mountain traveling.
2001 Limited they want 11,000
1999 sport they want 4,500
Thanks for this post everyone!
Mark - San Diego
#148
So glad i found this thread. I put some money down to hold a 2001 Cherokee 4wd Limited today until I can get it to a mechanic on Monday. Jeep has 88,000 miles and looks very clean. The price is crazy for this Jeep but not sure I will be buying this one. I will drive down and check out the head # and go check out a 1999 with 140,000 miles also tomorrow.
The cherokee seems to fit the bill really well for me. I plan to tow it behind the motorhome as soon as I retire in 11 weeks. Need the 4wd for the desert and mountain traveling.
2001 Limited they want 11,000
1999 sport they want 4,500
Thanks for this post everyone!
Mark - San Diego
The cherokee seems to fit the bill really well for me. I plan to tow it behind the motorhome as soon as I retire in 11 weeks. Need the 4wd for the desert and mountain traveling.
2001 Limited they want 11,000
1999 sport they want 4,500
Thanks for this post everyone!
Mark - San Diego
I know the value's gone up lately, but these are XJs, not FJs.
#149
#150
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 6 cyl
Head or clogged catalytic?
sorry to jump in here but I'm desperate...
I recently had a little hesitation while traveling at about 35mph. I figured it had been awhile since I did my plugs and wires, so I did that. A couple days later after stopping at a light and accelerating again, it was really chugging, not accelerating much. I pulled over and right before it seemed like it was going to stall, it revved up and everything was fine again.
I checked the plugs and didn't like the gap they had (3 electrodes, pre gapped) and two of them had a little black char on them, little enough to just wipe off. Well it kept happening so I replaced the plugs completely, again. Kept happening. Took my cap off and inspected the rotor, tiny bit of corrosion on the tabs but I just brushed it off. Everything worked fine for a few days, now it's doing it again.
now I have no clue, clogged catalytic converter? Fuel filter? The whole engine is filthy so if I had a cracked head or something I can't tell, seems pretty greasy everywhere down there. Valve cover gasket I did a year or two ago. I'm just at a loss here. Any help is appreciated!
oh its a 97 xj
I recently had a little hesitation while traveling at about 35mph. I figured it had been awhile since I did my plugs and wires, so I did that. A couple days later after stopping at a light and accelerating again, it was really chugging, not accelerating much. I pulled over and right before it seemed like it was going to stall, it revved up and everything was fine again.
I checked the plugs and didn't like the gap they had (3 electrodes, pre gapped) and two of them had a little black char on them, little enough to just wipe off. Well it kept happening so I replaced the plugs completely, again. Kept happening. Took my cap off and inspected the rotor, tiny bit of corrosion on the tabs but I just brushed it off. Everything worked fine for a few days, now it's doing it again.
now I have no clue, clogged catalytic converter? Fuel filter? The whole engine is filthy so if I had a cracked head or something I can't tell, seems pretty greasy everywhere down there. Valve cover gasket I did a year or two ago. I'm just at a loss here. Any help is appreciated!
oh its a 97 xj