00 cherokee sputters, dies. Please help.
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Model: Cherokee
00 cherokee sputters, dies. Please help.
Ok all of a sudden my 00 xj sport has a sputter/die issue while driving and at idle. will run perfectly fine for a while, get up to temperature, then sputter, try to stay running (revs jump) and then die. The jeep starts RIGHT back up EVERY time it does this.
I have replaced:
Idle air control valve
TPS sensor
Crankshaft position sensor.
The crankshaft position sensor I replaced with a cheapie from pep boys, and it made the jeep idle like ****. Very sputtery, seemed to make it run worse. So I put the stock one back in because while changing the sensor, I removed part of the loom at the advice of some online material I had found to see if the wires were okay. They were all stripped and crossing, so EUREKA! this is my problem right? RIGHT! so i thought... Upon letting the jeep run for 10-15 minutes after electrical taping each wire away from the others, (ran FLAWLESSLY) and looming them, the sputter comes back and I go to get in the jeep, and it dies. Restarting perfectly once again 5 seconds after dying.
I am at my wits end with this thing and am thinking of just putting it in neutral and rolling it off a cliff.
ANY help or insight will be EXTREMELY appreciated as this is my daily driver and I am stranded until it gets working... Please if you need ANY more information ASK! I will provide ANYTHING to get this situation resolved.
Thanks in advance guys.
I have replaced:
Idle air control valve
TPS sensor
Crankshaft position sensor.
The crankshaft position sensor I replaced with a cheapie from pep boys, and it made the jeep idle like ****. Very sputtery, seemed to make it run worse. So I put the stock one back in because while changing the sensor, I removed part of the loom at the advice of some online material I had found to see if the wires were okay. They were all stripped and crossing, so EUREKA! this is my problem right? RIGHT! so i thought... Upon letting the jeep run for 10-15 minutes after electrical taping each wire away from the others, (ran FLAWLESSLY) and looming them, the sputter comes back and I go to get in the jeep, and it dies. Restarting perfectly once again 5 seconds after dying.
I am at my wits end with this thing and am thinking of just putting it in neutral and rolling it off a cliff.
ANY help or insight will be EXTREMELY appreciated as this is my daily driver and I am stranded until it gets working... Please if you need ANY more information ASK! I will provide ANYTHING to get this situation resolved.
Thanks in advance guys.
#5
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Year: 2000
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This might be a long shot, but this sounds similar to an issue I had with mine. The fuel injectors were getting to hot from being so close to the exhaust and would cause a misfire in two cylinders (usually 3 and 6). This would only happen once it got up to temp and I was stopped (idling at a long red light, etc...) A check engine light would come on, and then it would sputter and die. It threw two misfire codes and it took me a while to figure out why. A good layer of thermal tape on the injectors fixed the problem.
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Year: My Jeep is a GMC
"I have replaced:
Idle air control valve
TPS sensor
Crankshaft position sensor."
Why, were they defective, what are the codes?
When it dies whats missing fuel or spark or both?
Idle air control valve
TPS sensor
Crankshaft position sensor."
Why, were they defective, what are the codes?
When it dies whats missing fuel or spark or both?
#7
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If I touch two of the wires from the cps harness together (the ones that are stripped and frayed) the engine sputters and dies. I was 100% sure that this was the problem until I wrapped them good with elec tape and made sure they werent crossing, then it died again after running for a while...
The wierd thing is, when it sputters it will rev quite high after almost dying and kind of catch itself and keep running, then dies shortly thereafter. But will start right up again and run fine for a short while then die again.
Im not sure if its losing spark or fuel how would I pinpoint this?
Edit: it does not throw a check engine light. And I dont have a scan tool to pull codes. Id take it to an auto parts store to get them scanned but it has and will leave me stuck on the side of the road.
Last edited by AZSnake98; 12-08-2013 at 01:29 PM.
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#10
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Year: 2000
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Anyway you can get a pressure reading while this event is occurring... The symptoms give me a feeling it's a fuel starvation issue... Possible plugged up filter, or failing pump... There is a volume test ya can run... Ya disconnect at the fuel rail and place the hose into a large jar or jug... Turn fuel pump on for a certain amount of time... Then ya measure the amount ya have in the jug...
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Anyway you can get a pressure reading while this event is occurring... The symptoms give me a feeling it's a fuel starvation issue... Possible plugged up filter, or failing pump... There is a volume test ya can run... Ya disconnect at the fuel rail and place the hose into a large jar or jug... Turn fuel pump on for a certain amount of time... Then ya measure the amount ya have in the jug...
Keep the ideas coming guys lets get this thing fixed!
#13
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
If I touch two of the wires from the cps harness together (the ones that are stripped and frayed) the engine sputters and dies. I was 100% sure that this was the problem until I wrapped them good with elec tape and made sure they werent crossing, then it died again after running for a while...
Were those wires fried at all? Any melted insulation?
If so, just wrapping them is probably not good enough. You should trace back to good, solid wire and replace the bad stuff.
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Edit: has anyone ever just deleted that stupid harness and hardwired the cps directly in? Where the wires are jacked on mine is RIGHT at the harness so re wrapping them was a pain in the ***.
Last edited by AZSnake98; 12-09-2013 at 06:31 PM.
#15
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Year: 2000
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If ya do that way then I'd get some sort of loom cover to put em in for protection... I have often found it not too bad to just open the existing loom up and then splice in new wire to replace the damaged areas... I like to use the water proof heat shrink tubing as it prevents corrosion from occurring later on... Then just put the loom back in order and ya should be set for life...
If it is a failing pump or filter issue then it will progressively get worse till it no longer "fires back up" after stalling and it will occur more frequently as well...
If it is a failing pump or filter issue then it will progressively get worse till it no longer "fires back up" after stalling and it will occur more frequently as well...