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'00 Engine shuts off.....

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Old 12-13-2019, 10:42 PM
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I am kind of just taking a wild guess here with an idea to try:

Mechanics have this thing they do called a 'jiggle test'. You basically go around to all of the connectors and different components attempting to reproduce the symptoms by grabbing hold of and jiggling the wires, connectors and at the different sections in the main wiring harness. You may be surprised to hear how often doing something this elementary.. how it actually ends up leading to solve problems which were otherwise becoming very difficult to find by way of other means. Especially, sometimes for in cases similar to what you've got going on. How the stalling issue appears to be related somehow to when you are busy doing the work of plowing snow, and when it recurs to happen as you are shifting into the reverse gear by moving the vehicle and engine weight front to back like you said it happened.

One location to check is at the PCM - C1, C2, and C3 connectors. These can sometimes produce the exact same type of stalling problems like you have...
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Old 12-14-2019, 03:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 00cherok
Check engine never went out.
Can you explain this? Do you mean it never came ON? If it is on, can you check the code?

Got a mulitimeter?
Old 12-14-2019, 06:37 AM
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Default Crank sensors throttle sensor

CPS tps, do not use auto zone cps or tps as they have smaller electrical pins then stock, you can use them but you'll have to twist the pins to make them contact the connector effectively , instead use OEM parts on these particular items...same with all the other important sensors even the injectors if you have a misfire on any of those connections twist the pins slightly for a better connection. But your symptoms are definitely tps related as I've had this issue before driving in snow, all of the sudden loses power and to restart it needs a very small hair of gas pedal, inconceivably small amt of gas pedal to match the engine idle air fuel mix and low idle when warm or it wont idle at all if theres a lot of strain on the accessories ... I find these jeeps also get short circuits in the right rear fender and over the motor, the injector harness can melt together if your header pipe leaks from getting wet, short circuits can disrupt even the cps signal.
Old 12-14-2019, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Noah911
I am kind of just taking a wild guess here with an idea to try:

Mechanics have this thing they do called a 'jiggle test'. You basically go around to all of the connectors and different components attempting to reproduce the symptoms by grabbing hold of and jiggling the wires, connectors and at the different sections in the main wiring harness. You may be surprised to hear how often doing something this elementary.. how it actually ends up leading to solve problems which were otherwise becoming very difficult to find by way of other means. Especially, sometimes for in cases similar to what you've got going on. How the stalling issue appears to be related somehow to when you are busy doing the work of plowing snow, and when it recurs to happen as you are shifting into the reverse gear by moving the vehicle and engine weight front to back like you said it happened.

One location to check is at the PCM - C1, C2, and C3 connectors. These can sometimes produce the exact same type of stalling problems like you have...
Good ideas. Now to find the PCM. Never had issues like these with vehicles.

Originally Posted by Dave51
Can you explain this? Do you mean it never came ON? If it is on, can you check the code?

Got a mulitimeter?
The closest code reader is 25 miles away unless one of my buds has one. The check engine lite stayed on after replacing the ASD...... I do have a multi meter...

Originally Posted by EvilJeepxj
CPS tps, do not use auto zone cps or tps as they have smaller electrical pins then stock, you can use them but you'll have to twist the pins to make them contact the connector effectively , instead use OEM parts on these particular items...same with all the other important sensors even the injectors if you have a misfire on any of those connections twist the pins slightly for a better connection. But your symptoms are definitely tps related as I've had this issue before driving in snow, all of the sudden loses power and to restart it needs a very small hair of gas pedal, inconceivably small amt of gas pedal to match the engine idle air fuel mix and low idle when warm or it wont idle at all if theres a lot of strain on the accessories ... I find these jeeps also get short circuits in the right rear fender and over the motor, the injector harness can melt together if your header pipe leaks from getting wet, short circuits can disrupt even the cps signal.
I'm getting my electrical parts from Chrysler. TPS is very expensive. ASD wasn't. The problem does seem to occur when the engine is warm while working it. Going down the road just driving it's fine...

I'll look into the harnesses too. But, going down the road I havent had and issue yet. If there was an exposed wire I would think it wouldn't matter how I used it..

I could finish cleaning up my drive and I bet it would run fine for most, if not all of it...
Old 12-14-2019, 12:50 PM
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I also agree with some of the others with it sounding like it could be an issue happening with the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CkPS). It is just a little strange how it only seems to occur when you are using the Jeep busy with plowing the snow.

I was thinking there is probably going to be a lot of snow-type of debris, etc... that is going to end up being knocked around underneath of your Jeep. This is likely to come into contact with the undercarriage of your Jeep while you are plowing the snow like that, you know? Maybe this has something to do with it?

With this in mind. What would be able to have such an effect on the CkPS to cause the Jeep to stall? I have seen it several times now.. One of the oxygen sensor wires as being a main culprit found to cause similar effects to occur with the proper functioning of the CkPS. The oxygen sensor wires are known to develop faults. They are located on the rather harsh undercarriage environment of the Jeep. Your Jeep being used as a plow Jeep does not really help out their case too much any either.. If snow, ice, and frozen road grime is getting kicked and sent up to hit the oxygen sensor wires in certain ways? This would make sense to me why it happens more often mainly just when you are using the Jeep to plow the snow. You could be moving and bumping the oxygen sensor wires around in certain ways while running over and going through the snow, and this may cause them to short out during the process. This may have a direct effect on the CkPS to cut-out, and this would stall the Jeep?

If this is the case, as intermittent problems usually are.. it could present as being a tough one to chase down. You could check for voltage at the CkPS sensor. If you see normal values when you first check at the CkPS sensor? You could leave the voltmeter hooked up at the CkPS sensor in order to see constant continual readings. You could try jiggling all of the oxygen sensor wires around, to see what happens to the voltage reading at the CkPS while doing that...

Last edited by Noah911; 12-14-2019 at 12:55 PM.
Old 12-14-2019, 07:20 PM
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Good point on the oxy sensors. My exhaust is shot. Rusted really good. Muffler is starting to leak, but it's not loud. Still want to install a new exhaust with the 2 sensors..

Friend had a code reader, 2 codes..
P0340 - Cam sensor
P1391 - intermittent Loss of CMP or CKP

I went to the cam sensor and wiggled wires, no change. I even unplugged the connector while it was running, kinda by accident, nothing changed except the CEL came back on obviously. I see the cap can be changed on the sensor. It looks like that's where the distributor was located on older units. I was thinking about changing the cap and see if my issue gets fixed, like changing a distributor cap. If not, should I change the whole unit and/or the CPS? Can one be narrowed down over the other?
I didn't screw anything up by disconnecting the cam sensor plug when running?

Thanks as always.....
Old 12-15-2019, 01:16 AM
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Default Short circuits symptoms

One way to know you have short circuits is you get rough idle no matter how many parts are new, shorts disrupt every sensor, the burning smell is your only clue usually but you'll sometimes get lights turning on that shouldn't like reverse lights come on instead of the brake lights,the main fuse may have blew a long time ago and someone just bolted the wires together where the main fuse should be on the front of the fuse box or your radio might shut off randomly while hitting bumps. I just know that the idle air control is run with the throttle sensor and if the throttle sensor doesnt sense its idling it wont click on for the hydraulic pump to run your plow but if you also have shorts in the harness you could be buying parts for symptoms that could be nothing but electrical work .You wont be able to see if the injector harness is melted until you unwrap it but a plow truck is going to see a lot of snow and water so I bet it is a cracked header pipe and melted harness , just as much as it could be a short in the right rear quarter behind the rear wheel just over rot spot that develops behind the wheel where the harness can be exposed to sand and salt and be vibrated on the highway until worn through .
Old 12-15-2019, 04:42 AM
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Originally Posted by 00cherok
..... I do have a multi meter...
Old 12-15-2019, 05:08 AM
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Keep in mind that you want to be testing during a period of no start. I'd be looking for a thermally-sensitive CKS.
Old 12-15-2019, 10:54 PM
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the Crankshaft Position Sensor is on top of the bell housing of the transmission, and it's kind of a bear to change out....only 2 bolts but you need about 2-3 feet of socket extensions and to be very careful not to lose a bolt down that hole.
Old 12-16-2019, 08:55 AM
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Here's my crank sensor. I see there's grime on it that will help heat it up,I assume. Haven't found the connector. I believe it's on the passenger side. But it joins a wire loom that splits off. Havent traced it yet...
Old 12-16-2019, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 00cherok
Here's my crank sensor. I see there's grime on it that will help heat it up,I assume. Haven't found the connector. I believe it's on the passenger side. But it joins a wire loom that splits off. Havent traced it yet...
How did you even get a shot of that?
I replaced mine blind from underneath. LOL.
If I remember correctly the connector comes down from one of the engine harnesses on the driver's side.
My experience with what I believe to be thermal failure of my CPS in my '00.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/cut...riving-241745/
Old 12-16-2019, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Ralph77
How did you even get a shot of that?
I replaced mine blind from underneath. LOL.
If I remember correctly the connector comes down from one of the engine harnesses on the driver's side.
My experience with what I believe to be thermal failure of my CPS in my '00.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/cut...riving-241745/
Just leaned over the fender and zoomed in. I may be able to use a wrench and take it out from the engine bay. There are no wires coming up from the sensor. It appears they may be headed to the passsenger side somewhere... Mine never dies while running down the road. Or idling forever, just when I drop the plow...
Old 12-16-2019, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Ralph77
?
I replaced mine blind from underneath. LOL.
If I remember correctly the connector comes down from one of the engine harnesses on the driver's side.
x2^. I saw a video online saying you can do it from up top from the engine bay, but there was no way on my '01. I did it from underneath with about a million extensions...lol. Also used a clamp light to illuminate the area as best as possible. Get a Mopar or OEM replacement, don't go cheap on this part. Good luck.
Old 12-16-2019, 09:31 AM
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It's on the forward transmission linkage bracket.


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