I am looking to purchase an XJ, 2001. While I have a question concerning the 01 models. I can't express this enough that I am very mechanically inept, but I would like to learn how to fix this 2001 instead of having to spend money at a mechanic. While I have been reading the forums I have come across the thread concerning what to look for in an XJ. The thing that concerns me most is the head cast that can crack. If I do encounter this problem what would I be able to do to fix it? Should a complete amateur with limited tools attempt to try to fix this if it happens? How would I be able to fix it?

The other thing I want to mention is while I know this is mostly an offroading forum, I plan to keep this Jeep stock. I don't plan to offroad this Cherokee unless I need to. The only thing I would do to make this considered for light trails would be to get A/T tires. Other than that I would just daily drive this without offroading. The only other thing I would do to this Jeep would be to install an aftermarket sound system. I love the audio hobby more than I am concerned about for its offroad capabilities. I live in the northeast of the USA so I get a winter, sometimes.

The Jeep I am going to be looking at this weekend is a 01 XJ with 180k, automatic 4.0. The person who is selling this Jeep said that they had driven it from California to Connecticut, multiple times. I don't know if this is true but if this XJ is a west coast Jeep then I don't think major rust. But then again until I look at it on Saturday I won't know for sure. On Saturday I know to look for leaks, checking fluids, and the checklist I saw on the forum.

 

Welcome, Tim!

The cure is to replace the head. New ones are available, and they are superior to the original. Yes, I think you can do it. There are how-to videos on YouTube. Maybe look some of them up to get an idea of what is required before you jump in.

But if you can turn a wrench, you can replace a head.

Hey, there are lots of us here who do not do any serious off-roading! As for tires, there are a lot of good ones available. Between my sons and I, we have 5 vehicles with the Kumho AT or HT tires. They have been called the best kept secret in AT tires, and I agree. Every bit as capable as the better known brands, but cheaper.

I even have their all-season tire on my family van, and they are terrific.

 

An XJ is a great platform to learn to wrench. I have been able to do a lot o major repairs on the two XJs(98 and 99) I have, in my garage.I have put 2.5" suspension lifts on both. Replaced the exhaust system on both (just redid the 98 with a stainless one this morning, cost ~$200) with basic tools. Have dropped the transmission to replace the input seal, replaced a blown motor, replaced a sagging headliner, all with basic tools. A head replacement is a great place to start. The only tricky part is getting the exhaust manifold bolts out. This forum is great for reading about any kind of mechanical project and has a lot of pictures.
The newest XJ is 20 years old now. Lot's of parts wear out, suspension, alternator, power steering pump, water pump, radiator, brakes etc. They are all doable with a basic set of tools and a rental tool here or there (ball joint press, steering wheel puller). I have even gone to replacing AC systems on XJs with a compressor and a couple of tools from harbor freight. Once you go through the major systems, they are really trouble free and easy to maintain. Avoid rust and anything is easily repairable on these. The exhaust I replaced this morning was a total of ~4 hours out and back in. Would have been quicker if my exhaust expander tool had been borked up from the last time I used it. Should have done stainless the last time I replaced it (4 years ago) and wouldn't had to replace it this soon.
180k is not really high for these. Check the suspension bushings. If they look worn and are orginal, that will be a project you will nee to do sooner rather than later to avoid death wobble.

 

Agreed with Mark here.... yes experience helps...but replacing a head isn't rocket science. If you just do your research first to know exactly how to do it step by step you should be just fine. Our old 4.0s are pretty basic motors design-wise.

 

I would expect the head to be cracked already at 180K Mi. The best way to diagnose a cracked head is by sending the oil out for analysis. Both my 00' and 01' Cherokee's 0331 heads cracked right at 100K Mi. A TUPY head is dirt cheap from the salvage yard, like $50. Drop it off at your local machine shop for cleaning and a resurface. New head bolts, head gasket, manifold gasket, thermostat housing gasket and a day or two off from work, you're golden. Special tools for the job you might want to have are a shop vac for cleaning the cylinders and lifter galley of debris, 2 3/4"x11" sanding block and assortment of sand paper up to 1000 grit, razor blades, breaker bar, 1/2" drive 12 point 1/2" deep socket, WD-40 & carb cleaner, Thread Sealant w/ PTFE, ARP fastener lube, coolant, motor oil, & various socket extensions for the manifold bolts.

 

Also besides mechanical condition... the #1 thing you need to look at is rust as the XJ is not a traditional body/frame construction. If that's not solid you might want to pass on it. It doesn't do much good if the engine runs smoother than a hot knife through butter if you've got major rust issues especially in key support areas. Everything is fixable at a cost...but you don't want to go too nuts with it.

 

Thank you all for the replies. For the rust issue, where would the absolute critical places for me to check? As for the cracked head, if it is cracked could I drive it anyway until I get it fixed, or would that not be advisable?

My other option that just popped up for an XJ would be a 95 5 speed, one owner with 175k on it. I am not sure how badly this XJ is but I am told that they drive 30 mins one way and 30 mins back daily. But then again, this is in CT, all its XJ life.

 

Some late model xjs have three catalytic converters, two in the engine bay. this can cause a lot of heat problems, and three cats are very pricey verses one should they need replacement.

yes you can drive with the cracked head, but you are at greater risk of catstrophic failure.
you end up diluting the motor oil with water, that can destroy your bearings, if too much water leaks. that is primary concern. if your crack is bad enough to cause boil over and over heating do to water loss, the bearings may already have damage.

so be careful. if the oil appears froathy, or foamy, then stop driving for sure!

 

If the head is cracked you STOP NOW. The more you run it, the more you risk trashing the rest of the engine. Coolant and bearings are not good friends.

But don't sweat it. It's not guaranteed to crack. Many don't. In fact, unless it's been overheated, it's not likely to crack.

 

What you want to get is a Factory Service Manual. It's got everything you need, to learn about repairs on your XJ, step by step. It also has testing procedures etc.
It's written in such a way, it initially made me think it was for people that hardly know anything about cars. Like myself back in the day.

Find a download. Not sure if Cruiser54's website has one for your year, might want to check there.

 

the most important thing is to get entirely underneath the vehicle and spend 5 minutes looking for rust, take a blanket and torch

around windscreens is also a bad area

if there is only very small amounts, you can bargain the price down

If there is significant rust, that looks like it would be hard to fix, then you need to think again