b-dub

flicking it is less than one turn and it has more resistance when cold.

anyways I went out and saw that it had a flat the other night so I've been pretty bummed out.. (I'm broke this week I had just filled the tank up as well)

good thing it has a fullsized spare .. and I found a hitch lying under it. so I guess that makes up for me having to get the tire patched.

anyways I'm getting the temperature switch today I had the one in stock put on hold. I'll also grab a rad cap I'll change that before putting the clutch on since it's a lot cheaper.. if that doesn't work then the clutch will be next and if that doesn't work.. well then it's going to the shop

I'm starting to wonder if it may be the water pump,. I'm not sure what's involved there so Not sure if I want to tackle doing it myself.

b-dub

EDIT- FML ... I thought for sure the melted sensor was my issue (and why the hell is it right up against the head where you can't get a socket on it!? that was a PITA... anyways still no luck.. it's going in the shop (not at my expense)

b-dub

well I have functioning a/c (fan does not kick on with a/c so it's on a toggle)

temp gun shows normal had it on a scanner and it showed normal of course it wasn't driven more than 6 miles non stop before testing. Yet I drove it home 14 miles non stop 55mph witht he aux fan on and my coolant tank was filled to the top spitting coolant out and so was my rad cap,

I tried to burp the system with the front end off the ground a doo 3 feet while squeezing the hoses and the cap off and heat blasting.

rad cap, both temp sensors, t-stat good. I'm having mech fan done and it's still at a shop.. I'm not sure whats up.. can the waterpump be slipping at rpm? or is that possible,

freegdr

Dang though you were fixed.... Belt can be loose causing water pump not to turn. You say its spitting out coolant but are you over heating b4 this happens. System will automaticly push out air .

b-dub

That's what the shop is trying to figure out. The gauge is not reading right but it wasn't spraying coolant on them. I think I had a lot of air from when I did the tstat since it sidnt take but 1/2 gallon to fill up

freegdr

You gotta let engine run then fill after thermostat opens top off system.

b-dub

derp.. I feel like a dumb.... I replaced the rad cap again and pressure dropped coolant level lowered drastically .. No more locking saftey valve caps for me.. I guess I had it on wrong it now has a basic cap on it... anyways I drove it to a trusted shop (after picking it up from where it was sitting for the past 2 weeks) it didn't get over half temp until 6 miles in.. by 10 miles in it was in between half and the mark before red..

this was with the fan on and the heat on high.. but my coolant level is also low now..

I'm having a complete flush done and going to throw that fan on. I'm getting one of those cheap switch plated to replace my ashtray to mount a couple temp gauges in.

Hopefully this will have a happy ending this week.

b-dub

new rad going in due to build up of nearly nearly 20 year old and 200k miles of crud.. of course went ahead an kept the new clutch fan since I had it.. extra insurance of the old one going out since It's unknown how old it is.. and just to have a little more peace of mind.. new waterpump..

so with new rad and pump plus labor on it all and the fan looking at 300 tops... I''m happy. He also agrees my gauge is reading off but it was still obviously overheating.

Full tuneup of cooling system makes me feel better.. next I'm doing rear bearings and checking other stuff that won't be replaced by the lift I'm wanting.

Smockmock

Not sure if I missed something or not, but will the electric fan at all if AC doesn't work? I know at beginning of thread it was mentioned that AC doesn't work and at end now it does, was wondering if that changed anything cuz mine doesn't have functioning AC and I wasn't gonna fix it, but if I need it for cooling system to function properly I may have to look into that too

playbass

The efan is also supposed to come on when certain temps are reached. For most years I think that temp is 217*, but for some of the later models (00-01) it comes on at 223*.

b-dub

My ac started working after the coolant sensor for the gauge (on the back of the head) was replaced. However my efan still didn't come on by itself after changing both coolant sensors relay and checking wiring. I assume there is just an overlooked short somewhere. I have it wired to a switch with an inline fuse.

My cooling problem was my radiator.

b-dub

just an update

running perfectly fine. a/c working perfectly fine. gauge never gets to 210 now. with or without the e-fan kicked on. can cruise around all day with a/c on high and e-fan on and it is hardly under 210.. granted I think my failsafe tstat is locked open from overheating so I'll be replacing it soon since it's running too cool all the time... Lol

couldn't be happier and loving the xj Thanks for everyones input and thank you freegdr for the endless patience. I became a supporting member after this

freegdr

Sounds like shorts in harness in this area temp sender has nothing to do with fan..might be on to something here...