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1985 cherokee 2.8l iac issue?

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Old 09-19-2012 | 10:44 PM
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Default 1985 cherokee 2.8l iac issue?

Hello everyone, I have a cherokee, 1985 2.8l, 4x4 5spd and I am having a hard time searching for information pertaining to this motor. I am experiencing issues that seem consistent with 4.0 IAC problems (rough idle, poor performance, stumbling, sputtering, etc) and I'm wondering if the 2.8 has an IAC, and specificlly were it is so that i can clean it. Any ideas? so far new sparks wires vacuum inspection (couple of leaks but after repair issues remain). any and all suggestions welcome and appreciated
Old 09-19-2012 | 10:45 PM
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also if this information is in another thread, im sorry to pollute with another thread but ive run numerous searches and had a hard time finding info pertaining to the 2.8l motor
Old 09-19-2012 | 10:47 PM
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Negative ghost rider. That motor is carbureted. It's probably gunked up inside. Also when was the last tune up? You check for vacuum leaks? Fuel filter?
Old 09-19-2012 | 10:50 PM
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vacuum leaks were all adressed, recent fuel filter as part of tune up, the fuel pump however was not replaced.... its a mechanical pump and im not exactly sure were it is or how to go about replacing it
Old 09-19-2012 | 10:51 PM
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Follow fuel line from the carb down. Pretty sure its pass side of the block right up front.
Old 09-19-2012 | 10:52 PM
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what would be the best method of cleaning the carb? im thinking that a gunk issue could certainly hold true in this case
Old 09-19-2012 | 10:54 PM
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2 options.

1 buy a rebuild kit. Study online on rebuilding it spend hours doing it ect

2...... Webber carb!
Old 09-19-2012 | 10:57 PM
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haha just googled it, webber costs almost as much as the jeep did. not sure i want to invest with 265k
Old 09-19-2012 | 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by kellyvan
haha just googled it, webber costs almost as much as the jeep did. not sure i want to invest with 265k
Well mine has 400+k on it lol
And I found for under 400

http://www.thepartsbin.com/guides/je...arburetor.html
Just sayin lol
Old 09-19-2012 | 11:07 PM
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can you think of any other things that might cause such issues? ill buy parts if i need to, but i would like to try any other options first
Old 09-19-2012 | 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by kellyvan
can you think of any other things that might cause such issues? ill buy parts if i need to, but i would like to try any other options first
If the tune up is new.... Carb would be where I go first. You do a compression test?
Old 09-19-2012 | 11:12 PM
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no I havent. I was going to borrow a fuel pressure tester from autozone to eliminate the fuel pump before replacing, i can also grab a tester for that
Old 09-19-2012 | 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by kellyvan
no I havent. I was going to borrow a fuel pressure tester from autozone to eliminate the fuel pump before replacing, i can also grab a tester for that
The carb setups run like 3-10 psi. If compression tests all good rebuild that carb
Old 09-19-2012 | 11:16 PM
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sounds great. thanks for the help, i really want this bad boy running in time for hunting season in 9 days
Old 09-20-2012 | 12:37 PM
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I have owned two 84 Cherokees, three 1985 Cherokees,..I currently have two 84 Cherokees, One with the GM 2.8V6 that has the Rochester 2 Barrel. The mechanical fuel pump on the GM 2.8V6 is located beneath the power steering pump on the Drivers side. My experience with parts store replacement fuel pumps is their quality can vary greatly. The problem I have come across is strange, but legit, and that is they put out to much fuel pressure 5.5+ psi. The Rochester Vari-Jet 2 barrel on these Gm V6s likes around 4.5 to 5 psi at the most. I have solved this problem by installing a fuel pressure regulator in line After the fuel pump, before the carb. You will have the get some barbed fittings, as the factory line from the pump to carb is steel hard line. I used one barbed fitting at the pump, rubber fuel line to a filter, the fuel pressure regulator, then rubber hose to the metal fuel line that I had cut in half, about 8 inches from the carb. It would be a tight bent to make with rubber fuel line to go all the way to the carb, so I used the factory hard metal line the last 8 inches or so going to the carb. This has helped with running to rich due to excessive fuel pressure. RedlineCarbs recommends this if you spend the $359.00 for one of those bad A$$ Weber 38/38 DGEV replacement carbs. Ive been wanting to get one of these for a couple of years now, to see the differance it would make on this Briggs/Stratton, I mean GM 2.8V6. Both barrels open at the same time with the Weber, unlike the Rochester.


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