sometimes when I pumped the break it would help. Not everytime though.

 

Ok my brain just started rethinking. What I did to get my engine out of the 3000 range was to unplug the tps ,,let the engine return to normal then un-plug the IAC

 

possibly sucking vacuum out of motor cause idle change...

 

Try putting the IAC in the closed position and leave it un-plugged,to see how it runs !

 

And which one did you unplug first? The TPS. Imagine that!

Now, let's not get off track. Desertxj206 has some work to do to get his problem solved.

Desert, set the TB butterfly stop screw. Then adjust the TPS on the flat connector side.

 

What size wrench/tool are you using to adjust your IAC?

Do you know the torque ratings in inch-pounds?

 

What?

 

you may resume...lol...

 

I will start by adjusting the set screw, really try to set the Tps and see how it works. I do know that there are no adjustment ability to the iac also.

 

 

First I removed the IAC,but left it plugged in ,then I turn the key on ,without starting the engine. I did this to check the operation of the IAC ,once it was all the way out (under its own power) I reinstalled normally,I did this as a trouble shooting step. Having 3g launches at stop lights is not fun if unintended . I'm saying to un-plug the IAC just to make the jeep safe to drive.

 

I will be re-adjusting the butterfly, resetting the Tps. And checking.my grounds in about 30 min. I will let everyone know if these steps helped.

 

Ok here's what's going on:

I started out by adjusting the butterfly to have just enough clearance for a thin price of paper to slide through.

Adjusted Tps accordingly.

Cleaned the ground on the firewall, sandpapered the finish to get a good clean connection. Ground is tight.

Now here's the problem.

I believe I am using my meter right to check the ohms reading on the connection at the flat 3 wire Tps connector. (Pictures are attatched to farther are what I am seeing.)

My meter is set on the 200 mark in the ohms section. When touching the meter prongs together I get about .8-.9 reading. Ok so I know that I have to factor that number in to the resistance.

When I connect the black probe to my battery ground and the red to wire harness side of the 3 prong connector my meter didn't read anything at first. Then I turned ignition on to see if it did anything. The ohms spiked to around 175.

I shut the ignition off, went and re tried to test ohms. My numbers were around 44. When I wiggled and messed with the wireing harness on the fire wall the numbers went all over the place. The were all the way up to 197 at one point. So from wiggling all the harness I get different numbers.

So what do I do next? Is there a bare wire or something? Do I need to rip apart the c101 and clean it or what?

 

Classic symptoms of poor crimps in the ground circuit that includes not only the TPS, but the CTS, IAT, and MAP. Seen it many times before. Whaddya think your ECU thinks of those signals? This can be fixed quite easily. You don't have a C101 in 1990.

You used this test, right?
Cruiser’s Renix Sensor Ground Test
Set your meter to measure Ohms. Be sure the key is in the OFF position. Using the positive (red) lead of your ohmmeter, probe the B terminal of the flat 3 wire connector of the TPS . The letters are embossed on the connector itself.
Touch the black lead of your meter to the negative battery post. Wiggle the wiring harness where it runs parallel to the valve cover and also near the MAP sensor mounted on the firewall. If you have an 87 or 88 with the C101 connector mounted on the firewall above the brake booster, wiggle it, too.
You want to see as close to 0 ohms of resistance as possible. And when wiggling the harnesses/connectors the resistance value should stay low. If there is a variance in the values when wiggling the wires, you have a poor crimp/connection in the wiring harness or a poor ground at the engine dipstick tube stud. On 87 and 88 models, you could have a poor connection at the C101 connector as well.
Revised 05/03/2012

 

Here is my write-up on repairing the grounds:

Find your Intake Air Temp sensor. It's the sensor just to the rear of the throttle body, has 2 wires, and screws into the intake manifold.
Where it's connector plugs into the harness you will see that one of the wires on the harness side　is brown with a white stripe. Follow the brown with white stripe wire back into the harness. You'll have to open up the split-loom plastic sheathing to follow it. It will come to a splice with 2 other brown with white wires with duct tape over them. They're from the TPS and the CTS. The 3 wires will be　 spliced to a single wire headed toward the C101 connector if you have an 87 or 88. If you have an 89 or 90, you do not have the C101 bulkhead connector.
　
Now go to the MAP sensor. Follow the brown with white wire into the harness from there. You will find a splice with 2 more brown with white wires with duct tape over them. At the splice you will find the 3 wires connected to a single brown with white wire going toward the C101, or just along the firewall towards the engine if you have an 89 or 90. Along with the MAP sensor that you traced, they are the ECU sensor ground port and the diagnostic connector on the passenger inner fender.
　
You now have 2 sets of 3 brown with white wires, one near the firewall and one near the engine.
　
Cut the splices out of each set of wires eliminating not only the crappy factory splices, but also the single wire between them. Bring both sets of 3 wires together. Solder the 2 sets of wires together and insulate them properly with tape or shrink tubing.
　
Zip-tie up your new sensor loom to allow for engine movement.　I prefer to cover it with some new split-loom or wrap it neatly with electrical tape when done.
　
　
Revised 03-09-12