1988 I6 4.0 stalls when reaching operating temp
#16
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Schaumburg IL
Posts: 212
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Cruiser,
I need to apologize. I have been under immense stress lately and I'm close to busting a gasket in my head, but that isn't an excuse for saying what I did above.
I do have the health issues mentioned above and struggle with that and a few other things, including not being able to handle this heat.
I will try to get my 17 year old son to help with this. He is skinnier than me and can get under there better.
If anyone else has suggestions or ideas or have change this sensor and have some techniques, please keep it coming.
Thanks all for being so forthcoming and helpful.
I need to apologize. I have been under immense stress lately and I'm close to busting a gasket in my head, but that isn't an excuse for saying what I did above.
I do have the health issues mentioned above and struggle with that and a few other things, including not being able to handle this heat.
I will try to get my 17 year old son to help with this. He is skinnier than me and can get under there better.
If anyone else has suggestions or ideas or have change this sensor and have some techniques, please keep it coming.
Thanks all for being so forthcoming and helpful.
Swivel socket attachments are a lifesaver for this job
Good luck!
#17
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,971
Received 1,559 Likes
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1,263 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Cruiser,
I need to apologize. I have been under immense stress lately and I'm close to busting a gasket in my head, but that isn't an excuse for saying what I did above.
I do have the health issues mentioned above and struggle with that and a few other things, including not being able to handle this heat.
I will try to get my 17 year old son to help with this. He is skinnier than me and can get under there better.
If anyone else has suggestions or ideas or have change this sensor and have some techniques, please keep it coming.
Thanks all for being so forthcoming and helpful.
I need to apologize. I have been under immense stress lately and I'm close to busting a gasket in my head, but that isn't an excuse for saying what I did above.
I do have the health issues mentioned above and struggle with that and a few other things, including not being able to handle this heat.
I will try to get my 17 year old son to help with this. He is skinnier than me and can get under there better.
If anyone else has suggestions or ideas or have change this sensor and have some techniques, please keep it coming.
Thanks all for being so forthcoming and helpful.
#18
Newbie
Thread Starter
Wow, 5 minutes, that's impressive. Thanks for wanting to help. I ended up taking it to my mechanic since my dad sent me just enough to cover that bill.
#19
Newbie
Thread Starter
But, I got the CPS replaced by my mechanic, as mentioned in the previous post. He also replaced the Idle Air Motor, he said it was not actuating at all.
More in my next post that will serve as a status update.
#20
Newbie
Thread Starter
Status update
Alright, so I go to pick up the Heep, and the mechanic said that the old CPS was reading open when he was trying to ohm it with his multimeter. So he changed it, and when they tried to adjust the idle, they found that the idle air motor wasn't working right or at all, so they replaced it and got the idle working.
According to them, it idled fine and didn't die going around the block one time until he went over a bump. Then it died. He said he couldn't get it to even start until he wiggled the ignition switch, then it would start up.
He suggested that I replace the ignition switch.
So I get into the car and try to start it, and sure it enough, it tries to get going, and as soon as I let go of the key when it sounds like its firing on all cylinders, it died. So I wiggled the ignition key and tried again and it runs fine.
I drove it home, about two blocks, and it didn't really get hot, and I was tired and hot myself, so I let it go, and I really don't know for sure if the original problem is fixed.
However, I tried to start it this morning, and the same thing. So I went and got a new ignition switch, and after a little bit of struggle, I got the old one out. What I discovered wasn't very pleasant.
The blue connector on the wiring harness was melted around the brownish wire, and it looked like the switch itself had some overheated areas around the contact that this wire connects to.
Upon pulling the connectors off, I concluded there is enough insulation left to isolate the contacts, but I pulled all the wires out of the blue connector one by one and inspected them, and ended up crimping down the contacts just a tad as they fit way too loosely on the switch contacts. I didn't do the same on the black connector as it was getting hot outside, and I wanted to get it going, so I reassembled and mounted everything except for the lower dash cover, and tried to start it, and now it acts like its not getting fuel or ignition.
So I pulled it back apart and connected the old switch back up, but this time I tried it by actuating the switch while it was hanging from the harness, taking the rod and tumbler out of the picture. Still not firing, and I ran down the battery trying, wiggling all the wires, including the ones in the black connector.
Unfortunately the neighbor's house A/C unit is right next to me, so I cannot hear whether or not the fuel valve and pump are turning on or not, but when in the different positions, like accessory setting, the blower fan runs, radio comes on, etc.
I'm pretty sure I reconnected all the electronic boxes that are mounted to the dash cover. Any ideas why it won't start?
I'm baffled again
Also, right next to the ignition switch, and above the headlight dimmer switch, it a cable or rod guide tube that is mounted to the forward mount bolt along with both switches. Any idea what that is for?
Anyway, if you can think of anything I may have inadvertently disconnected that I don't see, or have any ideas what to do next, please chime in.
According to them, it idled fine and didn't die going around the block one time until he went over a bump. Then it died. He said he couldn't get it to even start until he wiggled the ignition switch, then it would start up.
He suggested that I replace the ignition switch.
So I get into the car and try to start it, and sure it enough, it tries to get going, and as soon as I let go of the key when it sounds like its firing on all cylinders, it died. So I wiggled the ignition key and tried again and it runs fine.
I drove it home, about two blocks, and it didn't really get hot, and I was tired and hot myself, so I let it go, and I really don't know for sure if the original problem is fixed.
However, I tried to start it this morning, and the same thing. So I went and got a new ignition switch, and after a little bit of struggle, I got the old one out. What I discovered wasn't very pleasant.
The blue connector on the wiring harness was melted around the brownish wire, and it looked like the switch itself had some overheated areas around the contact that this wire connects to.
Upon pulling the connectors off, I concluded there is enough insulation left to isolate the contacts, but I pulled all the wires out of the blue connector one by one and inspected them, and ended up crimping down the contacts just a tad as they fit way too loosely on the switch contacts. I didn't do the same on the black connector as it was getting hot outside, and I wanted to get it going, so I reassembled and mounted everything except for the lower dash cover, and tried to start it, and now it acts like its not getting fuel or ignition.
So I pulled it back apart and connected the old switch back up, but this time I tried it by actuating the switch while it was hanging from the harness, taking the rod and tumbler out of the picture. Still not firing, and I ran down the battery trying, wiggling all the wires, including the ones in the black connector.
Unfortunately the neighbor's house A/C unit is right next to me, so I cannot hear whether or not the fuel valve and pump are turning on or not, but when in the different positions, like accessory setting, the blower fan runs, radio comes on, etc.
I'm pretty sure I reconnected all the electronic boxes that are mounted to the dash cover. Any ideas why it won't start?
I'm baffled again
Also, right next to the ignition switch, and above the headlight dimmer switch, it a cable or rod guide tube that is mounted to the forward mount bolt along with both switches. Any idea what that is for?
Anyway, if you can think of anything I may have inadvertently disconnected that I don't see, or have any ideas what to do next, please chime in.
Last edited by Riccccardo; 06-30-2013 at 09:14 AM.
#22
Newbie
Thread Starter
If there is anything I can do to help with my limited means, please PM me.
As for the Jeep, is your insurance providing you with replacement? Even if the drive train is good, they would have to send it to salvage, wouldn't they?
If the insurance isn't going to cover the replacement cost of your Jeep, are you trying to sell off the parts to recoup at least a little?
If I had the space to store it and then part it out, I would try to ask my family for help to scrape together some funds, but my wife would kill me if I had another Heep sitting in our already full driveway.
Wife and I had thought about moving to the country, and if I had a back acre where I could store it, I would even let you store it and we could part it out together, until all the good parts been used.
Anyway, let me know if I can help somehow.
Last edited by Riccccardo; 06-30-2013 at 09:12 AM.
#24
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