JacobCanale

Hey y’all.

I’ve got a 1989 Jeep Cherokee Renix that is cranking but no start. Has no spark at the plugs, so I assume that’s the problem. Cps was replaced twice, new battery, new distributor cap and rotor, new coil. Getting power all the way up to the distributor, nothing after that. Could the distributor itself be faulty? The rotor is spinning when it cranks but not very fast. Can send a video. Thanks for any help

Chick-N-Picker

When is the last time you cleaned your two main grounds? One is on the dip stick tube and the other is at the back of the head on the driver's side.

This is just a starting point and if they haven't been cleaned lately it can only do good to clean them. Others will probably chime in with more specific questions but don't ignore these grounds. They control a lot of stuff.

cruiser54

www.cruiser54.com
Tips 1,3,4, and 5.

lawsoncl

Are you saying you've got spark at the distributor center, but it's not getting to the plugs? That sounds like a bad cap/rotor.

JacobCanale

Sorry for such a late response. I went and did all of what you suggested, still nothing. Refreshed grounds, nothing. Cleaned and refreshed receptacles, nothing. Coil tests good and is getting power all the way up to the rotor. Not seeming to get any voltage from the spark plug wires when cranking. Could it be that the rotor is not spinning fast enough for power to jump? I honestly don’t even know what to do anymore.

cruiser54

The rotor might be bad.

JacobCanale

forgot to mention I replaced that too. Really ripping my hairs out here haha. Could it be a bad icm even with power at the coil?

cruiser54

How are you checking for spark?

I've yet to see a reliable test for the coil/ICM that is reliable. How are you testing?

JacobCanale

Checking for spark the usual way, pull the plug and hold it close to the engine. Only way im checking the coil is with a multimeter. Says it has 12v on the tip of it, but not sure if that means anything. Gonna pick up a used icm tonight and see if swapping does anything

cruiser54

Good plan

Saudade

Well, you can go the same with the center lead coming from the coil. Be careful. Same voltage but 6x the sparks. You said you had a new coil already.

Is your distributor properly indexed? (I know that would still spark but at the wrong time.)

BlueRidgeMark

Okay, to review, we have a new CPS, coil, cap, and rotor, correct?

Yes, the distributor itself could be faulty. The speed of the rotor will affect WHEN and WHERE the spark is delivered, but it won't affect whether or not it can jump the gap, If it's not spinining at the correct speed and timing, you aren't going anywhere.

You can't post a video here directly, but if you post it to YouTube, you can post a link here. I think it would be helpful.

djgrayxj

Note from DJ

More clarification needed!

In your post 9 you stated that you were checking for spark by [“Checking for spark the usual way, pull the plug and hold it close to the engine”].

If you are only holding the spark plug close to the engine; you will never see any spark that way; the metal part of spark plug must be making good contact with a good metal grounded part of the engine.

Now if you are talking about the protective part of the spark plug wring that slides over the spark plug that you are holding close to the engine; you need something metal inserted in the protective part of the spark plug wring that is now held close to the engine.

If you are checking for spark this way you need something that has an insulating handle in your hand; if not your body may become the shortest distance for the electricity to travel. This is not a good feeling!
What I use a number two fillips screw driver.

BlueRidgeMark

Good catch, DJ.

lawsoncl

Seeing 12-volts doesn't mean much. In fact you don't want to touch your meter to the coil output when if fires, as you'll likely blow the meter.
Are you getting fuel? Smell gas when cranking or the plugs wet? If not, I'd suspect the crank position sensor (cps).