jonb8

What about that stupid little resister on the drivers side fender well? Doesn't that effect fire Blue?

76ANTHONY

wowowowow, slow down, i know your pissed but between blue and you, you guys will have her fixed.

76ANTHONY

update me here, are we at, it turns over fine but has no spark still? and your getting 12v to the coil but no spark? which wires are you testing for 12v at the coil?

BlueXJ

It reduces the voltage to 8 volts after the engine is running which slows the fuel pupm to accomplish two things, extend pump life and reduce the noise of the pump. The noise is more of a bother to rear seat passengers.

BlueXJ

Have you pulled the dizzy cap? The only thing you have not looked at seems to be the cam position sensor inside the distributor. Hot wire the coil to be certain it is maintaining voltage to the coil. If it still has no spark you have to check the cam position sensor inside the distributor.
CAMshaft Position Sensor / Sync Pulse (Stator) Test
This article is intended to help you diagnose intermittant ignition problems that cannot be attributed to other sensors or the more failure prone Crankshaft Position Sensor. The CAM-shaft position sensor (aka 'stator' or sync pulse generator) lets the ECU know when to pulse the fuel injectors and co-ordinates with the Crankshaft Position Sensor for engine timing.

WARNING!: The term CPS is most often used to describe the CRANKshaft position sensor! Be SURE to get the correct sensor! Both the crank and cam position sensors work together feeding the ECU (computer) information on the engine timing to fire the injectors and maintain engine timing. In the case of the Jeep 4.0L engine: the CAMshaft position sensor is also called the 'sync pulse generator' (or stator) and can be found in the "distributor" while the CRANKshaft position sensor is located on the transmission bellhousing.

Don't be surprised if your counter drone tries to hand you the wrong part as there are several common names in use for the Camshaft Position Sensor:
camshaft position sensor
stator
sync-pulse generator
"...Auto Zone had the (sync signal generator) but they call it a pick-up coil...

Stator Test Procedure
Sync Pulse (Stator) Test: Do NOT disconnect your "distributor" to do this test! Backprobe the connectors by inserting the voltmeter's probes into the connector where the wires enter the connector from the distributor or harness! You'll have to make sure that you have good contact but it's not hard to do... the connector MUST remain connected to do these tests!


While you can check the voltages and continuity with a digital volt meter... you will also need an ANALOG volt meter (with a needle... not digital readout) to check the stator's function.

RENIX TEST PROCEDURE
1)Insert + voltmeter lead into BLUE wire at distributor connector.
2)Insert negative - lead into Gray W/trace wire at dist connector.
3)Set voltmeter to 15vac, turn key on & should show approximately 5.0volts.
4)If there is no voltage present - double check the backprobed leads to ensure good contact.
5)If there is STILL no voltage present; the Factory Service Manual says you need to "Perform vehicle test using DRB II tester. I don't have one. You don't either.
6)At this point, If you DO have voltage then remove / disconnect the ECU (computer).
7)Check continuity between the Blue wire and C-16 at the ECU. - If no continuity: repair harness wire.
8)Check continuity between Gray W/trace and pin C-5 at the ECU. - If no continuity: repair harness wire.
9)Check continuity between Black wire and "ground". - If no continuity: repair harness wire.
While observing analog voltmeter (That's one with a needle, folks! Your average digital meter won't show this...) crank engine & voltmeter needle should fluctuate back & forth while engine is cranking over. This confirms stator in distributor is 'pulsing' correctly and sending signal out for ECU.
10)If there is no sync pulse you will have to replace the stator by removing and dissassembling the "distributor" following the service manual procedure. * - Helpful Hint: Before pulling your distributor... "bump" the engine until the rotor is pointing straight forward and aligned with the side of the engine. That way you'll know where the rotor needs to end up pointing after reassembly.

76ANTHONY

you go blue, with your bad ole self

silkwood

Ok, gonna run down this list. Thanks so much for all the help guys. I am a total dip**** when it comes to anything electrical, but I'm learnin alot here.

jonb8

Thanks blue, I learn something new everyday

76ANTHONY

its not that your a dip**** its just that you've never had to do it, trust me, learn electrical, it'll save ya some cash.. and listen to blue, he knows his stuff....

76ANTHONY

ok now you got me reading darn it...heres what i found.
did you check the coil wire for the correct ohms? should be 250-1000 ohm per inch of wire.

and i've asked before, do you have voltage to the coil itself?

76ANTHONY

i know the coils new but did you check resistance? should be close to zero.

silkwood

Yes, my buddy (the mechanic) put his scanner and voltage meter on it and it tested out fine.

76ANTHONY

is your buddy the mechanic a jeep mechanic or an all around mech? the reason i ask is there differences in all makes and models and this one is different. you have replaced half the elec system and still have the problem. do you have a chiltons or haynes book with you?

rockswealth

I have the exact same problem and we are using a Haynes Manual. Thanks to you all for posting this vital info., I am putting my mechanic on it tomorrow You guys are the bomb.

rockswealth

Hi guys,

Well my jeep is up and running again, after changing everything that needed to be changed we finally have a green light. The thing that seemed
to really work was the cleaning of all the ground connections and replacing the fuse.

Did have a problem with the clutch, really mussy, but fixed that problem
in a unique way. We had to bleed it like you do brakes, but I do not have a bleed screw on my clutch, so my friend had to pull off the clutch cylinder and physically push the rod. And it worked.

My suggestion to anyone experiencing problems with no spark to plugs, check your ground connections, make sure they are all clean and getting really good connection and then check all the fuses.

Good Luck