1990 6 cyl auto. Been a daily driver for two years or so never misses a beat. Will not even click to the ignition switch today. Battery reads, 12.7 on ohms meter, headlights bright, dome lights and buzzer work. When key turns, do not hear fuel pump prime up, blower motor does not work, no wipers, no radio, could not find blown fuse in side panel. Ideas needed, Thank you.

 

My money's on a bad ignition switch on the column.

 

Cruiser, I was hoping you would be around! You have helped me thru the dreaded electrical troubleshooting successfully before! ( I much prefer working with sawzalls and hammers) Question is, other than look for burnt plastic how do I test the part. Then if it is indeed bad, can I bypass it somehow. I will run out and look it over and check back in a few. Thank YOU.

 

well just came in to stop the bleeding. Lotsa sharp edges up under the column. Got the upper screw out, it was actually a hex headed little b------d, and was working feverishly on the lower, when my wrench slipped and I began leaking. My flashlight was dying and the sun is going down so I am giving it up for the evening. I'll be out there at daylight and see what that brings. Thanks again Cruiser!

 

I'm always around. and if you need something, PM me.

 

Always remember this:

 

Sun is just coming up and I am going back after it. Been reading Cruiser's Pink Link while I have coffee. Has me wondering about the negative cable from bat. to block. The insulation is gone on the last 8 inches or so and it is soaked in oil and grime. Did a check with ohms meter from battery to side of block and read 12.4 so I assume my cable, in spite of looking nasty is doing it's job?

 

Should be less than 1 ohm.....

 

"should be less than one ohm" Let's make sure we are thinking together here. My homebrew test was as follows. Ohm meter set at 20, red probe on positive post battery, black probe touched to block and valve cover. Got reading of 12.4- 12.6. Is my test method somehow wrong?

 

You're reading volts with one lead on the positive side of battery, and one on the ground side (The block & valve cover).

An Ohms test is a resistance test... a different setting on your meter. Your reading DC volts, but you want to set it on the symbol that looks like this Ω and test from one end of the cable to the other end of the same cable.

 

Heap o Jeep, just ran out and tested the neg cable as you said. It tested "0". Thank you for that heads up. I am not totally fluent with my multimeter yet.
I'm off to the parts store, hope to be back home in six hours or so. I am taking it that my neg cable passed the test and does not need replaced.

 

The lower the number on resistance, the better but... We're you getting any fluctuation at all? An actual "zero" reading, might have been misinterpreted as an infinite reading. I'm no whiz with a multi meter either, but I've never seen an actual zero.... 0.1 maybe?

 

Fresh back from the parts store. 10:45 am thru 7:45 pm trip time. ugh. Got my new switch though. Heep o Jeep, yes my reading when done as you suggested gave me a true "0" reading when checking from the terminal end to the bolt on block behind oil filter. Is zero an unusual reading when checking like that? Anyway I will be out there at daylight installing the new switch and we will see if I can put this to rest. Many thanks.

 

this is not going well. the "L" rod that moves with the key is in a wrong position in relation to the switch. I would have to force the heck out of it to get it in the slot on the side of my switch. Trying to find a video of this operation but all I come up with is key tumbler replacements. I do not recommend this to those who may be prone to sudden fits of anger. Anyone know where I can get a photo of a switch ***. in working position?

 

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