DFlintstone

I don't have first hand experience but I gather they just fry. As if it's just a section of smaller wire that will go out first protecting the rest.

I'm 6'1", 285 Lbs, and not very flexible. Easy for me to say check for power at the red wire on the ign switch. I'd probably need to remove the seat to actually do it though!

And check for power out on the green)

zim

Okay here is the deal.
Tested all wires coming off ignition relay that have fuseable links by sticking test light thru insulation on the load side of each link. They are all in working order.
Then pulled ignition switch off column, and tested all wires for power. No juice is getting to the switch.
Checked with wiring diagram to see if there is any intteruption between ign. relay and fuse panel on floor board. Could not find any. Fuse panel still has no power to wiper, blower, ign, slots. I am about sure this is my problem, but maybe those slots get powered via the ign.switch, but I seriously doubt it. Thinking about pulling harness loose from fuse panel back to right hand corner below battery and see if something shows up broken. Am also considering shooting this ***** between the headlamps.

DFlintstone

Sheez I feel for you. Maybe PM Cruiser or Freedgr, or someone will chime in.

I'm at a loss. We DO have a harness connector at the firewall, but it's beyond my depth to suggest you go after that. Maybe just take a look at it, see if you can wiggle it?

Bonehead me might just run a long wire from bat pos to that red wire on the ign switch just to see if doing that let's me learn anything. (not necessarily suggesting you do that). Later I'll look anain at those two differing wiring diagrams and see if I can see anything that might help.

zim

My last thought of the day on it was also to run a long hot from battery to the ign. switch also. Just to see what would happen. Can I just totally get rid of the ign switch and go with a starter button? This jeep has no need for a key at all, it may see literally 10 miles of pavement per year. It is 49 miles of two track dirt and then gravel to the nearest gas and country store. This is the vehicle that always can get us out of here no matter the weather. Other than that it is my boys fishing / trapping rig and being locked or having a key at all is really unneeded for it. Thanks once again for all your help.

DFlintstone

I still might try running a long wire from bat pos to where the ign switch gets power and see if I learn something. Heck it that worked and it's just a brush buggy I might put an inline fuse on the bat. end of that and call it done!

Again later if I have time I'll look at those diagrams some more. I'd like to learn it regardless.

1976gmc20

So where are you - northern BC ???


I thought we were off the beaten path here in Montana. It's nice to know someone else actually needs a 4x4

zim

76gmc, I live along the south side of the UL Bend here in Montana. 24 miles of gumbo from my house to the gravel road then 25 of gravel to the nearest pavement. We are big fans of Super Swampers and cut fenders.

Yesterday, I took out the wiper wash reservoir and found that the fuse panel connector was encased in a wad of still moist mud. I dug it all off of there and blew as much as I could off. Today I will take those two connections loose and start testing for hots. Gotta find out why I have no juice to that ign switch. May get to town in a day or so and will pick up a starter relay. I have a hunch that it may be the weak link here. I have never found a good way of testing the relay itself. (yet)

cruiser54

That's the C100 connector. Comes apart just like the C101.

And guess what?

Power comes from a green fusible link, through the C100 to the ignition switch.........

zim

Crusier, I have tested and tested all wires coming off relay with fuseable links and they have shown to have juice going "downstream" towards the fuse panel. I am just about convinced my problem is there from the panel to the ign switch. If I am all wet on this please say so because I'm about to pull that connector that you have shown apart.
Thanks you!

cruiser54

I think you are absolutely on the right track.

zim

With that encouragement, I will be digging into it in a few minutes. Will post findings at lunchtime. Thanks

1976gmc20

Cool! We're "almost neighbors" then by Montana standards.


We're up in the pine hills a little south of the muddy Musselshell. Supposedly a gravel road down to US-12, but the county can't figure out how to properly run a grader and they just keep making it worse and worse. It gets impassable by 2wd or fwd every time it rains.

DFlintstone

BINGO! That's what we needed! Dive in! (I''m dubious)......

zim

ok, I started to pull the fuse panel apart in the firewall last week only to be rained out for about 24 hours. Then I had to run off to the mountains for a few days on a bear hunt with the boys. This morning, it is sunny and I have a fresh outlook on fixing this thing. My fuse box now looks just like the one in Crusier's photo. I do indeed have power on the engine side of the box at the blade that reads ign. in my panel. Why that juice is not going thru the firewall is still a mystery to me. I am now going to clean with this spray cleaner for electrical connections and resume testing for "hot" at points towards the ign. switch. I am back for the duration of the day, so please chime in with any advise or comments. Thanks to everyone for getting me thru this mess.
Zim

zim

Forgot to ask, of all those blades in the fuse connector that are seen in the above photo how many should be testing hot to the engine compartment side when the connector is parted like that?