j12784

so i disconnected my battery at the positive terminal. ran my volt meter (positive side to the positive side of the battery neg to the fuel pump relay on the power side), and i was getting 12+v. the fuel pump is working, but it floods, and doesn't start. also i looked all over and there are no burned wires near the motor at all. AT ALL. any suggestions?

j12784

I know what I'm saying doesn't make any sense, but I'm about to lose my place to live because I can't figure this car out. Someone please help.

j12784

j12784

so the fuel pump primes, and delivers fuel at a good pressure. but it shows its grounded at the power side through this test right? how is this possible?

DFlintstone

Maybe the power side fuel pump wire is grounding through the fuel pump, as it would need to do run the pump, which apparently is working fine. I might not bother, but checking it unplugged would check just the wire up to the relay. I don't think it has a knock sensor, and "that", on an 87-90 wouldn't make it flood, (or otherwise matter). Sounds like you have the common hardened O rings in the oil filter adapter leaking, only issue there is eventually enough oil might kill the starter.

If you hold the petal firmly on the floor it might cut off fuel completely while allowing max air flow. If it's not firing due to being flooded, cranking it like that should eventually make it fire.

Jeepwalker

I sent you a private message.

I'm kind of running out of ideas. Go back to that mechanic and ask what he did and why it worked. Also, wouldn't hurt to google the oil pressure situation and see if that'll prevent the vehicle from starting. I don't think the fuel pump issue would cause flooding, It still has to go through the injectors.

DFlintstone

If it has good spark it's not the CPS.
If it ran well with the dizy re-installed it likely is indexed correctly.
Seems about a sure bet it's flooded if the plugs are wet, cranking with it floor-boarded will eventually make it fire, faulty MAP or not.
I did not send a private message!


From memory, key on and off, three times in 5 seconds then leave it on. Flashing 3 times pause, then 6 times is code 36, for example. I think it does 5"s to signal "end of codes"
ODB-I codes for us older jeeps..

11 No crank signal to computer. Fault in wiring between crankshaft position sensor (CPS) and ECM ( PCM or computer ) or faulty CPS.
12 Battery disconnected. Battery or power to the ECM disconnected in the last 50 key cycles.
13 MAP Sensor. No change in Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) between engine off and on. Check circuit and MAP sensor.
14 MAP Sensor. MAP sensor voltage too high or low. Check circuit and sensor.
15 Speed sensor or circuit. No signal detected from speed sensor. Check circuit and sensor.
17 Engine running too cold. Wrong or faulty thermostat. Check also sensor and circuit for fault.
21 Oxygen sensor or circuit. O2 sensor or wiring faulty.
22 Coolant sensor or circuit. Check temp sensor and wiring.
23 Intake air temp or circuit. Check air temp sensor and wiring.
24 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Check TPS sensor and wiring.
25 Idle Air Control circuit (IAC) Check IAC sensor and wiring.
26 Injector circuit resistance. Peak injector current has not been reached or injector circuits have resistance
27 Fuel injector control circuit. Will need specialist diagnostics.
31 Evaporative control circuit. Fault in fuel evaporative control circuit or hoses.
33 Air conditioning clutch relay. Wiring to A/C clutch fault.
34 Cruise control circuit. Fault in circuit.
35 Cooling fan relay. Check relay and circuit.
36 Air switch solenoid circuit. Air switch solenoid circuit (non-turbo) or the waste gate solenoid on turbocharged models
37 Torque converter clutch. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics.
41 Alternator field switch. Switch not operating correctly and check charging system.
42 Automatic shutdown relay. Check relay and circuit. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics.
43 Misfire. Misfire in one or more cylinders.
44 Battery temperature sensor. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics.
46 Battery over voltage. Check charging system.
47 Battery under voltage. Check charging system.
51 O2 detects lean mixture. Check sensor and circuit and for vacuum leaks.
52 O2 detects rich mixture. Check fuel injection system and sensor.
53 Powertrain Control Module. PCM (ECM) fault. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics.
54 Distributor sync pickup. Change sync sensor in distributor.
55 End of code. Trouble codes finished or none recorded.
61 BARO solenoid BARO solenoid failure
62 Emissions reminder. Emissions maintenance reminder. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics.
63 Controller failure. EEPROM write denied. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics.
64 Flexible fuel sensor. Flexible fuel (methanol) sensor indicates concentration sensor input more/less than acceptable voltage
65 Manifold tune value. Manifold tune valve solenoid circuit open or shorted
66 TCM to PCM failure. No message from the Transmission Control Module (TCM) to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
72 Catalytic converter circuit. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics.
76 Fuel pump bypass relay circuit. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics.
77 Cruise control system. Check power to cruise control solenoids.

j12784

i let it sit for days. its stalling and flooding out. maybe an injector is stuck open? when i jump the fuel pump relay it makes a whining noise from the hoses on the front of the fuel rail where the fuel pump connects to the fuel rail that leads to the fuel injectors. i assumed this noise was normal fuel going back into the tank? how can i check to see if the fuel injectors are stuck open, and would this cause my problem. crank, but no start with the issue of the mechanic pulling the relay out for a minute, cranking the **** out of it then getting it started, i drive it home running fine till it idles 10 minutes overheats then dies?

Jeepwalker

Did you get it to 'pop' a little by dribbling a little fuel down the throttle body? Are you double SURE the coil wire is good and you have good spark at ALL the ends of each spark plug? IDK if a set of noid lights would help out to see what the injectors are doing, or if you can test them with a multi-meter. I'm kind of out of ideas on the fuel system. I mean, if you have pressure, you know fuel is getting into the cylinders ....you say you have spark ..the timing you claim 'seems' to be there. Something must be missing. Are you SURE the timing is 110% correct ...that somehow it didn't skip when you got back, as unlikely as it seems? And that there's visible spark to each of the spark plug ENDS? I know you've double-checked these things, but something must be missing.

BTW, I probably shouldn't suggest this, but people I've seen do this (not me of course), have dried out cylinders by sticking a lit propane torch into the spark plug hole to burn out the fuel. Also heat the plug ends up to prevent gas fouling out. You can let sit too, but it takes a while to dry out. You might need to put a little oil in the cylinders b/c the cyl wall are probably all washed down with gas by now (lowering the compression).

DFlintstone

Like I mentioned earlier, holding the pedal on the floor will cut off fuel, pretty sure there. (no need to pull the relay). Not allot of help here.....overheating, does it actually boil a n make a fit, or it is it just a gauge/light? I'm still beating that MAP drum. Even with a couple injectors stuck wide open, (never herd of that), it should still run.

One thought, if it can overheat idling in 10 minutes hot gas might be escaping the combustion cylinder(s) into the water jacket. (head gasket shot) Easy test for that, fill the rad to the brim, then with the cap off power/brake it. If it bubbles, or shoots coolant out with the engine under load could be 1,800* combustion gasses going into the coolant warming it up so quick.
" i drive it home running fine till it idles 10 minutes"
How long is your drive home? Is your E-fan working and your fan shroud OK? Moving on the freeway it doesn't need those, parked or slow hill climbing, it does. (Something needs to get air through the rad!)

j12784

starts sometimes but only if i put the petal down. and it only sometimes starts mostly when i leave it sitting for a while then try and start it. anyone know?

New alternator
New crank position sensor
New battery
New ignition coil
New distributor
New oil pressure sensor
New Coolant Temp Sensor

j12784

Just got new injectors off ebay. I'll let you guys know if that fixes it. have a feeling it will.

Red1992XJ

Sorry to jump in late but just to review:
You have spark
You have fuel, especially adequate fuel pressure?
It will start only when you push the pedal all the way, but mainly after it has set for awhile.

Stupid question, has the fuel filter been replaced ever? I had a friend that had a car that acted almost the same way, the damn fuel filter was so plugged. Probably not the issue, but stranger stuff has happened.

On to the oil gauge. If I remember correct, the gauge reads through the resistor in the sensor. When the sensor is unplugged it will max out. If you purchased a new oil pressure sensor, there are actually two types. One is for the gauge cluster that had only idiot lights, and one is for the one with full gauges. If the incorrect one is installed, it will max out. Make sure that the parts store didn't give you the sensor for the idiot light. Check Rockauto, Standard Motor Products PS257 is the proper one for a gauge.

Also, have you recently gone though and cleaned up all of the electrical grounds?

DFlintstone

F me harder, They have "improved" this sit to where it barely works, Unless you have really wrong injectors, it's your MAP or its tube or wires. I tried to be more complete but the system seems to be jacked up. Can you here me now?