1994 Cherokee Country AC drier
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 36
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From: Virginia, RVA, capital city, last hope for the Confederacy
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
1994 Cherokee Country AC drier
Well for all of you interested in replacing your AC drier, the bad news is that the pressure switch port on ALL aftermarket parts is on the other side of the top unit (turned 180 degrees).
I am about to splice and extend the wires before I proceed to evac the ac lines and retrofit the system with R134a. I have no other choice than to splice...the harness won't reach now.
On another note. BOTH the low side and high side service port valves have 'stem type' valves in addition to the service ports.
I'm like WTH is this? when I first saw them!
I am about to splice and extend the wires before I proceed to evac the ac lines and retrofit the system with R134a. I have no other choice than to splice...the harness won't reach now.
On another note. BOTH the low side and high side service port valves have 'stem type' valves in addition to the service ports.
I'm like WTH is this? when I first saw them!
Last edited by AunJeremiah; 06-08-2019 at 04:55 PM. Reason: spelling
#2
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,438
Likes: 8
From: Georgia
Year: 99 94
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: I6
My old harness reached just fine with the drier I installed when I converted my 1994 from r134 to r12. I did have to adapt the r12 electrical connector onto the new drier.
#3
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
From: Virginia, RVA, capital city, last hope for the Confederacy
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
almost done!
that's interesting...regarding the harness reaching to the other side. just for clarification, was your new drier pressure switch plug location facing the driver's side of the engine? my original switch plug was facing the passenger side. and how long ago did you make the conversion?
the splicing of the wires took some time, but it all ended well. the two wires are 16 gauge for anybody having to do the splicing.
what was surprising was/is the amount of refrigerant this system apparently needs.
we pumped (3) 12 oz. cans of r134a oil/refrigerant into the system and still couldn't reach the desired hi/low side pressure target.
while it blows cold air, i'm guessing it could use another 12 to 24 oz. of refrigerant-only to reach optimal efficiency.
as such, the compressor would cycle on/off occasionally
[i've got my jeep back on the road again, which is exciting for me. i had to park my 1995 saturn sl, original owner, and doubt i'll put it back on the road. number 2 cylinder oil ring most likely welded to piston. she was a very reliable vehicle, and most of all i'm going to sorely miss the mpg. although in the end, i was literally dumping two quarts of oil per week (minimum) into the car as a daily driver.]
also, an interesting thing happened to me last night on my drive though. even before i reached my destination, i noticed a burning smell, and a shimmy/shake/vibration in the vehicle.
when i parked and investigated, the left front rotor was smoking hot...literally smoking, accompanied by the awful smell of burnt brake pads. and when i looked under the vehicle, the rotor was glowing orange/red. kind of freaky...
anyway, i took the wheel off and the rotor didn't seem to be stuck, so i took a C clamp and compressed the brake pad further in on the caliper. i'm guessing the caliper may have been stuck b/c after we finished up with the a/c conversion, the exact same opposite ride home, there were no problems at all.
the splicing of the wires took some time, but it all ended well. the two wires are 16 gauge for anybody having to do the splicing.
what was surprising was/is the amount of refrigerant this system apparently needs.
we pumped (3) 12 oz. cans of r134a oil/refrigerant into the system and still couldn't reach the desired hi/low side pressure target.
while it blows cold air, i'm guessing it could use another 12 to 24 oz. of refrigerant-only to reach optimal efficiency.
as such, the compressor would cycle on/off occasionally
[i've got my jeep back on the road again, which is exciting for me. i had to park my 1995 saturn sl, original owner, and doubt i'll put it back on the road. number 2 cylinder oil ring most likely welded to piston. she was a very reliable vehicle, and most of all i'm going to sorely miss the mpg. although in the end, i was literally dumping two quarts of oil per week (minimum) into the car as a daily driver.]
also, an interesting thing happened to me last night on my drive though. even before i reached my destination, i noticed a burning smell, and a shimmy/shake/vibration in the vehicle.
when i parked and investigated, the left front rotor was smoking hot...literally smoking, accompanied by the awful smell of burnt brake pads. and when i looked under the vehicle, the rotor was glowing orange/red. kind of freaky...
anyway, i took the wheel off and the rotor didn't seem to be stuck, so i took a C clamp and compressed the brake pad further in on the caliper. i'm guessing the caliper may have been stuck b/c after we finished up with the a/c conversion, the exact same opposite ride home, there were no problems at all.
Last edited by AunJeremiah; 06-09-2019 at 12:12 PM.
#4
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
From: Virginia, RVA, capital city, last hope for the Confederacy
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
AC Servicing Manual
also, for anyone needing guidance with the process, this a great site:
http://jeep-manual.ru/index.php?page=277
FYI, the drier part i purchased and installed is below as well:
http://jeep-manual.ru/index.php?page=277
FYI, the drier part i purchased and installed is below as well:
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