Red1992XJ

When the clicking was described, it wasn't clear as to if it was one click, a bunch, or where it was coming from. I just figured that the amount of time it takes to jiggle the shifter, it was worth it to check.

It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to cleaning the grounds and looking into replacing the battery cables if they have reason to be suspect. Also, if the OP is not mechanically inclined, it probably would also be good to find a mechanic who is comfortable to diagnose and repair electrical systems, especially on older vehicles.

jordan96xj

A mechanic who can't diagnose a no-crank because "electronics aren't they're specialty" is not really a mechanic. No-cranks are a common bread-and-butter job for mechanics. Older vehicles actually tend to be easier when it comes to no-cranks, because there are less components between the ignition switch and the starter motor.

To be sure, the OP should take it to another shop.

Red1992XJ

Agreed, too many people don't learn automotive electrical theory, and don't bother to even try to diagnose a problem. They just want to change the oil, rotate the tires, and send you on your way.

I've seen guys who have power problems on trucks they deem unsolvable, when it turns out the connections in the fuse block have pushed back so the fuse isn't actually making the connection.

gat

Take a multimeter and measure the resistance between the positive post of the battery and the bolt where the positive cable attaches to the starter. Post the result here. Do the same from the negative post to the bolt from the block. Post that result here.
What is the voltage across the two posts with the key in the off position?
In the on position?
While cranking?
It would be best to measure those values across the posts and at the forementioned bolts. If the values are significantly differently, then the cable/terminals should be the issue.

To eliminate fuel as the issue, I like to add a teaspoon of gasoline into each combustion cylinder thru the holes for the spark plugs. Adding starter fluid or gasoline into the throttle body yeilds a similar effect. You can "rent" a free gauge to check the fuel pressure at the rail.

Ensure that there are no holes nor cracks between the air filter and the intake. These are decent - not all inclusive - tests for the three things needed for a combustion engine: fuel, air, and compression. Since you were able to drive it, then I don't think that compression is the issue.