Idunno

Access - The dash panel/bezel surrounding the radio and speedo must be removed. Three screws - 2 just under the top side surrounding the speedo and 1 just above the lighter. All Phillips head. The rest of the panel is clips engaging the dash. Just gently pull out to free the panel. Then the cuff surrounding the steering column must be removed via 2 screws on the aft lower half of the cuff. They screw upward into the upper half of the cuff. These are T15 size and they're about 2-1/2 inches into the holes so you'll need a T15 key, like any normal Allen style key. The holes are too small to fit a standard bit holder with a T15 bit. I didn't have a T15 key so I had to fashion one from a 2mm key by cutting notches into the 6 flats with a small Dremel cut-off wheel. I thought regular Phillips head screws would have been just fine but Chrysler didn't. I got the lower column cuff off. The column vertical adjust wand screws out and the upper cuff is then free to remove. Still unable to remove the dash panel/bezel because the turn signal switch was blocking it, I found that Chrysler installed T-15 security screws - the ones with the raised post dead-center in the fastener. I had a bit for it but those screws were so tight I stripped the bit on the first one (of 2 total) and had to drill out the 2nd one. Why Chrysler would put security screws to attach a turn signal switch is beyond me. With the turn signal switch removed the dash panel slips off. Before the day was out I replaced the security screws with 4.7mm Phillips machine screws and the T15 screws holding the cuff together with Phillips head sheet metal screws.

The radio is best removed to get to the HVAC control beneath it. There are 4 Phillips head screws holding the control in place. It consists of a mode selector switch screwed to the top of the door blender cable housing assembly. BTW, I did not consult a manual for this job so the names I'm giving the parts I'm making up on the fly here. The blender door cable terminates on the lever of the door. There's a push-on friction washer to remove, which is easy, but the cable is secured to the HVAC box by a square insertion clip type plastic clamp molded onto the end of the cable housing. It's inserted into a flange molded in to the HVAC box with a corresponding square hole to accept the clip. There must be a special tool to squeeze the clip when removing it because no human can contort himself to get any pliers onto the clip to squeeze it. I broke the flange on the HVAC box to remove the cable. I'll make a new (sheet metal) clip and attach it with a stainless screw and sealant when I get to that part of the reinstall.

The mode selector switch portion of the control that is screwed on to the lower cable housing was broken off at the screw flanges (2 places), and the cable housing was also broken on the front face between the blower switch and the temp selector lever. No repair for this one. I figure 24 years in the Florida heat deteriorated the plastic and it became very brittle. Anyway, I'll search out a serviceable used one.

Summary - Too much work is necessary to access, and remove the control. If the replaceable light bulb needs to be changed (and mine did), all the steering column and dash panel work is necessary, the radio needs to be removed and only then can you get your hand behind the control to the 1/4 turn lamp socket.

While on topic, I've read here that some people have a problem where their HVAC is stuck on defrost. So was mine. The electrical/vacuum control (mode selector switch), which selects the AC/Vent/Heat/Defrost modes of the system is operated by the slider selector lever. That lever is a part of the cable housing beneath the mode selector switch. The lower cable housing selector lever has an upward protruding post that engages and operates the mode selector switch. The mode selector switch must be tightly attached to the cable housing beneath it to operate properly. If it separates from the lower cable housing, like mine did when its attaching screw flanges broke, the post will disengage and leave the system in the last mode selected. That makes sense because, in my case, the first mode I usually select every morning is defroster and that's the position it remained in when it stopped working.