318SixPack

I haven't seen a fresh thread on this for a couple of years, and it's my turn to replace a heater core.
1996 Cherokee XJ Sport, 4,0L i6

Are any of them especially bad, or are there any really good values out there?

Rock Auto has several to choose from, and the 4 Seasons Model claims to be copper/brass, and aluminum.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=6864&jsn=2463
Emailed them to see if that is true, since Rock Auto only knows what the suppliers tell them.


GPD submitted a photo to Rock Auto of a copper/brass unit. I tried to contact them but didn't want to create an account. Their Twitter has not been active since 2019, and someone in the forums said they couldn't contact the company back a few years ago.

One suggested often is from Superior Cooling, but it is 1997+, mine is 1996.
https://www.superiorcooling.co/48740...-wrangler.html

Saw a few veterans saying some of the new stuff fails in months, so avoiding that would be great. I do plan on replacing all coolant when I dig into this.
What are the reliable brands?

Thanks in advance!

country2

I replaced my heater core about 7 years ago and used a Spectra 93024 which fits 87-01. Wasn't copper but aluminum but so far no leaks.

318SixPack

Then I might as well keep that one in my cart. Ordering a UAC evaporator core too.
Have some stuff to fix the melted fan switch connector and add some relays for better power management there.
Not sure what else to fuss with while I'm in.

country2

The only reason I did heater core was just the fact the evap core was leaking and well you know how big of a pain in the *** it is figured while I'm at it might as well. Give you a idea of prices from 7 years ago the HVAC Heater Core Spectra 93024 was $39.79 now I see average price is twice as much! Noticed I changed the heater core from Four Seasons to Spectra as I got what brands I used backwards.

318SixPack

Saw someone a few years ago complaining about a Spectra they got from Amazon.
The Four Seasons unit I noted in the post is $31.89 at Rock Auto, and is the least expensive one, but it is the only one that claimed to be copper/brass.
If it isn't copper/brass I might go with the fan favorite at RA, the OSC that is $48 and change.

Sig220

I just opened up my 96 HVAC system last week to change the heater core (after replacing the passenger floorboard). I found what I presume to be the original heater core as it was brass/copper. Instead of replacing it, I had it repaired at a local radiator shop. Total cost was more then a aluminum core (right at $100 and change) but I just didn't want a aluminum heater core. I left my AC evap core alone as it was still holding pressure so it was just evacuated. Anyway, if you have a radiator shop nearby and have a fear of aluminum maybe yours can be fixed! I also fixed a leak at the antenna grommet and one at the top left of the windshield. Have to do some more water testing before installing the interior again.

318SixPack

I totally forgot about that option. We have two or three radiator repair places around here. I need to check with them first.

Sig220

My local shop wanted to see my core before committing to fixing it and quoting a price. Once he saw it and where the leak was (lower corner) he said he didn't think it would be a problem, saying they don't make them like that anymore and estimated approximately a $100 charge to fix it. We got to talking about how much solder and anything metal had gone up and he said in the past he could get a coil of solder wire for $10 and now it was $50! He had been in the business a while and I was glad to have met him!

318SixPack

The four seasons description is total garbage. All aluminum, per their email back to me.

318SixPack

A local radiator shop says he orders from Thermal Solutions, and from other forums some folks tried to order direct from them. No dice.
For 1994-1996 the TS part number is 398311 was something I found but I'm not sure that is the right one. But it is a site that doesn't seem to be working right (could be an old site).
Emailed the local guy for a price and availability estimate.

This seems to be the Thermal Solutions website now.
https://www.thermalsolutionsmfg.com/...oduct-catalog/
UPC 040876383111

the shop in Knoxville quoted me 2 days, $200 and I forgot if it was total or not

318SixPack

Thermal Solutions also sells through Radiator Express, if your local radiator shop doesn't use them, or can't source a copper core.
https://www.radiatorexpress.com/part...e/sport/40L-L6

318SixPack

The radiator shop by me said repairing one was closer to $300 or more (I think he was referring to sending it out), he said unless it was an inlet or outlet tube he probably couldn't repair it in house.

Then the Thermal Solutions adventure began.

Sig220

Sorry that that idea (repair) didnt work for you. Keep us posted on the Thermal Solutions adventure!

Jeepwalker

I put a copper/brass core in my Jeep. There are several reasons to spend the extra time to track aluminum/brass down, or get yours repaired (If you can). Advantages of the Copper are: Number of fins per inch, larger water passages, more water passages, fluted passages/fins, and so on, which make the copper a superior product if you *carefully* compare the aluminum and copper side-by-side. You can see how much 'deeper' the copper/brass H/C is in the pic below. As I recall I estimated about 20% less, or maybe it was 30% less surface area on the aluminum H/C. Aluminum offers better heat transfer, its true, but thinner water passages 'could' clog more easily and there are fewer passages. Too many fins decrease airflow (unless it's designed for aluminum). The copper fins are designed better for more surface area, in my estimation.

Then ...you add to this that Copper/Brass are of noble metals, meaning they don't give up their electrons as easily (and AL does!), means they can tolerate a wider range of pH. Whereas Iron likes to be in the 9 and above ...so you shoot for a narrow 8.5pH with is a middle-ground between iron and aluminum. Again, there's a very NARROW range where they are both 'happy' (8.5). Above that (9+ where Iron likes to be), the paper-thin aluminum heater core becomes the anode, lol and will literally be 'eating itself out' over time. Inhibitors in the anti-freeze helps out, but only to a certain point. That's why aluminum heater cores generally don't last as long if maintenance is poor, because it's difficult to maintain the right pH. Who tests their vehicle's coolant? Obviously at the end of the day, Aluminum will work ok given good maintenance and more frequent coolant changes. But if you have a choice, copper that's more like OEM provides distinct value advantages if yer into your jeep for the long haul. Esp for those in cold climates. In the HVAC world of boilers and hot water heat, I've seen customers go 'cheap' and add an aluminum heat exchanger boiler to an iron/copper boiler system ...and after a couple years of mediocre water treatment, their aluminum boilers are literally 'eaten out'.

I ended up finding mine on ebay. It wasn't a whole lot more $ than the 'good' aluminum heater cores (which I'd already bought). It might have even been less. I could heat a house with my Jeep. Make sure you use new coolant when you're finished and distilled water. I check the pH of my vehicles' coolant from time to time ... so I'm not 'murdering' my otherwise-good heater core/s.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/333591716983

"It's all ball-bearings these days!"

Jeepwalker

And while you're at it, ...and you probably know this from reading all the H/C R&R posts, you might want to put new foam on the heater box damper doors. It's almost manditory to get 'good' heat. That foam gets to an age where the foam rubber compound simply deteriorates from age. If yours still has foam on them, you're lucky. It probably won't be long and it'll just flake off. Foam rubber only lasts so long till it gets dry/brittle and degrades.

You can buy long-lasting heat tolerant foam from McMaster Carr. You need some thin foam (1/8??) and a little bit of the thicker foam. Do a google search b/c there are some posts (how-to's) out there on doing the job what specific M/C part numbers to order, and all that. It costs more, but considering the scope of a heater core repair, ....if you don't have good foam on your damper doors cold winter air will just blow by and you won't get much heat out. And you don't want to go back in for another repair soon I'm sure. Sorry if this is redundant information...

Good luck with your project!!