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1996 XJ Radiator Mounting

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Old 11-09-2019 | 07:03 PM
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From: East Tennessee
Year: 1996
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Default 1996 XJ Radiator Mounting

Are the two pegs on the bottom side of the radiator supposed to go down through the oblong holes on the lower AC Condenser brackets (tabs on bottom of the condenser) and down into the rubber grommets mounted in the lower radiator support?

The place that installed the rad I just removed didn't get them into those grommets for sure, one grommet was half way out of the hole covered in dirt.

Hopefully I can get this all wrapped up tomorrow and start the chemical flush.

Old radiator was from Radtech, Inc. brass and copper, forgot if it was 2 or 3 core and lasted about twice as long as the OE unit.
Old 11-09-2019 | 11:56 PM
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Looks like the dowels go through the condenser brackets. So, when I replace the condenser next year, I need to remember to lift the radiator up to get the condenser out.

Old 11-10-2019 | 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by 318SixPack
Are the two pegs on the bottom side of the radiator supposed to go down through the oblong holes on the lower AC Condenser brackets (tabs on bottom of the condenser) and down into the rubber grommets mounted in the lower radiator support?
.
yes
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Old 11-10-2019 | 05:18 PM
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Radiator replacement day 2:

Parked nose down attitude and got the rest of the coolant out, then flushed block with tap water through the heater line. Came out green, then clear. Installed new radiator. Yes, the pegs at the bottom capture the bottom condenser brackets. Eventually got it to slide home into both grommets on lower member.

Had to trim lower hose at the block end about 1/2". Looks like it could use another 1/2". Thought Gates markets these as direct replacement, no trimming, but whatever. It still touches a rubber line from steering iirc. Used constant tension clamps, sprayed them down with silicone (silicone spray on the tubes for hoses too, makes everything easier). Upper hose seems to need a trim too, it hits the hood when I close it (discovered after filling with cleaner)

Upper support was difficult. Mistake I made was installing lower hose first before installing upper support. It lifted the driver's side radiator peg out of its grommet, so support was high enough for bolt holes not to line up. Corrected that and trimmed the hose at the block end.

Made sure all clamp adjusters are accessible this time. The shop that installed the last radiator left that a little difficult. Could not release clamp and pull the hose from the radiator on the lower side. Can now. Same with the other clamps.

Loaded up radiator/system with Royal Purple Royal Flush and distilled water while still pointing down hill. Then turned around and added more water with engine running heater on, pointing up hill. Forgot about the phase where it belches out a bunch of fluid after you put a couple gallons in. When it seemed to not be taking any more, I filled up the overflow bottle to the top and put the cap on the radiator. Monitored it get up to around 205F indicated, and stabilize.

Test drove for about an hour with heater on. Never got to 210. Indicated is showing lower than what I am used to with the old radiator and thermostat. Thermostat is a Murry, made in Israel. It tested perfect and seems to be working fine. No leaks anywhere that I could see. Installing a FelPro gasket dry seems to be the way to go.

Only getting down to the 40s tonight here, so going to let it sit outside and go through a complete heat cycle back to cold, run it around tomorrow a little, cool off and drain the cleaner out. Run some distilled water through everything, drain, and add final coolant tomorrow.

Note: It either sucked in or blew out half the overflow bottle worth of water during the drive. Now that sits just above the full line.

Last edited by 318SixPack; 11-10-2019 at 05:34 PM.
Old 11-11-2019 | 02:45 AM
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its a good idea to keep the heater valve open for a while after a cooling system OH, gets air out
Old 11-11-2019 | 04:20 AM
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Originally Posted by 318SixPack

It either sucked in or blew out half the overflow bottle worth of water during the drive. Now that sits just above the full line.
Originally Posted by awg
its a good idea to keep the heater valve open for a while after a cooling system OH, gets air out
In a '96 you will want to run the heater when you do this.

Most likely it sucked it in as air burped out.
Old 11-11-2019 | 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Ralph77
In a '96 you will want to run the heater when you do this.

Most likely it sucked it in as air burped out.
Yes, keeping heater on the whole time. Occasionally while driving will shut it off and see if I get any fluctuation in the temp gauge.

Drove around for an hour this AM and made a couple of stops. Picked up some extra distilled water. Everything seems to be running fine with the cleaner in there.

Must have a not-well-sealed connection somewhere. After I rinsed off engine bay of coolant that got all over the place yesterday, then backed it up and faced up hill, the next start was pretty rough and got a 22 code from the key switch. From Quadratec: 22 Engine coolant temperature sensor above or below acceptable voltage. (just now found that) But another reference had something else. Will re-check my connection to the coolant sensor, clean with contact cleaner and dielectric grease it. Could be why it is reading lower than what I am used to also.

Had another slow restart today too when I picked up water. Just cranked a little longer than usual.

Old 11-11-2019 | 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by 318SixPack
Yes, keeping heater on the whole time. Occasionally while driving will shut it off and see if I get any fluctuation in the temp gauge.

Drove around for an hour this AM and made a couple of stops. Picked up some extra distilled water. Everything seems to be running fine with the cleaner in there.

Must have a not-well-sealed connection somewhere. After I rinsed off engine bay of coolant that got all over the place yesterday, then backed it up and faced up hill, the next start was pretty rough and got a 22 code from the key switch. From Quadratec: 22 Engine coolant temperature sensor above or below acceptable voltage. (just now found that) But another reference had something else. Will re-check my connection to the coolant sensor, clean with contact cleaner and dielectric grease it. Could be why it is reading lower than what I am used to also.

Had another slow restart today too when I picked up water. Just cranked a little longer than usual.
I would not go nuts with the CEL just yet.
So when I first got my Jeep I had to do the radiator as you might remember.
So when I got it in and filled it with distilled water for the test I did not own my Lisle funnel yet.
Figured the air would burp out as I drove her.
So the first day driving her within 15 minutes I got a CEL.
I never even plugged in my scanner to see what it was.
I just cleared it and it never came back.
My little theory was that it was temp sensor related.
An air pocket hit the sensor, she had a little hissy fit, and threw the CEL.
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Old 11-11-2019 | 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Ralph77
I would not go nuts with the CEL just yet.
So when I first got my Jeep I had to do the radiator as you might remember.
So when I got it in and filled it with distilled water for the test I did not own my Lisle funnel yet.
Figured the air would burp out as I drove her.
So the first day driving her within 15 minutes I got a CEL.
I never even plugged in my scanner to see what it was.
I just cleared it and it never came back.
My little theory was that it was temp sensor related.
An air pocket hit the sensor, she had a little hissy fit, and threw the CEL.
I cleaned up the connector again, reconnected and cleared my codes. Didn't come back. However, I did lose that little blue silicone gasket on the connector. Still have not found anyplace that sells replacements. Something else to put on the junk yard shopping list.

Have the coolant in now, headed out to test drive.
Old 05-25-2022 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 318SixPack
Looks like the dowels go through the condenser brackets. So, when I replace the condenser next year, I need to remember to lift the radiator up to get the condenser out.

https://youtu.be/x7SWDSc3-VQ?t=382
what was the truth? Does the rubber grommets go through the condenser holes first?
Old 05-25-2022 | 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by computerpulse
what was the truth? Does the rubber grommets go through the condenser holes first?
then the radiator sits on the rubber grommets?
Old 05-25-2022 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by computerpulse
then the radiator sits on the rubber grommets?
The rubber grommets go into the radiator support. Pins from the radiator go through the grommets, with the radiator sitting atop them so it's not a metal on metal situation between the radiator and the support.

And you are asking me about something I did almost 3 years ago and haven't revisited, so YMMV.
Old 05-25-2022 | 08:38 PM
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[QUOTE=318SixPack;3675124]The rubber grommets go into the radiator support. Pins from the radiator go through the grommets, with the radiator sitting atop them so it's not a metal on metal situation between the radiator and the support.

And you are asking me about something I did almost 3 years ago and haven't revisited, so YMMV.[/QUOTE

You have the condenser brackets also. My question is, does the Condenser brackets go first then the rubber grommets then the radiator? I just installed a radiator and I have the rubber grommet to the bottom and then they condenser bracket then the radiator?
Old 05-26-2022 | 08:11 AM
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Grommet, Condenser bracket, radiator.
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