GruntRig1776

Ok so here I sit scratching my head lol. I'll attach a recap and pictures to refresh the minds of the forum, but I really want to know if keeping this rig and running her as a summer rig and taking the doors off and mudding, or if that's not even possible.

My thoughts are throw the frame stiffeners on, front, center, rear, replace the transfer case support across underneath, new huge plain steel floor pans, and just don't run her in the cold, or at minimum make a trail truck out of her.

So here we go and lets see what everyone feels on this current thought route. . .

"Everything on her is good, except the body it's rusted (only the body), so I know as a daily commuter, it's not going to be sensible.

It's so dumb too lol, I ordered $600 rock sliders and the unibody reinforcement kit($550), and a new transfer case support($200), and everything else mechanical(thank god most of the parts otherwise I haven't installed yet), to make her on stoppable and a damn tank to then find out after taking the carpet out that there's no floor.

I just wanna know if I should really just pull the axles, the engine, transmission, transfer case, and any other mechanical usable parts, put them with the parts that I haven't installed yet and build a monster."

Spencer_P

She's pretty well done. If you have the time and will to fix it that'd be my vote as opposed to buying a clean stock Cherokee and cutting it up and bashing it through the woods.
How you drove and sat in that and thought there was a floor is beyond me

GruntRig1776

I bought for $800 off a farm, with intensions to make a camping rig, I didn't find the severity of the rust until I pulled the carpet and started banging on places lol. Can I manage to get door jams, floor pans, and new fenders in to run it in the spring, summer and fall?

Spencer_P

Yes, with a few ifs.
If you're good with a welder, but keep in mind you're gonna be rebuilding from scratch in a lot of places.
There looks to be more bad than there is good.
It can be done but you'll likely end up building a whole new frame and going from there.
There are a few build threads where people have rebuilt some pretty rusty stuff I'm sure you could find them for some inspiration.
I would not drive it on public roads without a lot of reinforcement.

GruntRig1776

I looked yesterday on here and really couldn't find much. I am still very new to the Site and would greatly appreciate some direction if at all possible Sir?

fb97xj1

Fixable? Sure. But thats a mess. Shouldve left it where you found it. Scrap it or part it out.

What i see.

driver side floorpan
passenger side floorpan
driver side outer rocker
driver side inner rocker
passenger side outer rocker
passenger side rear door
framerails (both sides, multiple sections)
transmission crossmember

The driver side front control arm bracket looks questionable, as does the lower firewall where it meets the floorpan on the driver side (last pic). You also have inner panels behind the others to consider. That driver side front brake line looks brake lines looks like a leak waiting to happen. Its crusty. Dont forget the rubber hoses that connect to them, or the one at the rear axle. They wear out from the inside so just because they look good, doesnt mean they are. What are the brakes themselves like? Does the engine even run? Transmission, transfer case? There is more going on with that thing than what you might think. Its been neglected for a looooong time.

Its done. Find another. Inspect that one more carefully and thoroughly than this one.

GruntRig1776

Engine, transmission, tcase, and axels are all working and well. I have a full unibody stiffener kit, front, center and rear, it’s 500$+ of vehicle specific good steel to weld on.

I have a new powder coated transfer case support, and I was planning on upgraded the leafs, I have hd tie rods, ball joints and new upper and lower control arms.

Including the $800 I paid for it, I have about $2,300 into it. A solid rust free Xj is going to cost me anywhere from $1500-3000 out west, east or down south.

So I’m close to 6k invested at that point, which I could put that same money into this jeep and be good, and not have to buy another, and pull and swap parts.

Thoughts?

GzrGldr

By the time you are done trying to repair all of that rust and replacing brackets and supports, that $1500-3k for a rust free body will be starting to look like a darn good investment. Personally, I would salvage the good mechanical components and use what you have as a parts jeep and find one with a better body.

GruntRig1776

Ok well, that's what I'm moving to then. I parked her in the garage and the search begins now. I hope to have a "solid" (LOL) platform by April 1st.

lawsoncl

To quote McCoy - It' dead Jim! Unless you're a skilled welder, it's not worth trying to repair it or continuing to dump money into this money pit. I'm also going to assume you're not a skilled welder or you wouldn't be asking. I'm just surprised it hasn't already taco'd in the middle.

psf4x4

You were already told this first time you asked.

I’ll add the same advice from last time. Learn to inspect a vehicle or take someone with you that does or you’ll make another $3k mistake.

I think you should not buy another vehicle to switch everything over too.

I say you should sell the Jeep (sell in pieces will get you more money) and return the parts you have that are not installed or sell them.

Take your loses as a lesson and look for something “turnkey” that someone else has already built.

GruntRig1776

That’s not how it works guy.

I don’t want something turn key, I am building something myself from stock.

I admit I didn’t look at it closely underneath when I bought it, and that’s on me.

I only paid $800, I know the parts are worth triple that, I’m not a welder but am a damn good certified mechanic.

Don’t jump on my post and be a dick, and I won’t sell the whole thing, I’ll keep it as a parts rig and keep the parts to put on a different rust free stock Jeep.

lawsoncl

I agree it's a parts vehicle. If the engine and drive train are good and you have a plan for them, then it was worth the $800.

psf4x4

Put your feelings in your pocket so they don’t get smashed some more.

I wasn’t be a Dick…guy. I was giving you advice. Solid advice. It wasn’t unsolicited and the last time you asked for brutal honesty. I didn’t provided it then or my last post but I will now.

You bought a piece of **** Jeep. And then sunk another $2000 into parts. Before you had the sense to make sure it was worth it. You ****ed up.

Based on this I don’t think you have the ability to create your dream much less change your own oil. You can only base future performance on past.

Those that can’t do must pay. You’re trying to do both and it’s going to cost you more. Based on your decision making skills in your two threads your major purchases for your Jeep should be limited to air fresheners. Even then…you’ll probably pick black ice.

You claim to be a mechanic. I’m sure you cost your clients more money than you save. I’d be embarrassed to tell anyone that after you bought that and thought you could make it something.

You advertised to be a veteran like that was something to get you more. It’s POS veterans like you that don’t deserve the title.

Now Guy…you have a reason to play victim.