1998 XJ 2.5 TDI VMI - pulling a Trailer, Clutch, MAF, MAP, Injectors
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Model: Cherokee (XJ)
1998 XJ 2.5 TDI VMI - pulling a Trailer, Clutch, MAF, MAP, Injectors
Hi Guys,
my 1998 XJ 2.5 TDI VMI had a good amount of issues recently. fixed them all except for 2/3 things.
when I pull a trailer weighting a ton max slightly uphill for a while it doesn't do it in 4th gear, if have to use the 3rd - is that a normal thing?
whats definitly not normal is that there is smoke inside the car after a bit smelling like clutch. - only with trailer uphill.
my question is, if I change the clutch, will it have the power to even pull a heavier trailer up and down the hill for a 2 hours ride or do I have to run in 3rd and probably get a heat problem.
the clutch is ok, when cold and tested without driving.
The XJ has plenty of power dragging 2 tons out of the water, driving slow 4L. but seems to lack power when its faster (2H). even without trailer.
its going above 2000 easy and I felt the turbo kick in. but it doenst really feel as it should.
now I tested and cleaned the MAF sensor, unfortunately I cleaned it first (with diesel as I read that somewhere, corona prohibited me to get cleaner) - that was probably wrong. didn't do a measurement before, but now it shows 13V between all 3 grounds (pin 1,2,4) and plus (pin 3). thats probably wrong. But I can pull the plug of the MAF, while the engine is running and it doesn't impact it at all. doesn't go off and no difference while driving.
is that a sign for a ECU problem or did the ECU recognize a bad sensor and does it all with MAP or O2?
Behind the ECU there is a little box, is that the MAP? removing the hose going in there sucks air in (vaccum I guess) with a running engine.
Second injector seems to leak. when I sprays WD40 at it the rpm changes. - could that be the reason for the power loss?
I was about to fill in 100ml aceton to clean the injectors.- once I get some..
it doenst show any error codes I resetted the ECU recently. so its just 12 for now.
thanks in advance
my 1998 XJ 2.5 TDI VMI had a good amount of issues recently. fixed them all except for 2/3 things.
when I pull a trailer weighting a ton max slightly uphill for a while it doesn't do it in 4th gear, if have to use the 3rd - is that a normal thing?
whats definitly not normal is that there is smoke inside the car after a bit smelling like clutch. - only with trailer uphill.
my question is, if I change the clutch, will it have the power to even pull a heavier trailer up and down the hill for a 2 hours ride or do I have to run in 3rd and probably get a heat problem.
the clutch is ok, when cold and tested without driving.
The XJ has plenty of power dragging 2 tons out of the water, driving slow 4L. but seems to lack power when its faster (2H). even without trailer.
its going above 2000 easy and I felt the turbo kick in. but it doenst really feel as it should.
now I tested and cleaned the MAF sensor, unfortunately I cleaned it first (with diesel as I read that somewhere, corona prohibited me to get cleaner) - that was probably wrong. didn't do a measurement before, but now it shows 13V between all 3 grounds (pin 1,2,4) and plus (pin 3). thats probably wrong. But I can pull the plug of the MAF, while the engine is running and it doesn't impact it at all. doesn't go off and no difference while driving.
is that a sign for a ECU problem or did the ECU recognize a bad sensor and does it all with MAP or O2?
Behind the ECU there is a little box, is that the MAP? removing the hose going in there sucks air in (vaccum I guess) with a running engine.
Second injector seems to leak. when I sprays WD40 at it the rpm changes. - could that be the reason for the power loss?
I was about to fill in 100ml aceton to clean the injectors.- once I get some..
it doenst show any error codes I resetted the ECU recently. so its just 12 for now.
thanks in advance
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BwanaBob (04-07-2020)
#3
CF Veteran
Yea if the clutch hasn't ever been changed you might do that if you think is slipping, be sure to do the throw out bearing and pressure plate for the whole complete job. Not just the clutch disc.
Did this job on my 67 skylark when I was only 19, on a lift at the shop I worked at, after work one night, by myself, no help. Took about 2 or 3 hours. Big difference.
Did this job on my 67 skylark when I was only 19, on a lift at the shop I worked at, after work one night, by myself, no help. Took about 2 or 3 hours. Big difference.
#4
Seasoned Member
Sounds like the clutch needs changing, especially if it is the original.
If it won't pull slightly uphill in fourth gear, by all means shift down or else you'll put
a lot of strain on the head gasket and risk overheating. Pull loads in a lower gear and
at a higher rpm so you get more water pump flow, avoid overheating, and save the
head gasket and avoid cracking one of those fragile heads.
My Jeep used to have that engine. Overloading the Jeep made it overheat several
times and cracked a couple of the heads. Make sure the water pump is in good shape.
I replaced mine twice in 50,000km of use.
As for your other questions, AWG is right, consult the Australian forum.
http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/vbindex.php
If it won't pull slightly uphill in fourth gear, by all means shift down or else you'll put
a lot of strain on the head gasket and risk overheating. Pull loads in a lower gear and
at a higher rpm so you get more water pump flow, avoid overheating, and save the
head gasket and avoid cracking one of those fragile heads.
My Jeep used to have that engine. Overloading the Jeep made it overheat several
times and cracked a couple of the heads. Make sure the water pump is in good shape.
I replaced mine twice in 50,000km of use.
As for your other questions, AWG is right, consult the Australian forum.
http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/vbindex.php
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