****UPDATE: I tested the injectors and they're all shot, Schrader Valve didn't let out any fuel, only air bubbles right after start. No one decided to comment on my thread after my initial post. I thought I'd try again and hopefully someone would be gracious enough to help out with advice this time?? I ordered new injectors, thinking of replacing the fuel rail, as well as a full tune up, plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor. Thoughts on replacing the Crank Shaft Position Sensor and Coolant Temperature Sensor, and Thermostat? Battery Voltage was 12.55V, and the pigtails that plug into the injectors were functioning perfect, and it doesn't overheat. I am really trying to do what I can to have her ready for winter, 225,000, AUTO, 4.0 Inline Six.

"Replaced fuel pump last winter, just bought for $800, will crank but won’t start. Harness, assembly and sending unit all new. Thoughts on first basic diagnosing steps moving forward??"

 

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IMO

A fuel rail costs ~$120 if you can afford it, and if yours is bad/questionable, then I’d replace it since everything is already apart.

I would add to your tune up:
- check the oil in your differentials
- inspect u-joints/grease them (if necessary)
- inspect serpentine belt
- de-ice washer fluid

CPS isn’t that hard to replace if your still having problems starting. If your fuel injectors take care of the problem though it may not be necessary.

Thermostat/temperature sensor are cheap and easy to replace if you just want peace of mind.

Again, that’s just my opinion.

 

Can't tell if you have fixed this or it still won't start. It would have been better to post just the update as a follow up post, and leave the rest intact so others can see where you've been.

Anyway, if it still won't start:

Since you don't have fuel, your ASD relay is suspect. It controls juice to fire the injectors, spark, AND the fuel pump. No ASD relay, no fuel or spark. I'd go there first. You might want to also jump 12v to your fuel pump to see if it works at all.

 

Injectors come today, thank you for the responses!! I will follow future posts with that recommendation to not confuse anyone as well.

I will be doing these as well, thank you for your advice and help guys, very much.

- check the oil in your differentials
- inspect u-joints/grease them (if necessary)
- inspect serpentine belt
- de-ice washer fluid

​​​​​​​Again I will post again when I have narrowed down, found and fixed the issues and preventive maintenance items.

 

Replaced the Fuel Injectors with EV6's, fuel rail was just fine, I also tested my Fuel pump relay, starter relay, ADS relay and they are clicking and have the proper resistance. I replaced the battery terminal clamps and cleaned the terminals, and have 13V. I checked my grounds and cleaned and reset those as well. I am hear my fuel pump kick on, the starter and the alternator test good and are doing their jobs.

What's next guys? Safety neutral switch is good, none of my gauges register anything but my dash lights come on properly with the key in the on position and clear out after a couple seconds. Emergency Brake light stays illuminated and all my fuses are good and not blown. The only thing I can think of personally is the Anti-Theft has been triggered, and or I need to relearn my OEM Key, which is a Stem Key and can be done at the dealer or by myself according to the Original Owners Manual.

THOUGHTS OR IDEAS???!!!???

 

Are you getting fuel pressure or not?

 

I am getting pulse at the Injectors, and I have good fuel pressure. I don't know why I didn't check the above, when I replaced the crank position sensor haha. It ended up being the Camshaft Position Sensor, female side of the plug. It had an open circuit and was only getting 5.35V, instead of 12V when cranking. In the picture you can see the bottom of the three wires is cut open, revealing the wires underneath.