DESERTXJ206

Ok, If I get a chance tomorrow Ill xall and get some prices. The only thing holding me back is that I just purchased new sensors within the last few weeks. Spending money on more parts isnt alway fun.

Do factory parts like that have lifetime warranty? Are they really made better than the aftermarket ones?

cruiser54

I don't think lifetime warranty on factory parts. And yes, they are generally better, especially electrical parts.

Did you ever do the sensor ground test? Or the repair?

DESERTXJ206

On the 88 I did the ground test, I also did the c101 ground repair to it. Have not done either to the 90. Of you have that write up handy Iv been meaning to do the ground test on the 90.

cruiser54

I'll post it below. I'm starting to think about something though. A fellow Arizonan named Jakers just went ahead and soldered his ground splices and had to adjust his TPS again. Get my drift? Perhaps testing is a waste of time and a guy should be just opeinng up that loom and eliminating the crimps and soldering the wires instead.

cruiser54

Cruiser’s Renix Sensor Ground Test
　

This sensor ground circuit affects the CTS, TPS, IAT, MAP, ECU and diagnostic connector grounds. It’s very important and not something to overlook in diagnosing your Renix Jeep as it is common for the harnesses to have poor crimps causing poor grounds. If any or all of the sensors do not have a good ground, the signal the ECU receives from these sensors is inaccurate.

Set your meter to measure Ohms. Be sure the key is in the OFF position. Using the positive (red) lead of your ohmmeter, probe the B terminal of the flat 3 wire connector of the TPS . The letters are embossed on the connector itself.

Touch the black lead of your meter to the negative battery post. Wiggle the wiring harness where it runs parallel to the valve cover and also near the MAP sensor mounted on the firewall. If you have an 87 or 88 with the C101 connector mounted on the firewall above the brake booster, wiggle it, too.

You want to see as close to 0 ohms of resistance as possible. And when wiggling the harnesses/connectors the resistance value should stay low. If there is a variance in the values when wiggling the wires, you have a poor crimp/connection in the wiring harness or a poor ground at the engine dipstick tube stud. On 87 and 88 models, you could have a poor connection at the C101 connector as well.

Revised 06/12/2012

cruiser54

Here's the repair. It's #6 in my write-ups with photos.

Find your Intake Air Temp sensor. It's the sensor just to the rear of the throttle body, has 2 wires, and screws into the intake manifold.

Where it's connector plugs into the harness you will see that one of the wires on the harness side　is brown with a white stripe. Follow the brown with white stripe wire back into the harness. You'll have to open up the split-loom plastic sheathing to follow it. It will come to a splice with 2 other brown with white wires with duct tape over them. They're from the TPS and the CTS. The 3 wires will be　 spliced to a single wire headed toward the C101 connector if you have an 87 or 88. If you have an 89 or 90, you do not have the C101 bulkhead connector.

　

Now go to the MAP sensor. Follow the brown with white wire into the harness from there. You will find a splice with 2 more brown with white wires with duct tape over them. At the splice you will find the 3 wires connected to a single brown with white wire going toward the C101, or just along the firewall towards the engine if you have an 89 or 90. Along with the MAP sensor that you traced, they are the ECU sensor ground port and the diagnostic connector on the passenger inner fender.

　

You now have 2 sets of 3 brown with white wires, one near the firewall and one near the engine.

　

Cut the splices out of each set of wires eliminating not only the crappy factory splices, but also the single wire between them. Bring both sets of 3 wires together. Solder the 2 sets of wires together and insulate them properly with tape or shrink tubing.

　

Zip-tie up your new sensor loom to allow for engine movement.
　I prefer to cover it with some new split-loom or wrap it neatly with electrical tape when done.

　

　

Revised 03-09-12

DESERTXJ206

Does the 90 without a C101 have those grounds also?

I already did the ground splices on the 88. That fixed my issue about a year ago but that one hasnt had the tps replaced since i adjusted it back then. I have the new part ready to go on this afternoon.

If I need to I will cut open the loom on the 90 and do the sensor grounds.

cruiser54

90 still has them. Little bit different configuration. You'll see them.

DESERTXJ206

So today on the my lunch I got to mess around with the 90 a bit. I have a few questions regarding your writeup for the TPS adjustment.

When getting your voltages and numbers from the Flat side (Engine related side, If I read correctly) does it matter if i get the voltage from the prongs on the harness side connector or should I leave it connected and check the back of the TPS side connector?

I was getting a slightly different reading at the harness side than the sensor side.

I did adjust it using the backside of the flat sensor connector and it has started about 20times with no high idle yet. Great improvement.

Also I did the ohms test on the harness and found no real fluctuation on the reading.

Side question: Is there a gasket on the Dipstick tube going into the block? Im beginning to think my major oil leaks are comming from elsewhere rather than the rms.

cruiser54

Leave it plugged in and backprobe the connector.

DESERTXJ206

Ok well the 90 is running great, About that dipstick tube, is ther an oring or is it just compression fit in there? Im getting oil leaking out of it.

cruiser54

Compression fit. You building up crankcase pressure?

Kris smith

Glad to know this worked my jeep has been doing this since i got it its been pissing me off i did the iac and it stoped for a few months so now its time for the ground soldiers and the tps replace

cruiser54

Go for it. Report back.

DESERTXJ206

How would i be able to tell? Oil in the air filter?

I did notice my throttlebody had gotten dirty since I cleaned it about 4 months ago. Iv sprayed out the small plastic line going from the back of valve cover to the intake.

What more should i do to find and repair the crankcase pressure.