sickostuk

Just Blew my 4.0l in my 98xj, was wondering if a motor from 89xj 4.0l would work, would i basically just have to swap the whole ecm system?

bryweb

Stolen from elsewhere because Google is easier and I am too lazy to go take a picture



All the Best,

bryweb

I am not sure....but I think you would have to swap your intake, sensors, fuel injection, but I could be wrong.

I would read the 4.0 section on the Wiki Article and compare http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AMC_straight-6_engine , personally I would want a newer motor... but that should work.

Bryan

DirtyBomb

i know im bringing up an old thread but I have one question that I cant find the answer to. I have a toasted 2000 motor and a healthy 96 motor that I planned on swapping in. im using the 2000 intake with a borla header no issues with that but do I have to swap in the coil pack ignition? I would rather leave the distributor setup on it just so I don't have to do timing. is there any reason why it wont work?


also my 96 is mated to a 5spd and going into the 2000 with an auto, will there be any issues there?

bryweb

Since I don't have personal experience with either situation, all I can do is give you my opinion from the (3) 96 motors I installed in 2000 Cherokees in the last year.

Regarding the Coil Pack I THINK because of the ECU (computer) you will have to go with the Coil Pack and Camshaft Position Sensor (which goes where the distributor was), you might be able to swap computers but then you are going to probably have transmission issues and who knows what other possible problems. Beyond that personally I think the coil packs are a better option. Is it possible to do it... probably but not worth the headaches.

Regarding the 96 motor with a 5 spd going in the Automatic Cherokee, beyond having to swap out everything behind the Crankshaft at the back of the motor which is not a big deal. I DON'T THINK it is a problem putting a manual motor in an auto vehicle..... I think it will work, but there might be a problem visa-versa, something to do with the "Pilot Bushing" hole on a 4.0 with an Crankshaft for an automatic not having the right size hole.

Read these;

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/wil...manual-104497/

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/man...bearing-51107/

Good Luck,

Bryan

mackmxz

Hi. I just joined the site but came across your thread regarding your engine swap from a 96 xj to your 00 xj. there is a lot of information out there over what fits and what doesn't but most of which is overwhelming with no definitive answers. do you know if a 98 tj engine will work with a 00 xj? i know i will run into the exhaust manifold, camshasft position sensor, and coil pack mount issues but ill everything else swap over? accessories and intake manifold, motor mounts?

bryweb

I have not done it personally, but I did buy an 96 XJ motor that was put in a 97 TJ then removed and put in my 2000 XJ. So it should work.

I am sure you are like me, looking for that one person that has done it themselves. Not that I heard of someone that did it. Wish I could help more.

I have now done (3) 96 XJ motors in 2000 XJ's myself so that I can testify to what works and what does not in that regards..... getting ready to do a 98 XJ motor into a 2000 XJ this week. Which as you said is.... Cam Sensor, Coil Pack Mount, and get a header so the exhaust fits over the bigger exhaust ports (someone use to sell a plate to do it - yuck, and you could use the 96 exhaust manifold but then your screwed on the (4) 02 sensors that are used before and after the Pre-cats if yours comes that way (I had one 2000 that did not)

All the Best,

Bryan

mackmxz

thanks Bryan. Ill let you know if it works out. I have one other question I have been trying to research. When you swapped over your cam position sensor from your distributorless junk motor to the older block with the distributor, did you have any issues? In order for the car to run properly did you have to take it to a dealer?

If not can you give me a brief explanation on how to swap it over with out issue?

I truly appreciate your help.

bryweb

That is probably one of the most difficult parts is setting the Cam Sensor.

I have read that you need to take it in the shop, but I never have.

I put the motor #1 Cylinder (front) at TDC (Top Dead Center) of the compression stroke (feeling the air push out) - you can use a flash light into the spark plug hole to see the piston come to the top of the stroke or stick a pencil in the hole and go slow until you start to feel it. (I have read not to back it up if you go too far, but to continue another stroke and try again - I don't think it matters)

Then put a toothpick/pin or something through the holes to hold the sensor in place as seen in the below picture(you will see a hole in the inner part that spins) and put it in the distributor hole facing the same way it was on the old motor (usually wiring pointing at the firewall) and tighten the bolt that clamps it in - but still allow cam sensor to twist (REMEMBER TO PULL THE PIN) then put the cap on it. Once running I just twist it a little and listen for when it runs the best (kind of what I use to do with Distributors) then final tighten it.

bryweb

PS: I found that old fashion Small Block Chevy starter shims work great for the Coil Pack brackets, I had some old ones and had to trim the top angle a bit and drill the hole bigger, but they were the easiest by far to work with.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...FYZi7AodexcAxg


NOTE: On the Coil Pack I use a bolt up from underneath and usually cut the old sleeves (arrows) for the bolts the height of a bolt head 3/8" (or it will keep the coil from going all the way down - be careful not to cut the spark plug boot) then use a nut at the top (so bolts don't fall out when you put the coil pack on the plugs, then slip the shim/bracket on that goes from the coil pack to the valve cover stud, then use another nut so the shim is between two nuts. You also might want to consider a ground strap as well... I never have yet..... but keep meaning too.

PS: Remember to use the intake (w/throttle body and all its sensors) that was part of the Jeep the motor is going in, I use very thin layer of #81878 Ultra Copper Permatex on the advice of an old racing buddy on both sides of the intake/exhaust gasket when assembling it. I think all the brackets are basically the same, but I usually swap everything over to the new block and head to be safe. Be careful on the 4 bolts the hold A/C compressor to the bracket, they like to snap.... try soaking them with PB Blaster a couple of times before starting, and use Anti-seize on them when reassembling. Also I always unbolt the A/C, Power Steering, Condensor, etc leaving the hoses on them and just use a bungy to hold them to the side.

And the exhaust header, there are a couple of bolts that are murderous to get started from underneath... it can be done but it may take 2 hours just to get them 2 bolts in. This time I am going to try to bolt the exhaust header on before going in the Jeep (I think you might be able to start the 2 bolts/washers and then slide the header in - but not sure). I have used both the old version Rugged Ridge stainless header and the Ebay ($140 best offer) stainless header and I swear they are identical and both worked well. - next time I am going to wrap the headers as I have had heat soak issues on one motor where it will run rough sometimes if you start it hot until you give it a little gas.

mackmxz

Bryan,
Thank for all the advice and input. Also for taking the time to write out all the details. This information will be very useful and make the swap much easier. Ill let you know how I make out and hopefully I wont have any more questions.

bryweb

No worries, Good Luck.... and remember to share how the TJ motor goes in the XJ.

It will be good not to use 0331 head again, NOTE: My daughters runs great with Neon 784 Injectors swap (with RR header and flowmaster muffler), I am looking forward to doing my jeep this week, it will have a Spectre Cold Air intake, eBay header, flowmaster, and the Neon Injectors and it should be a great combo with the better breathing 0630 head that comes on the earlier motors.

mackmxz

Did those exhaust manifolds bolt right up to your factory exhaust from the 2000? If so can you maybe send me a link to the manifold you got off eBay that will work with the 0630 head from the motor going in and the existing exhaust system in the 2000?

bryweb

Yes if you have the two precats it will bolt right up to the exhaust.

This is the eBay seller and what I believe the same header $153 currently I paid $175 almost a year ago (the ad for the one I purchased is no longer available). http://www.ebay.com/itm/00-06-JEEP-W...e3bb5e&vxp=mtr

These felt and look identical to the Rugged Ridge one I bought 2 years ago for my daughters Jeep, she has about 20K miles on it, its been wheeled, it has towed a trailer at least 3K miles and is still good.... just had the bolts going to the precat loosen up once. But with that said I heard Rugged Ridge redesigned it because of too many complaints (maybe I did ok because I used the Permatex Ultra Copper) Got me..... NOTE: the first one I got from them was welded wrong in the JIG and hit the intake.... So check fit before bolting it all together.




Then the Rugged Ridge One

gibby56

Just double checking before I order a set of these headers. Lost a piston skirt on #6 cyl on my '01. I have a '97 4.0 out of an xj to replace it with and for obvious reasons I would rather not re-use '01 head. Even tho it states on the ebay ad this header fits '00-'06 it will for sure cover the exhaust ports on the '97 engine?
Concerning the tj swap, it is my understanding that only cherokee, any year, or grand cherokee up to 98 will work due to engine mount bolt pattern.