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2001 A/C rebuild advice

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Old 06-20-2021 | 02:22 PM
  #1  
Slackdaddy's Avatar
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From: Southern MD
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Default 2001 A/C rebuild advice

Just what we need, another A?C thread
Anyhow my situation:
Bought a 2001 XJ 3 years ago, with a blown engine.
All of the under hood A/C components looked VERY new, Compressor, lines, dryer all looked less than a year old.

I disassembled everything and threw everything in a cardboard box and put it in the attic.

I installed a new evaporator coil in the HVAC box when I replaced the heater core.
I installed the newer used compressor when I rebuilt the engine,, at some point I put tape over the ports.

Now I pulled the rest of the stuff out of the attic and see that I did not cap ANY off the ports/lines,,,

- What can be easily blow out/cleaned VS what should I replace with NEW?? Dryers are ~15-20 so I assume I'll replace that,,
- Wan the condenser be blown out??,, or just replace it with a $50 unit from rock auto?
- Are there any brand of condensers and dryers to stay away from?
- Can I clean out the compressor to get any potential bugs, dust out of it??

- Since I will have a new dryer, can the compressor be cleared of oil? so I can start with all new proper amount of oil??

Thanks,
Slack
Old 06-20-2021 | 11:24 PM
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Year: 2000
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Engine: 4.0
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I have had good luck with GDP products. I would also check oil level, does not hurt to double check.

Old 06-20-2021 | 11:48 PM
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Since the PAG oil absorbs so much moisture from the atmosphere you'll want to flush the system out and put in fresh stuff. (Unfortunately that moisture doesn't come out when pulling vacuum.) That should be done just before pumping down the system to minimize exposure. Since you're just wanting to get old oil out of the condenser and evaporator it should be no problem flushing those out. Dryer needs to be replaced and should be open to atmosphere for as little time as possible. Dump old oil out of the compressor but don't flush it. When putting new oil in distribute it between the compressor and other components. Use fresh oil from an unopened container. After everything is assembled pull vacuum for at least 1/2 hour (longer is better) and make sure when the pump is turned off that vacuum is retained. Any leaks would have to be tracked down and fixed, usually it would be at joints. I like to use Nylog on o-rings and fittings to prevent leaks.

You basically want to keep as much moisture out of the system as possible. It combines with the R134a refrigerant and creates acids which eat tiny holes in metal parts such as the evaporator.

I have to install a new evaporator in my own XJ but have not had time to take the dash out. What brand did you use and were any any modifications needed for it to fit?
Old 06-21-2021 | 08:18 AM
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Thanks for your reply.
I installed a Omix Evap coil (Item# 17951.11 ) It was a direct fit with no mods needed.
I DID have to pull the plugs out of the tubes to install it, but then put them back,, it has been sitting installed and plugged for a year now.

I installed a new evap coil,, and for $60 I think I will install a new condenser coil, and of course a new dryer,
So that leaves "flushing" the lines and hoses.
What is the best way to flush those?

It was my understanding that pulling the vacuum "boiled" off the moisture ?

Thanks for the guidance

Originally Posted by Rambler65
Since the PAG oil absorbs so much moisture from the atmosphere you'll want to flush the system out and put in fresh stuff. (Unfortunately that moisture doesn't come out when pulling vacuum.) That should be done just before pumping down the system to minimize exposure. Since you're just wanting to get old oil out of the condenser and evaporator it should be no problem flushing those out. Dryer needs to be replaced and should be open to atmosphere for as little time as possible. Dump old oil out of the compressor but don't flush it. When putting new oil in distribute it between the compressor and other components. Use fresh oil from an unopened container. After everything is assembled pull vacuum for at least 1/2 hour (longer is better) and make sure when the pump is turned off that vacuum is retained. Any leaks would have to be tracked down and fixed, usually it would be at joints. I like to use Nylog on o-rings and fittings to prevent leaks.

You basically want to keep as much moisture out of the system as possible. It combines with the R134a refrigerant and creates acids which eat tiny holes in metal parts such as the evaporator.

I have to install a new evaporator in my own XJ but have not had time to take the dash out. What brand did you use and were any any modifications needed for it to fit?
Old 06-21-2021 | 09:11 AM
  #5  
agreen's Avatar
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I use brake cleaner. Shoot some in the line, blow through with compressed air. Catch the runoff in a white rag, and repeat it comes out clean. The orifice tube is in the high pressure line, which should probably be replaced. I can't remember if the XJ has a non-replaceable orifice tube though, so you might have to purchase the whole line if that's the case.
Old 06-21-2021 | 10:24 AM
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I'm pretty sure the orifice tube is embedded in the line and is not separately replaceable. Normally I'd say it's a good idea to replace that while doing major service, but if it's a recent part it's not really necessary.

I've read that unlike the old mineral oil used with R12, absorbed moisture doesn't separate from PAG oil under vacuum. Also by flushing and using fresh oil you know you're starting out with the correct amount in the system, which is a good thing.

Pretty much any solvent that doesn't leave residue and won't cause damage can be used for flushing. However I use flushing compound made for the job along with a kit that uses an air compressor to push it through. (A drier should be used on the air outlet of the compressor. I use a couple of them in series.) I've seen flushing kits that use pressurized cans but haven't tried those.

Oh, and Slackdaddy, thanks for the tip on the Omix evaporator, nice to know something that will just drop into place. It's a big enough job without having to wrestle with an evaporator that's an approximate fit. I'm considering installing a copper heater core (obviously best to replace that while in there). They're expensive ($200!) but should provide better heat than the inexpensive aluminum jobs.
Old 06-21-2021 | 01:36 PM
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When I rebuilt my HVAC box, I used a copper heater core,,,
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Copper-...item28b2f55899

It was the ONLY one on all of the internet,, When I received it it was "OK" looking quality wise,, but I did rig up some short pieces of hose, fittings, pipe and gauge and put about 25# of air in it and left it in a bucket of water for 2 days, no leaks.
But installing it was a pain,, I had to bend the tubes,re-drill the mount screw, etc.. So much that once I had it shaped to where it dropped in,, I re-air tested.


Originally Posted by Rambler65
I'm pretty sure the orifice tube is embedded in the line and is not separately replaceable. Normally I'd say it's a good idea to replace that while doing major service, but if it's a recent part it's not really necessary.

I've read that unlike the old mineral oil used with R12, absorbed moisture doesn't separate from PAG oil under vacuum. Also by flushing and using fresh oil you know you're starting out with the correct amount in the system, which is a good thing.

Pretty much any solvent that doesn't leave residue and won't cause damage can be used for flushing. However I use flushing compound made for the job along with a kit that uses an air compressor to push it through. (A drier should be used on the air outlet of the compressor. I use a couple of them in series.) I've seen flushing kits that use pressurized cans but haven't tried those.

Oh, and Slackdaddy, thanks for the tip on the Omix evaporator, nice to know something that will just drop into place. It's a big enough job without having to wrestle with an evaporator that's an approximate fit. I'm considering installing a copper heater core (obviously best to replace that while in there). They're expensive ($200!) but should provide better heat than the inexpensive aluminum jobs.
Old 06-21-2021 | 01:58 PM
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This is the copper heater core I've been looking at, it's more expensive than the Vista Pro on ebay but I wonder if it's a better fit:

https://www.superiorcooling.co/48740...-wrangler.html

From what I've seen they make these heater cores up in batches periodically and there are times when they're sold out.
Old 06-21-2021 | 03:19 PM
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I saw those when I did mine,, but they were unavailable at the time.

Originally Posted by Rambler65
This is the copper heater core I've been looking at, it's more expensive than the Vista Pro on ebay but I wonder if it's a better fit:

https://www.superiorcooling.co/48740...-wrangler.html

From what I've seen they make these heater cores up in batches periodically and there are times when they're sold out.
Old 06-21-2021 | 04:04 PM
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Yeah, Superior sells out of them then if you want one you have to wait for the next batch. I have no idea if they're worth the higher price versus the ebay item, will have to look into that more and think about it. I'm probably not going to get to the job until next spring at the earliest. (I have other vehicles with working AC so it's not a priority and I have a bunch of other projects to get to.) I'll see what's available at that time. I could buy one now while they're available but it would be just my luck to have a problem with it after it's been sitting around for nearly a year.
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