Greetings!

I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4WD. I want to change the front rotors and pads as well as the rear pads. How difficult is it? I have a 3 tonne vehicle lift and a set of jack stands. Is there any detailed instruction or video? Should I also flush and replace the brake fluid while I do this? Is that a difficult job? Is there a DIY guide for flushing and replacing brake fluid?

Regards,
Karthik

 

The front pads are easy - I'm sure there are numerous youtube videos on it.

The rear shoes are a little more difficult since you aught to replace the hardware if you're doing the shoes, but it's certainly doable.

You don't have to bleed the fluid to just change the pads and shoes, but if you don't know how old the fluid is, it might be a good idea to flush it. Search for videos on bleeding the brakes and bleed the fluid out at the calipers and wheel cylinders.. by the time you're done you should have all the old fluid out.

A lot of folks will use a turkey baster and cycle out most of the old fluid (being careful not leave enough to prevent air from getting into the system) and add new fluid.

 

The rear brakes made not need replacing. I took mine out (converted to disk) at 250k and they were still fine. Even with offroading trips where I know mud got on there.

For the fronts, just replace the calipers while you are at it. They're less than $30. You will have to bleed all the brakes, make sure you can get the rear bleeders loose before doing it. I found with mine (when it was drums) that melting a candle around the threads, letting it cool, then breaking it loose by giving it some sharp taps on the end of the wrench with a hammer did the trick even though they looked rusty.

This way you get unsticky front sliders (they like to lock up) and new fluid.

 

Greetings PatHenry! Thank you very much for the response.

Regards,
Karthik

 

BooGTS, thanks for the kind response. My Jeep has 150K miles. So, just as a precaution should I change the rear pads and bleed the fluid?

Regards,
Karthik

 

I would, why do it halfway ??? Not that hard at all !!! As they said above,,, Youtube videos ,,, hit the pause button as ya go !!! Next time you'll be a seasoned veteran !!!

 

You got it! Really straight forward, plenty of good youtube videos on the subject as well.

I would actually recommend bleeding your brakes, no reason to do a job 85% if you are already getting dirty. If you do the rear drums, (I recommend you do, again don't do a job @ 85%) pick up a brake retaining spring tool. Tool is cheap and makes life easier. Also, if it is your first time doing drum brakes, take plenty of pictures with your phone as you take it apart.

Finally, if you plan to continue doing brakes, buy a mityvac. It cuts your bleed time in half at least and makes it a single man job. And again, plenty of good youtube videos on operating a mityvac.

 

Thank you very much for the information. I will follow your advice.

 

Calipers are a good idea to replace, but mine are still fine at 270k miles. I would replace the front soft-lines for security (might as well go with braided stainless lines).
Be VERY VERY careful cracking stuck brake bleeders and fittings, you might snap the fitting. Use penetrating oil and heat and do not apply too much torque. Tapping with a hammer to break the rust-bond also helps.

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For pads, look at Akebono Pro Act pads - they are great for a daily driver. I am running PowerStop Z36 Extreme (GG friction rating) and they did increase my initial bite considerably. Also make sure you use brake pad abutment clips (Google if you are unfamiliar), and grease the Sliders and moving surfaces thoroughly to prevent brake noise.

Buy Centric premium rotors (same as Napa) or any rotors with an anti corrosion coating on then, and any cheap rear drums if yours can't be turned. Paint the rear drums if you buy them new and they are bare steel.

Flush the brakes, use Valvoline Synthetic DOT 3/4 if you can find it. Start with right rear, then LR, then RF, then Left Front.

The drum brake shoes are a pain. Make sure you pick-up a new hardware kit (springs, adjuster wheel, etc). Now is a good time to replace the rear brake cylinders if they are rusty or leaking any fluid.

And lastly, inspect your brake lines 20+ years of salt and corrosion will take its toll on anything steel, and brake lines can and will leak if not corrected.
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One thing people don't mention when you do pads and rotors is ensure the cap is LOOSE for the brake fluid res and put a rag around it. When you compress the calipers fluid will flow back into the reservoir and can possibly leak.

 

One other thing! If you buy new rotors, it's a good idea to spray them with brake cleaner to remove the shipping preservative. That stuff can glaze the pads and make them more difficult to break in.

 

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Brake cleaner is a MUST for new rotors. That packing stuff will eat up your new pads if it's not removed, beyond the aforementioned safety factors.

 

Thank you very much investinwaffles.

 

Thank you firebane.

 

Thanks again PatHenry.