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2001 Nobus (engine runs fine)

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Old 01-07-2016, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Jay Hyland
CCKen??

Did you go back to the same store to have the code(s) read? If so, try a different auto parts store. If they have the same results take it to a Jeep dealer and have them put their DRB III Diagnostic tool on it.
Old 01-07-2016, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by sikkev
If you haven't already, go to the cpm on the left side of the engine bay and disconnect the middle connector and turn your ignition on (not to start) if your gauges come up, the cpm may very well be the problem. Or the connection to the cpm may just be a little corroded.
I just did this. The gauges did work... problem is that I broke the top plastic tab/clasp when removing so I now have to search for a new male end and swap the pins. Sure hope I can find one.

I am going to clean everything up shortly and and return feedback Monday since I have to work all weekend.

Tanks a bunch
Old 01-07-2016, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by CCKen
Did you go back to the same store to have the code(s) read? If so, try a different auto parts store. If they have the same results take it to a Jeep dealer and have them put their DRB III Diagnostic tool on it.
Hey CCKen... I was going through withdrawal for a minute.

I actually took it to a guy at a Toyota dealership. I was referred to him because he use to work at a Jeep dealership and there was an available quid-pro-quo deal. The thought of paying $110 for what is a 3-5 minute task just nauseates me, but at this junction I suspect I have no choice.

I work all weekend so I will probably take it up there sometime Monday/Tuesday for a diagnostic.

I called a place in Midlothian, VA called Advanced Auto Electronics (804) 427-1111 that I found on this forum... they really know their stuff. They seem pretty sure that it is more likely a communication issue. They suggested that I sand the terminals down. Although the terminals had been clean and sanded once before, I did it again to no avail.

Notwithstanding it would appear the issue is either the PCM or Cluster or the communication between the two. You mentioned the airbag might be the issue. Can you explain...

Last edited by Jay Hyland; 01-12-2016 at 11:29 AM.
Old 01-15-2016, 03:33 PM
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OK guys....

The verdict is in. It is an air bag module.

I was not able to get the vehicle into shop until yesterday. They called me a minute ago and stated the airbag module is the problem. $150 for the diagnosis and $378 for the additional repair.
Does that sound about right to you guys?
Old 01-15-2016, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay Hyland
OK guys....

The verdict is in. It is an air bag module.

I was not able to get the vehicle into shop until yesterday. They called me a minute ago and stated the airbag module is the problem. $150 for the diagnosis and $378 for the additional repair.
Does that sound about right to you guys?


What additional repair? Replacing the ABCM?
Old 01-15-2016, 07:19 PM
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The air bag module
Old 01-16-2016, 07:09 PM
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Chrysler dealers should waiver the diagnostics fee if they get the job of fixing it. Insist upon it.
Old 01-19-2016, 02:44 PM
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OK guys... update..

They had my vehicle over the weekend and I went to pick it up on Monday. They told me they would disconnect the module until the part came in. This would allow me to drive the vehicle without the no bus issue. Only the airbag light would be on.

By the time I got home the light was back on.. so it is obviously not the air bag module. I took it back that evening and I spoke with the foreman who, at length, when on to tell me that he wanted to replace the instrument cluster connectors first and then go from there. I reiterated what I have already done, and he simply stated that Chrysler states he has to start there.

Asked if this didn't solve the problem would I be held harmless for the repair his answer was a curmudgeonly "no"

In essence, I am paying a premium for them to guess the fault away. I can do that ll by my self so I am picking up my vehicle.

I think I am going to start with having the cluster refurbished. If that doesn't work, then I will go the PCM route.

How does that sound guys?
Old 01-19-2016, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay Hyland
OK guys... update..

They had my vehicle over the weekend and I went to pick it up on Monday. They told me they would disconnect the module until the part came in. This would allow me to drive the vehicle without the no bus issue. Only the airbag light would be on.

By the time I got home the light was back on.. so it is obviously not the air bag module. I took it back that evening and I spoke with the foreman who, at length, when on to tell me that he wanted to replace the instrument cluster connectors first and then go from there. I reiterated what I have already done, and he simply stated that Chrysler states he has to start there.

Asked if this didn't solve the problem would I be held harmless for the repair his answer was a curmudgeonly "no"

In essence, I am paying a premium for them to guess the fault away. I can do that ll by my self so I am picking up my vehicle.

I think I am going to start with having the cluster refurbished. If that doesn't work, then I will go the PCM route.

How does that sound guys?

What light was still on? The Airbag light?


Cluster refurbished? Where and by whom? Get one from Ebay or the junk yard. Don't forget that the 2000/2001 instrument cluster has a Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) - small amber engine icon, as opposed to the "CHECK ENGINE" lamp....if it matters to you.

Last edited by CCKen; 01-19-2016 at 04:31 PM.
Old 01-20-2016, 12:34 AM
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The airbag always accompanies the "no bus" fault. The check engine light has not been coming on like it use to.

Of course, the airbag light stayed illuminated when they disconnected the airbag module this last time. What I notice right before a failure is the oil gauge buries at 80psi followed by the gauges failing and then the "no bus". I have established that upon initial start-up in the morning all works fine. after 10-15 miles of driving then the fault occurs. Gauges return to normal after 4+ hours of sitting.

I was going to go to Advanced Auto Electronics, Inc in Midlothian, VA (804-427-1111). They were recommend within this forum and I have had several conversations with them that convinces me they know their stuff, have a history with this issue and are trying to mitigate costs. Very accommodating. They advised me that they will put my cluster on a bench check and hope to find a failure. There is the off chance they find nothing immediately faulty in which case they will swap mine out with another swapping over the milage ect.

I will keep the icons in mind - thanks for the tip

The good news is that the dealership is refunding my money.

Last edited by Jay Hyland; 01-20-2016 at 12:37 AM.
Old 02-11-2016, 04:49 PM
  #41  
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PROBLEM FIXED.

Took the cluster to Advanced Auto Electronics and they did their thing and all appears working. Thanks for your help guys.
Old 06-30-2018, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay Hyland
PROBLEM FIXED.

Took the cluster to Advanced Auto Electronics and they did their thing and all appears working. Thanks for your help guys.
I know this thread is a little old. I'm starting to get the nobus issue. More frequently these days. I know there are a few potential solutions but I'd love to know what the final solution was in this case so I can prepare for it if necessary. Every other issue I've had has been the worst case scenario it seems so why would this be any different....

Thanks
Old 06-30-2018, 11:59 PM
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Not withstanding the aforementioned trouble-shooting, once I took it to Advanced, they did whatever they do (buss board repair, resistor replacement, repairing weak solder point, etc) and it fixed my problem. I am not sure what remedy they applied to the cluster while in their custody but they fixed it.

I tried contacting them a few months ago to no avail and I believe they’re out of business. I would think a search for electronic repair technicians, specifically automotive, should provide other repair folks
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