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2001 rough idle, tired everything I could find

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Old 03-05-2022, 09:39 AM
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Well I sprayed propane all round the intake and it made no difference. Pulling the injectors just causes a dead miss and I couldn't really tell any difference from pulling one to the next. I don't think the engine is missing that much, just something is making it shake a lot. When ever my foot is off the throttle, it shakes. Cold, hot, coasting down the road, if I'm not pressing the throttle, its not running right.
Old 03-05-2022, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Idratherbewheeling
You cant tell what the base timing is without the crysler scan tool because the computer controls all of that but moving the cam sensor definitely changes the timing. I had it come loose on the highway and it rotated about 20 degrees and killed the engine.

I would agree that they probably should be synced but as far as I can tell, the only people around here that can do that is the dealer. I'd rather not pay them to do that and not have it fix this issue.
You can sync it yourself with an entry level oscilloscope. I use a Hantek::

Old 03-05-2022, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Idratherbewheeling
...moving the cam sensor definitely changes the timing.
Well again, I do not KNOW what exactly what happens when it gets out of sync but perhaps so.

CPS/CKS out of sync:


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Old 03-05-2022, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Idratherbewheeling
I don't think the engine is missing that much, just something is making it shake a lot. When ever my foot is off the throttle, it shakes. Cold, hot, coasting down the road, if I'm not pressing the throttle, its not running right.
Maybe it's not the engine per se.

Time to think out of the box...

MIL light burned out?
Old 03-05-2022, 10:02 AM
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Oh also that ^^^ was 2 separate thoughts...
Old 03-05-2022, 10:10 AM
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The check engine light works. It turns on for a second when I cycle the ignition.
Old 03-05-2022, 10:15 AM
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2000+ uses all 4 oxygen sensors to determine fuel mixture so maybe wait till you get ELM327, read the O2 sensor voltages and see what shakes (LOL!) out.
Old 03-05-2022, 10:23 AM
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But it sure sounds like vacuum to me (too). Did you check everywhere? Brake booster? Some of those tubings that disappear into oblivion?
Old 03-05-2022, 10:33 AM
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And rather than guessing I would measure it.
Old 03-19-2022, 10:54 AM
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I have a rough idle too when warm and it gets worse when in gear. What are you thinking that means.
Originally Posted by agreen
Don't mess with the timing advance. Leave it at the factory spot.

Aside from the injectors and spark plugs, what all is new?
O2, plug boots, motor mounts? (the sorts of things you should have put in new when you swapped the engine)
Does it get worse when you put it in drive and are stopped?
Did you clean up the ground points?
Are there any codes?
Do you have access to a code scanner that reads live data?
Old 03-19-2022, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave51
2000+ uses all 4 oxygen sensors to determine fuel mixture so maybe wait till you get ELM327, read the O2 sensor voltages and see what shakes (LOL!) out.
Beware that the cheap chinese mass-produced ELM327 Bluetooth readers do not work properly for newer vehicles. They're the squarish, often clear blue plastic housing ones for under $5. I have one of them I bought for $3 off eBay, which reads my older Tacoma fine, but totally freaks out the 2014 Cherokee trying to connect, causing all kinds of errors to popup on the screen because it doesn't do canbus correctly. The "car scanner" software on my phone even calls it out as one of the "bad" fake modules.

I looked at some review sites and bought a Tonwon brand (same as V-Link) BLE 4.0 Bluetooth reader last week and it works perfectly with all my vehicles with "car scanner" and "torque light".
Amazon Amazon

Meanwhile, the cheap $20 Centech reader from Harbor Freight still works fine to pull codes, and gets loaned out quite frequently.
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