2001 XJ: Do Cherokees have crapy brakes?
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Model: Cherokee
2001 XJ: Do Cherokees have crapy brakes?
I've recently purchased my first XJ (2001 4x4)...I have noticed that the brakes just plain suck. It's scary to slam on the brakes in traffic when the guy in front of you makes a dumb decision, etc, etc...
My question is, do all Cherokees have "smushy" brake feel and trouble stopping quickly? Thanks
My question is, do all Cherokees have "smushy" brake feel and trouble stopping quickly? Thanks
#2
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Most do, my girlfriends 96 is an exception but everything brake wise in hers is new. She has almost no brake travel, very positive pedal.
My 97 has a little bit of "smush" and my 89 had alot.
In all of them though, the front end likes to dive, taking weight off the rear and making it squirrely.
My 97 has a little bit of "smush" and my 89 had alot.
In all of them though, the front end likes to dive, taking weight off the rear and making it squirrely.
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
stock, oem parts that have milage on them do probably kinda suck... it seems also common that the rear reaks, unless adjusted well, dont do ****... when it gets wet, cherokee breaks work well... at least they get grabby like a **** star on X... i just had all 4 fully replaced on mine, they work well, but still have a kinda soft feel... however, they still need to be adjusted, the rears deffinatley... if it doesnt pull funny, or squeal, you can prob. improve your breaks pretty cheap...
also my rotors are just the plain, flat face... all said and done: 460 w/ labor
also my rotors are just the plain, flat face... all said and done: 460 w/ labor
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Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
no car should have....
no car should have "smushy" breaks, just like the rest of the car the entire system should be inspected and maintained regularly...but most(including myself) just do repairs when they arise...
if you have some time check a few things out...we often change our break pads or shoes but we forget about the other items that age over time/use...
of course there is the obvious:
age and wear of pads/shoes
leaks at the reservoir
dirty/slick rotors/drums
but here are some not so obvious:
the flexible lines in the wheel wells cans get weak and cause some similar problems...check for bulging lines, small leaks at connectors, and pitting corrosion
also break fluid can be worn down and should be a clear/tan color to a light brown ...to check take some out of reservoir and put in to a clear jar use a flash light to shine through the fluid...the less light that travels through the fluid the more worn out/aged the fluid is.... and if its dark brown like pancake syrup or black than it needs to be changed....
look for leaks at distribution blocks along the under carriage...these can leak over time as well...
dont forget to check your rear drums(if you have them) they may need adjusting....
i am sure there are other things but this should be a good start....
if you have some time check a few things out...we often change our break pads or shoes but we forget about the other items that age over time/use...
of course there is the obvious:
age and wear of pads/shoes
leaks at the reservoir
dirty/slick rotors/drums
but here are some not so obvious:
the flexible lines in the wheel wells cans get weak and cause some similar problems...check for bulging lines, small leaks at connectors, and pitting corrosion
also break fluid can be worn down and should be a clear/tan color to a light brown ...to check take some out of reservoir and put in to a clear jar use a flash light to shine through the fluid...the less light that travels through the fluid the more worn out/aged the fluid is.... and if its dark brown like pancake syrup or black than it needs to be changed....
look for leaks at distribution blocks along the under carriage...these can leak over time as well...
dont forget to check your rear drums(if you have them) they may need adjusting....
i am sure there are other things but this should be a good start....
#6
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The stock brakes are not the greatest. And when you put 31" tires on they seem even worse-you learn to start giving yourself as much room as if your driving a loaded truck.
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Year: 2001 2-door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
After putting 31's on my XJ, I got a rude dose of reality when I almost rearended my buddy's XJ. Decreased braking power, takes some getting used to. It made me understand why a rear disc brake conversion was so popular.
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Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
gosh makes me wanna keep to stock tires...but that will look silly when i do a 3 inch lift...my daily drives are full of the delightful stop, go and cuss....
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
make sure your gonna be happy w/ th 3" lift... i guess it depends on what driving your doing, but if you can, a 4.5 has many benifits to the 3"... aside from costing alot more, of course...
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Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
yup, but its my DD so i dont want to go too far...but i still want to be able to have some fun in the woods.....if i ever come across a few extra dollars i will have build up a dedicated wheeler...thanks for the advice
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Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
For the OP, is your jeep stock??
for a stock, not lifted XJ on stock tires, your jeeps brakes should not be "squishy," and they shouldnt be scary.
When I got my XJ it was stock with crappy pads and rotors. I had to push the pedal farther down than other cars I own, but it stopped fine.
If your brakes scare you, then take it to the shop and have them fixed
for a stock, not lifted XJ on stock tires, your jeeps brakes should not be "squishy," and they shouldnt be scary.
When I got my XJ it was stock with crappy pads and rotors. I had to push the pedal farther down than other cars I own, but it stopped fine.
If your brakes scare you, then take it to the shop and have them fixed
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Two problems with these brakes systems that most people will overlook that will cause long pedal travel -
First and most common - Rear brake shoe adjusters that are not adjusting properly. Starwheel is seized or the adjuster is worn out.
Second - warped rotors. The warp will cause the front pads to open wider than they should and that will require additional travel to get them to where they should be.
(Air in the lines can also do it, but if you've never run the reservoir dry, or screwed up bleeding the brakes, it's probably not the cause.)
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
brake systems must be maintained not just repaired ,best brake upgrade is getting rid of the single diaphram booster if equiped going to the dual makes the biggest change here im runnig 38s on a renix all new brakes i can lock up the tire if not carefull
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