I saw that a couple people referred to a burning smell. What causes that? I've got a 1990 with 240K mi and I recently changed the tranny fluid a couple times and I think that might be what I'm smelling (that or some left over undercoating spray that I accidentaly got on the exhaust). I have an automatic AX. I first changed it and put synchromesh in to try and clean it a little (plus its yellow metal safe), and then bought Redline MTX. I couldn't find the stock DexII anywhere so I read that Redline makes some good stuff that's yellow metal safe. I'm about to take the Jeep on a 13hr drive in a couple weeks and thought I might want to check on that first..thanks

 

Kinda the way I loom at it and I may be completed wrong and if so someone please correct my "logic" of thinking. The AW4 has a screen for a filter i.e. Larger holes versus a paper filter, that actually filters. This difference leads me to believe that the AW4 with the screen filter should have larger fluid channels running through the transmission and maybe larger tolerances on some mating parts since it doesn't get refined as much as a transmission with a paper (for lack of a better word) filter. This makes design sense to me, why would an easily cloggable transmission have a screen for a filter? With that being said, I think you would be fine doing what the two guys above said. Change it a couple times allowing any grime to be diluted within the new fluid while the new fluid cleans. I don't think are as at great a risk with your transmission as you would be with another, paper filter type.

When you change it, don't beat it, drive respectively and allow the fluid to gradually clean. If you drive it hard, it will work harder and a clod of junk may break off. Think of it as polishing the grime from walls rather than chiseling.

 

Don't use Dex II use DexIII.

DO NOT use ATF+4. The dealeship says that b/c that's what their other cars run. Before ATF+4 (when these XJs were new btw) it was DEXIII.

Don't think ATF+4 was even existing in 01 much les during other previous years lol..

 

sooo if I do a couple partial changes should i change the filter and clean the pan after the last change??

 

You can if you want but the filter on the AW4 is simply a screen. A terribly abused transmission may necessitate filter replacement, but if you get to a point where the fluid stays RED and the transmission shifts fine, I wouldn't bother.

 

thanks walker .I am starting this in the am

 

Black fluid is a bad sign. Personally, rather
then draining the pan 4 or 5 times, I
prefer the "let the granny pump do the
work" method.
Disconnect the upper transmission line
from the radiator. Push a 4-5 foot length
of hose onto the fitting on the radiator
and drop the other end in a 5 gallon
bucket.
Tips: A length of old 5/8" garden hose
works for this. Use a worm clamp to hold
the hose on the fitting. Trust me, you
don't want this coming loose. Place a 3"
C- clamp or some other contraption on
the rim of the bucket to hold the end of
the hose a couple inches inside the top of
the bucket. Again, you don't want this
coming loose.
Stick a decent sized funnel in the fill tube
for the tranny and arm yourself with 8-10
quarts of the proper ATF. Now you need a
helper.
Have the helper start the engine and
keep their foot on the brake. As soon as
they do, your old black fluid will start
coming out of the hose into the bucket.
Your job is to pour new fluid down the fill
hole at the same rate its coming out of
the hose. Don't worry about being exact,
just keep the funnel full. Keep watch of
the fluid going into the bucket. It should
start looking better. After your first
gallon, have your friend, with e-brake and
foot brake both applied, shift through the
full range of gears, stopping for about a 4
count at each spot. Once he's at the
bottom, he can put it in Park for the rest
of the process. When you see nice red
fluid coming out of the hose, stop filling
the funnel and let it empty. About 5
seconds after it does, have your friend kill
the engine.
Hook everything back up. You've just
done a complete, or nearly complete
change of your fluid, including all that sits
in the torque converter! This method is a
" forward flush" as apposed to a "reverse
flush" that many shops do. The forward
flush I'd far less likely to damage all the
seals in the tranny and is gentler on
things as it uses the tranny's own pump
and normal operating pressures to do the
flush!
Once you're done and everything is
buttoned up, take it for about a 15 mile
drive to get everything up to full hot.
Check and top off your fluid as necessary.
This method is also done all top side, so
its easier to stay clean, doesn't require
crawling under there on your back, or
trying to change all the fluid 3 quarts at a
time by draining the pan multiple times.
Macgyver35 deserves the credit for this
write up. Hope this helps. But be
prepared for some fun though.
Good luck!