33s
#91
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 543
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 soon to be gc ho 4.0
I stand corrected....but if i stayed stock i would stay stuck in the same situations where i was high centered at times the extra 4.5 inches helps....regardless of the driver in situations....and i agree i wheeled stock with long travel shocks and some extended bumpstops and i did much better that some of my buddies with 6 inches on their xjs...though i had clearance issues that showed all over my bumpers, t-case x member, and other aresa i know that if you lift 20 inches the diffs will only increase clearance from tire size....lifting only raises chassis and body....you can bash a diff on rocks stock w/ 33s or with 6 inches of lift w/ 33s its the departure angles that are different and i know some would rather stay low and some would rather be lifted....if you lift you gain clearance period. my bumper was 5 inches higher than stock after my lift now does that mean it is better than a stock hieht xj with good setup? no...i will agree you can wheel stock very well or with lift...I PREFER LIFTED thats all i like the way my jeep performs better than my stock setup with 33s and long travel shocks....just me i guess.... im just glad there are a few guys on this topic that are mature enough to debate the fact after they have done both stock setupo and lifted.
#92
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 543
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 soon to be gc ho 4.0
i am now convinced to go with 37s when i re gear and put lockers front and rear....time to cut and weld some sheet metal. I can be an idiot sometimes....i didnt pay attention to the fact that every pro rock buggie ive seen has hardly no lift. sits low....hmmmm im scratchin my head now...lol i guess its just so typical for most to wanna jack it up as high as possible and stuff the biggest tires they can and people all agree and follow the idea....i guess lol then some clever people change minds...lol thanks for letting me in on the info
#93
i am now convinced to go with 37s when i re gear and put lockers front and rear....time to cut and weld some sheet metal. I can be an idiot sometimes....i didnt pay attention to the fact that every pro rock buggie ive seen has hardly no lift. sits low....hmmmm im scratchin my head now...lol i guess its just so typical for most to wanna jack it up as high as possible and stuff the biggest tires they can and people all agree and follow the idea....i guess lol then some clever people change minds...lol thanks for letting me in on the info
That'll allow you to slide over stuff easily at a low height.
IMO, you should set up your rig to adapt to the terrain you wheel. For mudders, high lift and big tires work well. For rockcrawlers, low COG and tall tires does the job. For the average wheeler, mid height lift with some beefy tires. For the northern snow wheelers, TALL AND WIDE and lift to fit works for them. Choose your terrain and then choose your setup.
#94
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 543
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 soon to be gc ho 4.0
not a big deal but thats gotta be heavy lol nah i just do alot of woods with mud and lots of rock its a mixture i think 35-37 with some more trimming and adequate drivetrain mods to accomodate big heavy tire will probly satisfy all my wants and need for the terrain we normally wheel here,......
#95
not a big deal but thats gotta be heavy lol nah i just do alot of woods with mud and lots of rock its a mixture i think 35-37 with some more trimming and adequate drivetrain mods to accomodate big heavy tire will probly satisfy all my wants and need for the terrain we normally wheel here,......
#96
hit it with some speed!
thats what i do when i see an obstacle i may not have the clearance for, just try to get the momentum to slide over it. i built my front bumper at an angle to help "ramp" the front end over obstacles and it works well. My rear bumper crushed itself pretty high clearance and every so often my taillight gets crushed on a rock on the ground, but if i had more lift than i do, i will not have completed as many offcamber or uphill obstacles with the same ease, and not have had the guts to attempt as many obstacles.
this is the only and last trip i had a 6" lift on.
when i gave it any sort of throttle the front passenger tire would just rise into the air. this is the same exact line i took previously with less lift.
thats what i do when i see an obstacle i may not have the clearance for, just try to get the momentum to slide over it. i built my front bumper at an angle to help "ramp" the front end over obstacles and it works well. My rear bumper crushed itself pretty high clearance and every so often my taillight gets crushed on a rock on the ground, but if i had more lift than i do, i will not have completed as many offcamber or uphill obstacles with the same ease, and not have had the guts to attempt as many obstacles.
this is the only and last trip i had a 6" lift on.
when i gave it any sort of throttle the front passenger tire would just rise into the air. this is the same exact line i took previously with less lift.
#97
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 990
Likes: 4
From: Washington State
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
You guys have taught me a few things here, but I have one question that may or may not be off topic. What about spring under axles. I'm sure this would play into it a bit.
#98
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,671
Likes: 10
From: LI, NY
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, bolt ons for days...
#99
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 990
Likes: 4
From: Washington State
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Hear me out. What if you took a longer spring with slightly more arch and only a few leafs. Kinda like what the toyota guys do with the chevy springs. But in this case you could have the axle over the spring. It makes sense to me. Wouldn't this allow you to keep the rig lower but yet have the articulation you want? Like I said before, if its not then just say off topic no need to blast with a crude comment like "You make 0 sense"
#101
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 990
Likes: 4
From: Washington State
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
So I wasn't off base with the idea. Thought it may be another option for keeping the rig low but still having the articulation from a longer spring. What about the longer leaf spring setup with the axle in the stock position. That would probably work way better, I can see the point your making.
#102
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 543
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 soon to be gc ho 4.0
i really dont want to get into this again but like i said im not gonna floor it and slam into everything hoping i "slide" over stuff. Thats how i tore stuff up all the time (diffs, t-case x-member, bent front x member at bottom far enough to rub crank pully) these things happend with no lift. i have no issues off road unless i rub against body on rocks and trees from time to time...im sure ill break stuff again with a lift but i choose not to ram stuff to slide over,,, I rarely get stuck, because i carefully plan my route in my head before i try obstacles...just not for me... lol
#103
i really dont want to get into this again but like i said im not gonna floor it and slam into everything hoping i "slide" over stuff. Thats how i tore stuff up all the time (diffs, t-case x-member, bent front x member at bottom far enough to rub crank pully) these things happend with no lift. i have no issues off road unless i rub against body on rocks and trees from time to time...im sure ill break stuff again with a lift but i choose not to ram stuff to slide over,,, I rarely get stuck, because i carefully plan my route in my head before i try obstacles...just not for me... lol
my t-case crossmember and skis is 1/4" plate
my diffs have solid and rock krusher covers.
nothing hangs below my axle tubes.
im not too worried about tearing anything up. it's just my preferred wheeling style. It works for me. the times i don't have that kind of clearance are few and far inbetween as well. I never have to do it. If i see an obstacle i wanna give a go and i know i'll be using my skids, ill give it a little finesse to get over
#104
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 543
Likes: 0
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 soon to be gc ho 4.0
i hear ya. i just prefer not to have 600 lbs (im exagerating) worth of skids...lol i could make tham but dont need them...i could buy them but really cant afford them...i like slow wheeling with some finess....i see your point though. again. i like my lift and will keep it. im glad you all like your set ups. i like mine. thanks for the good debates im done this is never ending and im one of the reasons it keeps going...lol im done!!!! haha
#105
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 543
Likes: 0
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 soon to be gc ho 4.0
i have the solid covers too! and by the way i know the skids dont make a big diff in wieght...i was joking. ill proly build a flat under belly skid outa some quarter inch aluminum and make it hinged below my rock sliders for cleaning and maitenence....as well as detachable....i loved the one my buddie built on his 4runner....