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33s on stock axles mostly mud

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Old 06-14-2010, 02:44 PM
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i've wheeled my cherokee really really hard for four years with 31x11.5 swampers on my jeep with the d35 in the rear end. it took a beating like crazy and i never broke it until the end. it is a good axle as long as you keep it under control.... i have a heavy right foot, and blew the dowl pin right out if it. now i have a welded 29 spline 8.25 and i am also building a d44 for my cherokee right now.

i think you will be ok it you dont use the skinny pedal like crazy
Old 06-14-2010, 02:44 PM
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oh. and i now have 34's on my jeep.... the 35 will take a beating...... atleast from my experience
Old 06-14-2010, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by gmsween
oh. and i now have 34's on my jeep.... the 35 will take a beating...... atleast from my experience
you must be one of a very few people that had a d35 work for them. we had a customer snap a shaft and ring and pinion driving in our parking lot. they bend easily and ring and pinion are complete crap. they are the #1 axle we work on in the shop.

if you wheel DO NOT LOCK IT!
Old 06-14-2010, 02:53 PM
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Find an 8.25, they are cheap and bolt in directly. I ran 33's on a D35 and just kept bending axle shafts. I also broke one d30 outer stub shaft with 33's other than that the d30 can handle the abuse. Ditch the d35, if you do keep it carry spare axle shafts.
Old 06-14-2010, 03:38 PM
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I ran 32's on a D35 non c-clip for years in some moderately hard rocky trails without failure. It comes down to how you drive.. and luck.

Mud usually takes wheelspeed to navigate.. that cuts down your chances of success. Swap in a plentiful 8.25 before having to deal with extracting a broken rig.
Old 06-14-2010, 04:20 PM
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yea. i dont think that they are the best axle.. lol.. crap.. but for some people they last. i guess its just one of those things that you might luck out on. i was at badlands adn there was a guy with 36 iroks on his d35 and he said he had a built 44 waiting to go in and he was trying to break the rear and couldnt do it. i think it all comes down to luck. i ditched the turdy five for my welded 99 c8.25 and i am gunna ditch that too. lol. i hope to go fullsize shortly. just have to save up the money between college, rent and every other bill im payin. i think he will be road worthy with a 35 but it you will it, then just bolt in the 8.25. its cheap and its nice to know that you have a stronger rear in there.
Old 06-14-2010, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by gmsween
yea. i dont think that they are the best axle.. lol.. crap.. but for some people they last. i guess its just one of those things that you might luck out on. i was at badlands adn there was a guy with 36 iroks on his d35 and he said he had a built 44 waiting to go in and he was trying to break the rear and couldnt do it. i think it all comes down to luck. i ditched the turdy five for my welded 99 c8.25 and i am gunna ditch that too. lol. i hope to go fullsize shortly. just have to save up the money between college, rent and every other bill im payin. i think he will be road worthy with a 35 but it you will it, then just bolt in the 8.25. its cheap and its nice to know that you have a stronger rear in there.
more then likely this is right. but my question is, since there are many different rear axles you can choose from, why press your lock with a crappy axle?
Old 06-14-2010, 09:33 PM
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naw. i know what you mean.. you shouldnt want to put it on luck, but like i said there are still alot of people out there that the 35 works great for them. i have had nothing but great experiences with it. personally in my opinion. on 33's i wouldnt trust the 35. but 31's i would. with that 33, you just have too much rotational mass
Old 06-15-2010, 09:20 AM
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the problem with the d35 is they're mostly c-clip.
i wheeled my xj with 33's for a couple years on the d35. then i found my d44.
but i still have 2 tj's with d35 on 33's. just don't bounce it when you're stuck or if you can't make it up a steep hill and you should be fine.
it's all how you wheel.
Old 06-15-2010, 01:08 PM
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I'm running 33's on stock axles in my 88 right now. No problems yet, i've been running em for about 6 months, and i go mudding a lot.
Old 06-15-2010, 01:20 PM
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My d35 was non c clip and I couldn't break it. It did have alloy usa shafts but both shafts bent were the wheel stud flange is. I drove it like that for over a year with 33's and still couldn't break it, just got sick of the wobble. It's totally luck with the d35.
Old 06-15-2010, 01:45 PM
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I would just go for finding yourself a D44 or even easier a CH 8.25 that you can just bolt right in from a JY or local CL listings.. heck I am actually thinking of picking up a spare 8.25 in case I blow mine up wheeling.. at least until I can find a good deal on a set of full size axles...
Old 06-15-2010, 02:16 PM
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if money is an issue and you really want a slightly better rear axle, you can pick up a 8.25 for under $100 most likely, which will handle 33s better than the d35. The d30 will be fine
Old 06-15-2010, 04:22 PM
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Go get a set of 95+front axles with the 297/760 ujoints for the front, and like others said be looking for a D44 meanwhile pick up an 8.25 should be plenty around since cash for clunkers. Also I recommend NOT using wheel spacers get a set of wheels with the correct backspacing if you havent already.
Old 08-03-2010, 12:34 AM
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IM running 36in TSLs on my 89 with stock d30 and d35. WITH a welded rear end. Its a mud/trail truck and dosent see much road time. but also i guess it depends what kinda terrain you will be in. if its mostly swampes and flat trails. it works great... ive had NO axle issues... yet knock opn wood


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