Yeah, that's what I'm starting to think, both have lasted with a few quirks, but I can live with that.
I'm starting to realize as I do more research just what I'm getting myself into, especially considering I don't have that much money to accomplish such a task. I may have to stick with just doing the bare minimum for now and upgrade later.
Thanks, I'll definitely be looking into it.

 

It's looking like I may just have to do that, I really don't have a good place for an engine to sit around long enough to rebuild it properly.

 

Looking like I may have to go that route, they go about the same around here.
Thanks

 

So for now it looks like I'll leave the tranny and t-case alone for now, praying they'll last, and I may have to just cross my fingers on a junk yard or parts engine. Any particular engine year to look for and/or little things here and there to change/replace/check while its out? Would it be better to switch to a newer engine with coils instead of a distributor, I've heard newer XJs had a factory flaw with the material of the pistons causing them the crack.

 

As far as maintenance and prolonging the AW4, there are a lot of better folks than myself. Cruiser54.com may have tips (or if he advises something, it's probably the best thing to do.

I'm a manual tranny guy - I'd take an AX15 even if it was worse quality than the AW4 just because I like driving stick.

The NP242 may be "weaker", but it does come down to simply more things to break than the simple and effective NP231 - both are excellent units though.

Honestly, you can be proud of your XJ at stock specs because it's an XJ - there's nothing like it available today and the fact there are stil so many on the road is testiment to the fact that they are awesome vehicles.

Find a good, low mileage engine and put it in for now and if you decide to enhance it later - it will be an option.

I'm biased, of course, I fell in love with the XJ when my Dad had his - to this day he still says that the XJ was the best vehicle he ever owned and he's gone through many toyota cars, a new 4runner, a new Rav4 and his current vehicle a purchased new Tacoma.
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Get a distributor engine - 94-99 are all great years.
Yes the 00-01 engines had a defective head. Research 0331 casting defect for more info.
Cruiser's sticky on engine compatibility is the definitive reference.

 

A 94-96 will be a direct swap. I'd look for low mileage as the deciding factor.

 

I like having a standard as well, stronger, more giddy-up, control, the like. Though I must say its a bit more refreshing not having to worry about shifting through Denver metro rush hour traffic after a 4-2 hour day. Though I'm sure there's something up with my Ranger's tranny to make it a little less pleasant at times. It likes to hesitate just before entering a gate like it hits something and then it'll throw into gear, more profoundly on 1st, 2nd, and 3rd.
That's what I was thinking, I'm sure the 242 will be better for a much milder, pretty rig, but now with what you've said I think I'll keep the 231 in ol' Lupo just for that reason, less things to break and one less thing to do.
I agree, this 94 was my first vehicle bought two years ago and I intend to keep it with me as long as I can, its just a great rig, though I wouldn't mind smoking the rebadged Fiats running around every now and then XD. Quirky and frustrating at times but its almost become a part of who I am now. Plus I'll never get back the amount of money I've put into it so might as well keep on crawlin'.

 

Alright, be good for my situation just trying to do a direct drop in.
So theoretically, if you replaced the head and made sure the cam, rods, bearings, the like were all good, the 00-01 engines would be good? My reason for asking is curiosity of the ignition coils and intake being better as a tuner engine in the way future.
Sounds like a plan.

 

Actually the New Process t/cases are pretty rugged. They've been used for years in many other vehicles. I had an NP 205 in my 87 Chevy truck. Full sized 4x4. I was running 33's with stock gearing and a fire-breathing 350 that would turn them if I asked it to.

 

Intake can be swapped. I use the distributor on my set up, I intercept the crank sensor for timing retard. If you want individual coils for megasquirt look up akaxauto. I think he outlined how he did it

 

considering a mildly beefed up version of the NP/NVG242 is/was used in the HMMWV (H1 Hummer) I wouldn't sweat its use in an XJ.

 

That's actually pretty sick when you really think about it

 

Just for your edification, the coil rail ignition on the newer 4.0 is a "waste spark" system in which 2 plugs fire every revolution, one on compression and one on exhaust. This was done to reduce emissions by burning any fuel-air charge that made it out of the cylinder without being burnt. This is one reason the cats are small on these engines and the exhaust manifolds are cast iron because of the heat. You should stick to a distributor for simplicity and not having to deal with finding a PCM that's compatible. Actually, the intake ports and passages are smaller in the 0331 head, but are straighter going into the valves. This redesign was the reason weak spots were cast into them. The later intake manifold flows better than the early one however. A bored throttle body and 4-hole injectors will round out the set-up nicely.

 

Where are you getting that info from?