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4.5inch vs 3 ?????

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Old 12-16-2010 | 08:41 PM
  #31  
tacoleman93's Avatar
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From: South
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Jeepability
thanks man i plan on lifting it after i fix my leaks
good luck, mine leaks average for anything with almost 200k miles, just keep clean oil in her and give her hell
Old 12-16-2010 | 08:42 PM
  #32  
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From: cape cod ma.
Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0 i6
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oil leaks keep the oil clean and the body solid
Old 12-16-2010 | 08:43 PM
  #33  
Jeepability's Avatar
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From: South Georgia
Year: 1998
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yea i have the basic leaks and i almost have 200k miles on mine. i wish i could have got it brand new hmmm
Old 12-16-2010 | 08:47 PM
  #34  
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Year: 1998
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i"m at 187k...i call it mid life
Old 12-16-2010 | 10:43 PM
  #35  
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From: Allentown, Pa
Year: 1994
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Engine: 4.0L HO
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My Jeep with the 4.5" Rough Country lift and Procomp 33" tires:




Some things to know before you purchase you kit:

- As with any lift, be prepared for ANYTHING to break. I made the mistake of starting my lift on a Tuesday afternoon before a holiday and broke a bunch of stuff doing it. I was out of my Daily Driver for a while.
- I love my Rough Country lift, but it rides very stiff. A lot of people don't like stiff riding vehicles, but I absolutely love it. I'd rather have a stiff ride than a soft one any day.
- Do as much research on installing the lift as you can. The more knowledgable you are on the subject the easier everything will be. Plus, researching on these forums will help you know what's most likely to break when doing the lift and how to overcome those broken parts.
- Most likely parts to break are: Rear upper shock mount bolts, leaf spring eye bolts (More so front eyes than rear), front spring retaining clip bolts, and transfer case crossmember bolts/studs. Be prepared for this. If you need help with fixing any of those broken bolts, I can help. I broke all of them haha. Damn rust. My Jeep doesn't have any rust holes, but everythings rust welded together...
- Don't do the lift install in a place that the Jeep can't sit for a while. If you break something and need to wait to get a replacement part, you're going to block whatevers behind the Jeep 'cuz your most likely not going to be able to move it anywhere.
- Absolutely, no exceptions, get the leaf spring full pack upgrade. It's really not that much more and it will last 1,000x longer than an AAL. Plus, they usually add a bit more lift than an AAL, simply because they're new and haven't sagged.
- I also added the NRC9000 shock upgrade and shock boots to my lift order. It's not necessary, but I would recommend it. Again, it's really not a lot of money but it goes a long way.
- See if you can find some nice larger tires used somewhere. A 4.5" lift with stock tires looks stupid... I know from personal experience. Again, not needed, but recommended.
- Don't cry when you finish the lift and realise how much that 4.5" lift lifted your rig. I had lifted my Jeep up as far as my jack and jack stand would go as a "joke" with my cousin. We both joked about "What if I actually lifted it this high???" When the lift was said and done, I lowered the Jeep about a half inch to the ground. I was so happy I wanted to cry... I wanted to lift the Jeep for YEARS but never thought I would actually get it done. It was my dream =) I also had 31's on the Jeep before and during the lift.

Here's a pic of stock tires on my Jeep with one of my 33's next to it. It hurts my pride to much to show a full pic of the Jeep with stock tires on it.... It's embarassing. Trust me...
Old 12-16-2010 | 11:51 PM
  #36  
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From: Coquitlam, B.C.
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by TheJerm
You may or may not need a t-case drop or SYE. Depends on the jeep, each is different, but newer (97+) tend to need them much worse than older ones.

Also idk if that came with axle shims, i couldnt open up the bigger pic


(Quote from http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/o...l-read-426483/ )
The worst possible setup you can have is a 96+ with an auto transmission, a NP242 transfer case, and an 8.25 rear axle. This combo makes for a long drivetrain and the 8.25 pinion housing is also quite long. These factors will leave you with a short rear driveshaft and even a 2" lift will see negative affects from it.
Old 12-17-2010 | 01:28 AM
  #37  
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From: ny upstate the woods
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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the stock tire thing is pretty funny looking now 4" looks stupid 7" is just down right wrong
Old 12-17-2010 | 02:24 AM
  #38  
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: i6 4.0l
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if you're serious about wheeling and not just looking for the cool factor, getting a 3" AND taller tires would be your best bet. if you're running a 4.5 lift and 31" tires... your still pretty low to the ground that lift really isn't doing anything except looking cool
Old 12-17-2010 | 05:29 AM
  #39  
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From: dingmans Ferry, PA
Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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i put the 4.5 rubicon express super flex kit...it comes with everything but a new pitman arm...its a little expensive but well worth and i spent the couple of extra bucks to go for the better leaf springs not the add-a-leaf...only issue them is that their bushings suck...check them out
Old 12-17-2010 | 07:02 AM
  #40  
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From: Columbus, Ohio
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
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Originally Posted by alloutperform
mine is a 4.5... just remember you get what you pay for the more expencive kits will be more complete..roughcounty uses alot of stock stuff and hardware..:
Umm... what stock hardware? some of the bolts?
Old 12-17-2010 | 07:05 AM
  #41  
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From: Florida
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Just for info did a 3.5" RE that measured 4" without SYE. Have not tried 32s but the 31s work fine.
Old 12-17-2010 | 07:50 AM
  #42  
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From: cape cod ma.
Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0 i6
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Originally Posted by Donnie_K
Umm... what stock hardware? some of the bolts?
i just did a rough country kit on a grand cherokee for a customer 3.5in and it was a great kit.......but it just had me drill a hole to correct the track bar, it came with a rinky dink t-case drop,and i had to reuse almost every stock bolt, which is fine if they come apart ok......good for the money but if you look at what the kit includes the better ones have more parts...... compare:

http://www.ntwonline.com/84-01_JEEP_..._P8454C880.cfm

http://www.ntwonline.com/84-01_JEEP_..._P8456C880.cfm
Old 12-17-2010 | 07:54 AM
  #43  
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Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0 i6
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Originally Posted by spiceman
if you're serious about wheeling and not just looking for the cool factor, getting a 3" AND taller tires would be your best bet. if you're running a 4.5 lift and 31" tires... your still pretty low to the ground that lift really isn't doing anything except looking cool
not to be a dink but...incorrect: a 3in with bigger tires will have less room for flex only a good theory if you want to hack the body to death or are playin in the mud..a 4.5 with 31s works very well in trails i did it for a while before moving up to 32s
Old 12-17-2010 | 09:18 AM
  #44  
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heres my put together lift.. i have the rc adj control arms and track bar, bds front springs, 2.5in ome leafs with shackles, no sway bars, skyjacker tc drop. then just put the 32's on it and it drives better then it did stock.
4.5inch vs 3 ?????-cropped.jpg
Old 12-17-2010 | 10:44 AM
  #45  
XJeepWerks's Avatar
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From: Allentown, Pa
Year: 1994
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Engine: 4.0L HO
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Originally Posted by oldcolt75
the stock tire thing is pretty funny looking now 4" looks stupid 7" is just down right wrong
Haha, you've gotta get some real rubber under that thing!!!


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