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4th Gear to the Floor???

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Old 09-27-2010 | 06:01 PM
  #46  
alpine.adrenaline's Avatar
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From: 9000 ft, CO
Year: 1999 XJ
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L
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Originally Posted by drakesword
I have 33s with the stock 3.07 and a manual. No problems. Get 22 mpg 50/50
Horse****.
Old 09-27-2010 | 06:48 PM
  #47  
krawlthis's Avatar
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From: Here, There, Everywhere
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2
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Originally Posted by alpine.adrenaline
Horse****.
maybe he ment to hit 23's instead of 33's. lol. there is no way hes getting 22mpg with 33's
Old 09-27-2010 | 06:56 PM
  #48  
truckntractorhick's Avatar
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From: Harleysville, PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 Powertech
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i got a stick and i can get that only going 65 unloaded with a tailwind!
Old 09-27-2010 | 10:00 PM
  #49  
drakesword's Avatar
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Model: Cherokee
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Just filled up.

353.6 miles
16.663 gallons

21.221 Mpg. Been a bit wet for the past few days.

Tires are 33x12.50R15 AT not MT
1) On the highway I don't go past 57 MPH.
2) Shift at 2100 rpm dont try to accelerate below 1400 rpm.
3) When going up hill slow down a bit you can get the speed back when you come down the other side.

Haven't done any drafting yet but I bet I could bump it up a bit.


It also helps to keep your engine in good running shape. I have 50wt racing oil. Flush and fill each time. Oil runs about 70 psi at 1200 rpm.

Valve cover recently cleaned and gasket replaced with a proper (metal core) one. Cleaned the the ever lasting **** out of the intake manifold.

Most of vacuum was eliminated (no egr either)

There's a small vacuum leak at the booster but I dont think its enough to make it run lean.


Don't call horse **** until you come down here and see my numbers!
Old 09-28-2010 | 08:07 AM
  #50  
dbcox's Avatar
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.o
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Originally Posted by drakesword
Just filled up.

353.6 miles
16.663 gallons

21.221 Mpg. Been a bit wet for the past few days.

Tires are 33x12.50R15 AT not MT
1) On the highway I don't go past 57 MPH.
2) Shift at 2100 rpm dont try to accelerate below 1400 rpm.
3) When going up hill slow down a bit you can get the speed back when you come down the other side.

Haven't done any drafting yet but I bet I could bump it up a bit.


It also helps to keep your engine in good running shape. I have 50wt racing oil. Flush and fill each time. Oil runs about 70 psi at 1200 rpm.

Valve cover recently cleaned and gasket replaced with a proper (metal core) one. Cleaned the the ever lasting **** out of the intake manifold.

Most of vacuum was eliminated (no egr either)

There's a small vacuum leak at the booster but I dont think its enough to make it run lean.


Don't call horse **** until you come down here and see my numbers!
Holy crap 50wt oil? Thats way to thick, no wonder you got 70psi at 1200 rpm. Thats not really a good thing,to much oil pressure can affect the flow. you wont have good flow cause you got all pressure. Rule of thumb is 10lbs per 1000 rpm.
Oil type... Thickness at 75 F...Thickness at 212 F

Straight 30...... 250......................10
10W-30............100......................10
0W-30..............40 ......................10

Straight 10........30....................... 6

You can see the 0w-30 is your best protection when cold. look at the 212 temp numbers. All 3 top oils have the same warm temp properties and your best mumber when cold is the 0w oils
Old 09-28-2010 | 08:46 AM
  #51  
drakesword's Avatar
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Originally Posted by dbcox
Holy crap 50wt oil? Thats way to thick, no wonder you got 70psi at 1200 rpm.
Dont think its too much of a problem. Oil pressure reg doesn't let it go higher. It drops considerably when it warms up.

I have had issues with cooling in the past and the heavier weight helps keep it lubricated if it heats up too much. With a standard 30 wt my oil pressure gets to about 5 lbs at 220oF. I switch to a lighter weight in the winter for sure. Also I believe that the thicker oil will help keep oil where it will need it . . . Head and rings.

The engine itself has over 330,000 on it and it seems happier with heavier weight. Its also Valvoline.
Old 09-28-2010 | 12:55 PM
  #52  
dbcox's Avatar
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.o
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Originally Posted by drakesword
Dont think its too much of a problem. Oil pressure reg doesn't let it go higher. It drops considerably when it warms up.

I have had issues with cooling in the past and the heavier weight helps keep it lubricated if it heats up too much. With a standard 30 wt my oil pressure gets to about 5 lbs at 220oF. I switch to a lighter weight in the winter for sure. Also I believe that the thicker oil will help keep oil where it will need it . . . Head and rings.

The engine itself has over 330,000 on it and it seems happier with heavier weight. Its also Valvoline.
Most believe that pressure = lubrication. This is false. Flow = lubrication. If pressure was the thing that somehow lubricated your engine then we would all be using 90 weight oil. Lubrication is used to separate moving parts, to keep them from touching. There is a one to one relationship between flow and separation. If you double the flow you will double the separation pressure in a bearing. The pressure at the bearing entrance is irrelevant.
In fact the relationship between pressure and flow is in opposition. If you change your oil to a thicker formula the pressure will go up. It goes up because the resistance to flow is greater and in fact the flow must go down in order for the pressure to go up. They are inversely related. Conversely if you choose a thinner oil then the pressure will go down. This can only occur if the flow has increased.
High flow does more than lubricate. It is one of the things used to cool the hottest parts of your engine, the pistons, valve areas and bearings. This cooling effect is as important as lubrication in your engine. If your engine is running hot use a thinner oil. The flow will increase and so will the cooling. This is even more important in the racing condition.
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/anyt...rari-chat.html
Good reading but very long, also mine has 241k on it i run 5-30
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