4wd won’t disengage
#1
4wd won’t disengage
NP242 on a 1999 XJ classic
Just purchased it with the front driveshaft removed knowing it wouldn’t disengage. Part time light stays on with the lever in 2wd, there is a 4 pin round connector that is unplugged. I put it in neutral and the driveshaft won’t spin freely. I know nothing about this thing and could use some help and suggestions. Thank you!
Just purchased it with the front driveshaft removed knowing it wouldn’t disengage. Part time light stays on with the lever in 2wd, there is a 4 pin round connector that is unplugged. I put it in neutral and the driveshaft won’t spin freely. I know nothing about this thing and could use some help and suggestions. Thank you!
#2
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Its is virtually impossible to get my 242 to change out of part-time 4wd (orange light). IF it is on a hard surface
In my case, it is essential to move all 4 wheels on to a slipping surface, such as dirt, gravel or grass
Then it will be easy if you follow the instructions which exist in the handbook or on this forum, or Google in general
Basically, when on loose surface, place TRANS in neutral, that should allow you to move the transfer case into 2wd
It may take a bit of gentle revving, move (auto trans) R-N-D, try the lever a few times, it will pop out of 4wd part time
You must not drive it far at all on hard surfaces when both axles are locked together (part time), as it will bind (and prevent you changing out)..or worse
4wd full time (green light) is good for anything except hardcore, changes much easier, can be driven on hard surfaces
The instructions dont mention you must be on a loose surface to change out of 4 locked, maybe you can with brand new linkage
Just do what I said, and it will be magically fixed
In my case, it is essential to move all 4 wheels on to a slipping surface, such as dirt, gravel or grass
Then it will be easy if you follow the instructions which exist in the handbook or on this forum, or Google in general
Basically, when on loose surface, place TRANS in neutral, that should allow you to move the transfer case into 2wd
It may take a bit of gentle revving, move (auto trans) R-N-D, try the lever a few times, it will pop out of 4wd part time
You must not drive it far at all on hard surfaces when both axles are locked together (part time), as it will bind (and prevent you changing out)..or worse
4wd full time (green light) is good for anything except hardcore, changes much easier, can be driven on hard surfaces
The instructions dont mention you must be on a loose surface to change out of 4 locked, maybe you can with brand new linkage
Just do what I said, and it will be magically fixed
#3
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Firs t off, make sure it's full of fluid.
Shifting the NP/NV242J Selec-Trac Transfer Case
2WD Position
This position is for driving on hard-surfaced roads under normal driving conditions when 4-wheel drive is not desired.
4x4 PART TIME Position
This position is designed for temporary use of 4-wheel drive when on-or off-road conditions such as deep snow or heavy ice require increased traction. When engaged, both the front and the rear axles are mechanically locked together and turn at the same speed. Do not use 4x4 PART TIME on dry, paved roads.
To engage, shift transfer case from 2WD to 4x4 PART TIME while the vehicle is moving at any legal speed.
An amber PART TIME lamp will illuminate on the instrument cluster when 4x4 PART TIME is selected.
4x4 FULL TIME Position
This is the primary 4-wheel drive position, which offers better traction when roads are wet, snow covered or icy. When engaged, the front and rear wheels axles are permitted to turn at different speeds to enhance maneuverability. Use 4x4 FULL TIME year-round on all road surfaces if you wish.
To engage, shift transfer case from 2WD to 4x4 FULL TIME while the vehicle is moving at any legal speed. When shifting, do it in a swift and firm movement.
When shifting from 2WD through 4x4 PART TIME to 4x4 FULL TIME, two momentary releases of the accelerator may be required after shifting.
A green FULL TIME lamp will illuminate on the instrument cluster when 4x4 FULL TIME is selected.
4 LO Position
This position is designed for temporary use of 4-wheel drive when off-road conditions require added low speed pulling power. Do not use 4 LO on dry, paved roads.
To engage, slow the vehicle to 2-3 mph (3-5 km/h), shift the transmission into Neutral (N), then shift the transfer case lever to Neutral, then to the right and pull firmly rearward to 4 LO.
Never attempt to engage Low Range when the vehicle is moving faster than 2-3 mph (3-5 km/h). Transfer case damage may result.
An amber PART TIME lamp will illuminate on the instrument cluster when 4 LO is selected.
Shifting the NP/NV242J Selec-Trac Transfer Case
2WD Position
This position is for driving on hard-surfaced roads under normal driving conditions when 4-wheel drive is not desired.
4x4 PART TIME Position
This position is designed for temporary use of 4-wheel drive when on-or off-road conditions such as deep snow or heavy ice require increased traction. When engaged, both the front and the rear axles are mechanically locked together and turn at the same speed. Do not use 4x4 PART TIME on dry, paved roads.
To engage, shift transfer case from 2WD to 4x4 PART TIME while the vehicle is moving at any legal speed.
An amber PART TIME lamp will illuminate on the instrument cluster when 4x4 PART TIME is selected.
4x4 FULL TIME Position
This is the primary 4-wheel drive position, which offers better traction when roads are wet, snow covered or icy. When engaged, the front and rear wheels axles are permitted to turn at different speeds to enhance maneuverability. Use 4x4 FULL TIME year-round on all road surfaces if you wish.
To engage, shift transfer case from 2WD to 4x4 FULL TIME while the vehicle is moving at any legal speed. When shifting, do it in a swift and firm movement.
When shifting from 2WD through 4x4 PART TIME to 4x4 FULL TIME, two momentary releases of the accelerator may be required after shifting.
A green FULL TIME lamp will illuminate on the instrument cluster when 4x4 FULL TIME is selected.
4 LO Position
This position is designed for temporary use of 4-wheel drive when off-road conditions require added low speed pulling power. Do not use 4 LO on dry, paved roads.
To engage, slow the vehicle to 2-3 mph (3-5 km/h), shift the transmission into Neutral (N), then shift the transfer case lever to Neutral, then to the right and pull firmly rearward to 4 LO.
Never attempt to engage Low Range when the vehicle is moving faster than 2-3 mph (3-5 km/h). Transfer case damage may result.
An amber PART TIME lamp will illuminate on the instrument cluster when 4 LO is selected.
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tlc1976 (01-19-2024)
#4
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Here's how the factory suggests you shift the transfer case and I've been doing this since these things were new and I worked at the dealership. Quoted from the owner's manual. The suggestions in CAPS are mine.
"To engage, shift the transfer case lever from 2H to 4H while the vehicle is moving at any legal speed". I LET OFF THE GAS, THROW THE LEVER, TAP THE GAS AND LET OFF.
4L position: " To engage, slow the vehicle to 2-3 MPH , shift the transmission to Neutral, then shift the transfer lever to the right and pull firmly rearward to 4L".
TO SHIFT OUT OF 4L, SHIFT THE TRANSMISSION INTO NEUTRAL WITH THE VEHICLE STOPPED, SHIFT THE TRANSFER CASE LEVER TO 2H, THEN THE TRANS TO D IF YOU HAVE AN AUTOMATIC, OR INTO FIRST GEAR WITH A MANUAL, AND CONTINUE ON.
"To engage, shift the transfer case lever from 2H to 4H while the vehicle is moving at any legal speed". I LET OFF THE GAS, THROW THE LEVER, TAP THE GAS AND LET OFF.
4L position: " To engage, slow the vehicle to 2-3 MPH , shift the transmission to Neutral, then shift the transfer lever to the right and pull firmly rearward to 4L".
TO SHIFT OUT OF 4L, SHIFT THE TRANSMISSION INTO NEUTRAL WITH THE VEHICLE STOPPED, SHIFT THE TRANSFER CASE LEVER TO 2H, THEN THE TRANS TO D IF YOU HAVE AN AUTOMATIC, OR INTO FIRST GEAR WITH A MANUAL, AND CONTINUE ON.
#5
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Here's how the factory suggests you shift the transfer case and I've been doing this since these things were new and I worked at the dealership. Quoted from the owner's manual. The suggestions in CAPS are mine.
"TO SHIFT OUT OF 4L, SHIFT THE TRANSMISSION INTO NEUTRAL WITH THE VEHICLE STOPPED, SHIFT THE TRANSFER CASE LEVER TO 2H, THEN THE TRANS TO D IF YOU HAVE AN AUTOMATIC, OR INTO FIRST GEAR WITH A MANUAL, AND CONTINUE ON.
"TO SHIFT OUT OF 4L, SHIFT THE TRANSMISSION INTO NEUTRAL WITH THE VEHICLE STOPPED, SHIFT THE TRANSFER CASE LEVER TO 2H, THEN THE TRANS TO D IF YOU HAVE AN AUTOMATIC, OR INTO FIRST GEAR WITH A MANUAL, AND CONTINUE ON.
For me, engage is ok, but nothing on earth will allow to shift out of Part while on a hard surface, its already bound, must move on to surface that allows some slip
My shift parts would be worn, there is very hard green plastic bush in there, I dont know where to get a new one, but everything works fine so long as I follow my procedure
#6
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I’ve got manual and 231. 4 LO I’m always stopped. No exceptions.
4 HI, to shift in, I push in the clutch, shift into 4 HI, then release clutch.
To shift out, I first make sure I’m going straight for some distance to relieve any bind. Even on a loose or slippery surface, if you’re on a curve there is some bind in there, unless perhaps you’re on pure ice. Then, I push in the clutch, shift out, wait a second or two until I can feel it’s out, then release clutch. The previous winters I sometimes had to do an intermediate step of going to neutral and releasing the clutch. But that may have had something to do with the floor rusted around the shift linkage. Since having a solid floor, I haven’t had that problem, it shifts out promptly.
4 HI, to shift in, I push in the clutch, shift into 4 HI, then release clutch.
To shift out, I first make sure I’m going straight for some distance to relieve any bind. Even on a loose or slippery surface, if you’re on a curve there is some bind in there, unless perhaps you’re on pure ice. Then, I push in the clutch, shift out, wait a second or two until I can feel it’s out, then release clutch. The previous winters I sometimes had to do an intermediate step of going to neutral and releasing the clutch. But that may have had something to do with the floor rusted around the shift linkage. Since having a solid floor, I haven’t had that problem, it shifts out promptly.
#7
That’s the thing I understand how it works with all the research I’ve done. Problem is even if I’m in 2wd my part time light stays on and I’m 100% still in 4wd. Diff and transfer case are full. There is a round 4 pin connector that is zip ties up at the top and I don’t know where it goes or what it’s for. I know the linkage works because I can shift into 4lo and crawl.
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#8
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Is your transfer case shifter adjusted properly?
Do you have all 4 same size tires?
Do you have all 4 same size tires?
#9
All 4 tires are the same and I haven’t messed with the shifter. I assumed it was working properly as I can put it in 4L and it will work. I did however put it in neutral and still could turn the front driveshaft by hand to get to the top bolts on the u joint (had to push the jeep lol)
#10
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
All 4 tires are the same and I haven’t messed with the shifter. I assumed it was working properly as I can put it in 4L and it will work. I did however put it in neutral and still could turn the front driveshaft by hand to get to the top bolts on the u joint (had to push the jeep lol)
You have not mentioned whether you have manual or auto ?
Mine will not ever shift out of 4 part unless on a slip surface
In most cases, it will move first time on the dirt or gravel on the side of road
In any case it gives difficulty, a procedure is to be on level loose surface, allow your truck to roll forward/back ever so slowly, flick auto into neutral, shift trans lever back & forth, repeat till it engages
As others have mentioned, your transfer case linkages can be worn or need adjustment, or the fork tips inside may be worn
I have had various 4wd for over 40 years and most of them had similar issues, hard to disengage locked 4
how many miles have you driven it on a hard surface in 4 part ?
If it has been driven for many miles like that, gears inside the 242 may be damaged
#11
CF Veteran
Typical NP242, I had two of them and both took awhile to engage and disengage 4x4. Never had that problem with a 231.
#12
I presume you have tried the method I have suggested, (because its so obvious) although you did not mention it ?
You have not mentioned whether you have manual or auto ?
Mine will not ever shift out of 4 part unless on a slip surface
In most cases, it will move first time on the dirt or gravel on the side of road
In any case it gives difficulty, a procedure is to be on level loose surface, allow your truck to roll forward/back ever so slowly, flick auto into neutral, shift trans lever back & forth, repeat till it engages
As others have mentioned, your transfer case linkages can be worn or need adjustment, or the fork tips inside may be worn
I have had various 4wd for over 40 years and most of them had similar issues, hard to disengage locked 4
how many miles have you driven it on a hard surface in 4 part ?
If it has been driven for many miles like that, gears inside the 242 may be damaged
You have not mentioned whether you have manual or auto ?
Mine will not ever shift out of 4 part unless on a slip surface
In most cases, it will move first time on the dirt or gravel on the side of road
In any case it gives difficulty, a procedure is to be on level loose surface, allow your truck to roll forward/back ever so slowly, flick auto into neutral, shift trans lever back & forth, repeat till it engages
As others have mentioned, your transfer case linkages can be worn or need adjustment, or the fork tips inside may be worn
I have had various 4wd for over 40 years and most of them had similar issues, hard to disengage locked 4
how many miles have you driven it on a hard surface in 4 part ?
If it has been driven for many miles like that, gears inside the 242 may be damaged
#13
Member
Put it up off the ground in neutral, get under it, disconnect the linkage at the transfer case, see if you can run through the modes by hand. Also sounds like the sensor might need reconnecting. I think it's right by the lever on the case. Previous owner took the front shaft off and probably knows it has a bad transfer case.
Last edited by Wrongholefool; 01-21-2024 at 10:30 AM.
#14
Senior Member
1) do what said above about disconnecting the linkage and shifting the tc manually . (Vehicle not runni if you're under it. You're going to need to rotate things to get it to shift)
2) stop focusing on the light. The light on my 242 was always telling me I was in full time"awd". I wasn't, the sensor was hanging up.
3)stop focusing on what the PO told you, no reason to think he knew what he was doing. He disconnected the drive shaft because he didn'like the fuel economy??????????
4) the 242 does take a bit of vehicle movement to shift.
5) don't base anything on what the fuel economy is
It wouldn't surprise me if it's a bad sensor or the linkage needs adjusting.
2) stop focusing on the light. The light on my 242 was always telling me I was in full time"awd". I wasn't, the sensor was hanging up.
3)stop focusing on what the PO told you, no reason to think he knew what he was doing. He disconnected the drive shaft because he didn'like the fuel economy??????????
4) the 242 does take a bit of vehicle movement to shift.
5) don't base anything on what the fuel economy is
It wouldn't surprise me if it's a bad sensor or the linkage needs adjusting.
Last edited by exasemech; 01-21-2024 at 11:26 AM.
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Wrongholefool (01-21-2024)
#15
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Year: 96
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I am going to say the PO could not get it out of 4 locked, drove it around, and eventually took the front drive shaft off
If he did that, there is a chance the gears and shafts have become stressed
Its damm hard to get it out of 4 locked if ever driven on a hard road, had that happen once or twice, as the light is not to be fully trusted
It makes a nasty grinding noise though !
I would keep trying my procedure on a level slip surface D/R/N (after verifying the linkage is working properly)
The 242s get toasted, and I think this is the main reason
FT 4 is a great thing, gets you through most things, dont have snow driving experience though
If he did that, there is a chance the gears and shafts have become stressed
Its damm hard to get it out of 4 locked if ever driven on a hard road, had that happen once or twice, as the light is not to be fully trusted
It makes a nasty grinding noise though !
I would keep trying my procedure on a level slip surface D/R/N (after verifying the linkage is working properly)
The 242s get toasted, and I think this is the main reason
FT 4 is a great thing, gets you through most things, dont have snow driving experience though
Last edited by awg; 01-21-2024 at 05:46 PM.