Ok so I have the splitloom routed and i hooked everything up but the knock sensor because its busted. It fired right up but still has the same symptoms of idling pretty decent but any kind of air from the butterfly when i open the throttle just makes it miss and the more i give it the bigger the bangs but the backfiring is fairly intermittent unlike its ability to "stumble". Im getting about .3-.4 ohms when i check the sensor grounds maybe it was .03-.04 ohms i cant remeber all of a sudden but before i removed the c101 i was getting all kinds of readings when i wiggled it but now there 0 variation. Still cant get the tps to get any higher than .55 where it should be around .81 with a ref voltage of 4.75. What do i do get it insured and push it in the river? lolol

 

any splices in the TPS harness?

 

no just that bare wire wrapped in blue foil. I mean the c101 is gonzo i got rid of it. Still cant get it to read right. So i got a hair up my butt and decided to take another look at the timing gears again I took everything off screwed in my compression tester hose and cranked until i got compression on #1. Somehow i either fanglebanged something or the cam was 180 out. Can it run 180 out and the distributor correctly timed for spark???? anyhow my buddy sad the chain had too much slop so i started messing with it tooth by tooth just putting a few bolts in the cover without the balancer just to see if it would crank. well the last time i tried it i forgot to put the cam bolt in so im buying a new timing set lol. it broke a few teeth but thankfully that was the only damage. This jeeps going to run and take me wheeling theres no if ands or buts i just need some help because im no pro. Ill let you guys know when the set gets here and what happens

 

Whoops! Don't feel alone. I forgot to come back and tighten the crank pulley bolt on a Nissan V6 I put head gaskets in. Owner said, "coming up the hill it started knocking and loosing power, so I need to downshift and floor it" Had he just stopped we could have just tightened the bolt. The guy was an equipment operator, (Cat Dan). He should have known better.

Pick up some starting fluid while you are at the parts house, OK?

 

So do you guys know if its able to idle with the cam 180 out with the distributor correct? Could i just have been burning the fuel that didnt get exhausted? The funny thing is when i timed it before I did the same thing i waited for the compression stroke via pressure coming out of the #1 plug hole set the gears so the dots were facing each other and when i took it off it was 180 out and i dont get it. I rebuilt a 88 comeanchee i used to have with a master rebuild kit and i timed it the same way and i didnt have any issue with it. This thing was too sweet od a deal to give up on. Its a 2 door larado its got the towpackage with the d44 rear the frot axle was swapped for a d30 high pinion so it doesnt have that 2 piece vacuum crap. and i got it for only 250 bucks so

 

No, Can't work. Say the rotor tip is at #1. A cam lobe just opened an intake valve to let fuel/air into a cylinder. If it's not #1, it aint gonna work.

Do you have some fear of starting fluid? If it does pop back and light, it will just be a "Poof". It won't stay burning. When I'm priming, pouring gas in a carb usually I will have a wet rag or towel handy just in case. I think it's lean, and 10 seconds with a can of quick start will show it.

 

Ok dudes I just got a new timing set in and I timed it with the 2 dots directly across from eachother the dist was still indexed correctly from when i flubbed it. Fired right up same symptoms. I just went to the parts store grabbed a can of starting fluid and gave it a shot. Just got a decent backfire and i gave it a 3 second spray and it started killing the engine. Im just chasing the problem around in circles.

 

Ok so I want to run down exactly what i did just to make sure i did it right. I timed the gears by putting the two dots facing eachother. I dont get my compression stroke until the cam turns 180 degrees and thats where i stabbed the distributor. stabbed it at 5 o'clock and the rotor is just leaving the contact node on the cap.

 

Never heard of starting fluid killing an engine. Exploding maybe but it should run on ether. You had the fuel pump relay pulled when you did the starting fluid right? Otherwise you had both gas and starting fluid in there.

From what I've read and the symptoms, I'm still thinking fuel issue:
-are you sure your fuel pump is good?
-Does the pressure go down when you rev it up?
-Fuel filter changed this decade?
-Spark plugs reasonably clean and gapped correctly?
-Spark plug wires on right cylinders (check firing order)

I've rarely seen people fix idling issues by messing with the timing chain-It' usually more simple than that.

 

The fuel pump is brand new the fuel pressure is good i got it up to 50 psi by pinching the retuern at normal the pressure is a few pounds over recommended the fuel filter is brand new spark plugs and cap are new old wires still. the firing order is correct and its not an idle problem the problem occurs when i touch the throttle at all. just starts sounding like a miss fire and wont rev at all just hesitates really bad and pops out the intake every now and then. i had the fuel rail off and turned the key so the injectors would get pressure and i tested the spray of each one by tapping a 12 volt and a ground to them. the injectors all sprayed a nice mist.

 

Wires are due for replacement every 30,000 miles............

 

Note from DJ
This information is just in case you mixed up the correct order of the wiring for the injectors
1= Light Blue, 2= Light Green, 3= Tan, 4= Yellow, 5= White, 6= Dark Brown & Black = Ground

 

This:

 

The wiring order for the injectors is correct. I made sure when i removed to c101 connector and thats the color order i got from the diagram in my book. the firing order is correct and in the correct rotation. i used noid lights to check all the injector pulses and i know i need new wires but this thing is due for a lot of stuff and im just trying to sort out issue before i replace all the rubber and plastic stuff that has gone to **** over the years. I have it mostly bare bones running only the vacuum lines needed for the map and fuel regulator. The egr valve is blocked off temporarily using old gasket and the vale itself and the vacuum line connections on the manifold are blocked off if its not running to the map or the regulator. I even blocked off the brake booster port on the manifold to see if i was getting a leak but it doesnt idle high it just goes to crap when i open the butterfly any amount.

 

In your shoes I might:

"tickle" it with starting fluid without flooding it.

Get a TPS you can adjust within specs.

Go ahead with new wires, just to rule out something odd. (resistance making the spark jump in the dizzy?)

Check that the crank pulley outer ring hasn't moved. (if it's not new)
Get the piston at tdc on 1 or 6. Use a drinking straw, or rig a fitting to connect a clear vinyl tube to the spark plug hole. Fill with oil and rotate engine for maximum height. Check timing mark. Or can the key-slot be used?

Check with a timing light to see the advance.

I would also try unplugging everything below, knock, O2 and temp sensor. Super easy and maybe enlightening. (and yes, it should run fine on defaults without them) Oh, you can unplug the lower wires off the dizzy as well.

Weak valve springs have come up. It idles fine and has 150# comp. An intake sticking open at higher rpm would cause an intake backfire. Just one might really mess up your day! Any crap ethanol/water that makes it through gets sprayed right on the intake valve stem (almost). I've seen them gum up and stick on other engines.