88 4.0 Runs Rough After Engine Rebuild, tried everything, nothing helps
#16
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Drained the remaining old fuel today and replaced the fuel filter, tried a little fresh fuel in the throttle body, but as soon as It cranked I noticed fuel filter hose pouring like a river. Seemed to crank a like easier, but could just be wishful thinking, I plan to get on it in the morning. Take a look at the attached pic - The fuel MAY not be THE problem, but this was definatly A problem!
The whtie at the bottom is the water that had separated from the old gas. Ugly.
I found this other thread where a guy had very simlar issues and tried a very similar route that I have been: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/94-...g-issue-91667/
He finally fixed it by setting the distri one tooth forward I think? THoughts?
The whtie at the bottom is the water that had separated from the old gas. Ugly.
I found this other thread where a guy had very simlar issues and tried a very similar route that I have been: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/94-...g-issue-91667/
He finally fixed it by setting the distri one tooth forward I think? THoughts?
#17
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Year: 1988
Engine: 4.0L
I absolutely agree with 5-speed on this, I think you may have found your problem. You can bet the whole fuel system is clogged up with all this bad fuel and water and it might not have anything to do with your ignition system at all. The whole system needs to be cleaned out before you go any further on anything else.
I then replaced the filter and put in 5 gallons of fresh gas with a quarter bottle of HEET water remover (yellow bottle). Once I can get it running I plan to fill up and put a good concentrates fuel injector/fuel system cleaner in the tank with 20 gallons.
Do you think the 5 gallons fresh + HEET will straighten it out enough to start running it, or is there something else before I go back to running/trouble shooting it? I used the HEET instead of the fuel system cleaner now because I need to get every drop of water out that I can.
#18
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thanks Bugout, I drain all of the old fuel by running the fuel pump with the hose pulled off of the back side of the fuel filter (I ran it until it started bubbling and spurting, then I waited afew minutes and did it again - didnt want to overheat it and burn it up with so little fuel left in it).
I then replaced the filter and put in 5 gallons of fresh gas with a quarter bottle of HEET water remover (yellow bottle). Once I can get it running I plan to fill up and put a good concentrates fuel injector/fuel system cleaner in the tank with 20 gallons.
Do you think the 5 gallons fresh + HEET will straighten it out enough to start running it, or is there something else before I go back to running/trouble shooting it? I used the HEET instead of the fuel system cleaner now because I need to get every drop of water out that I can.
I then replaced the filter and put in 5 gallons of fresh gas with a quarter bottle of HEET water remover (yellow bottle). Once I can get it running I plan to fill up and put a good concentrates fuel injector/fuel system cleaner in the tank with 20 gallons.
Do you think the 5 gallons fresh + HEET will straighten it out enough to start running it, or is there something else before I go back to running/trouble shooting it? I used the HEET instead of the fuel system cleaner now because I need to get every drop of water out that I can.
#19
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Year: 1988
Engine: 4.0L
Reindexed according to your link
I even cut-out a window on my old cap. It shows that once it was indexed directly on the #1 (center of the rotor), while the oil slot lined up at just past 12 o'clock. I turned the cap another to set the rotor just past the #1 post on the cap just to see if it made any difference - ran the same (I got some bad advice from the shop that rebuild the engine and cut the ears off of the base of the distributor)when I was having trouble getting te timing set) - it ran the same)
Then I lined up what I presume was the next tooth over (with oil slot at just past 11:00), the rotor ended up completely past #1 - there was no in-between.
I tried it little by little, over and over several times, still will not line-up to 4:00, turning to 5:00 and at the end of terminal #1 if the oil slot is at 11:00.
I put the most of the engine back together, but the shop installed the cam, cam bearings, timing gears and timing chain, so I can not say directly that they were installed correctly (though I would expect they would be (experienced shop just not very experienced with Jeeps). Nobody is perfect, soI'm trying to look at everything.
QUESTION: - Is there anything that could have been put in wrong mechanically that could cause this? If the timing chain were off by one tooth, would that cause these type rough running/timing issues?
#20
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If you do a compression test, that should tell you if the cam timing is off. I skimmed through the thread real quick so I might have missed it, but have you cleaned out your injectors or made sure that they are all firing? That gas you drained was nasty and there is a good chance it gummed up your injectors too.
#21
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Year: 1990
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Thanks for the link Cruiser, I re-indexed again, still idles decent, but will not rev, even if I slowly applied throttle. It always does the same thing - idles pretty good, then sputters and shakes when I apply throttle.
I even cut-out a window on my old cap. It shows that once it was indexed directly on the #1 (center of the rotor), while the oil slot lined up at just past 12 o'clock. I turned the cap another to set the rotor just past the #1 post on the cap just to see if it made any difference - ran the same (I got some bad advice from the shop that rebuild the engine and cut the ears off of the base of the distributor)when I was having trouble getting te timing set) - it ran the same)
Then I lined up what I presume was the next tooth over (with oil slot at just past 11:00), the rotor ended up completely past #1 - there was no in-between.
I tried it little by little, over and over several times, still will not line-up to 4:00, turning to 5:00 and at the end of terminal #1 if the oil slot is at 11:00.
I put the most of the engine back together, but the shop installed the cam, cam bearings, timing gears and timing chain, so I can not say directly that they were installed correctly (though I would expect they would be (experienced shop just not very experienced with Jeeps). Nobody is perfect, soI'm trying to look at everything.
QUESTION: - Is there anything that could have been put in wrong mechanically that could cause this? If the timing chain were off by one tooth, would that cause these type rough running/timing issues?
I even cut-out a window on my old cap. It shows that once it was indexed directly on the #1 (center of the rotor), while the oil slot lined up at just past 12 o'clock. I turned the cap another to set the rotor just past the #1 post on the cap just to see if it made any difference - ran the same (I got some bad advice from the shop that rebuild the engine and cut the ears off of the base of the distributor)when I was having trouble getting te timing set) - it ran the same)
Then I lined up what I presume was the next tooth over (with oil slot at just past 11:00), the rotor ended up completely past #1 - there was no in-between.
I tried it little by little, over and over several times, still will not line-up to 4:00, turning to 5:00 and at the end of terminal #1 if the oil slot is at 11:00.
I put the most of the engine back together, but the shop installed the cam, cam bearings, timing gears and timing chain, so I can not say directly that they were installed correctly (though I would expect they would be (experienced shop just not very experienced with Jeeps). Nobody is perfect, soI'm trying to look at everything.
QUESTION: - Is there anything that could have been put in wrong mechanically that could cause this? If the timing chain were off by one tooth, would that cause these type rough running/timing issues?
#22
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Year: 1988
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If it will not set at .020, what could be causing the misalignment?
I have tried time and time again, to set it down at just past #1, same thing every time - it either goes down and lands rotor between #1 and #5, or I move it back a thread and it lands between # 1 and #4.
It will not land at just past #1. Could this be timing gears/chain or cam shaft are out of synch/lined up wrong? I went a bought a compression testing kit to check it tomorrow once i figure out how to do it.
What are your thoughts on this Cruiser? .
It will not land at just past #1. Could this be timing gears/chain or cam shaft are out of synch/lined up wrong? I went a bought a compression testing kit to check it tomorrow once i figure out how to do it.
What are your thoughts on this Cruiser? .
#23
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Year: 1990
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I have tried time and time again, to set it down at just past #1, same thing every time - it either goes down and lands rotor between #1 and #5, or I move it back a thread and it lands between # 1 and #4.
It will not land at just past #1. Could this be timing gears/chain or cam shaft are out of synch/lined up wrong? I went a bought a compression testing kit to check it tomorrow once i figure out how to do it.
What are your thoughts on this Cruiser? .
It will not land at just past #1. Could this be timing gears/chain or cam shaft are out of synch/lined up wrong? I went a bought a compression testing kit to check it tomorrow once i figure out how to do it.
What are your thoughts on this Cruiser? .
#24
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Year: 1988
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The tabs have been cut
Prior to the engine rebuild the tabs were in place. I was told by the shop to cut them off, but could not resolve the problem doing so.
What could have changed during the rebuild that would cause it to no longer line-up? Also, I would like to get it back to where it should be, any ideas as to what mechanically could be causing the timing to be off?
Do I need to pull the front of the engine and confirm cam shaft/timing gears were installed correctly?
I tried to turn the distr. (with tabs off) to get it to line-up with around .020" on the last indexing I did, however it still di not let it run right.
Could it BE the cam shaft/ gears?
What could have changed during the rebuild that would cause it to no longer line-up? Also, I would like to get it back to where it should be, any ideas as to what mechanically could be causing the timing to be off?
Do I need to pull the front of the engine and confirm cam shaft/timing gears were installed correctly?
I tried to turn the distr. (with tabs off) to get it to line-up with around .020" on the last indexing I did, however it still di not let it run right.
Could it BE the cam shaft/ gears?
#27
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#28
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TDC actually showed at 6 degrees BTDC
If that is the case that the dampner is off, how do I fix that?
Not sure what you mean by outer ring?
#29
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If you do a compression test, that should tell you if the cam timing is off. I skimmed through the thread real quick so I might have missed it, but have you cleaned out your injectors or made sure that they are all firing? That gas you drained was nasty and there is a good chance it gummed up your injectors too.