cruiser54

Replace the dampener. It's 2 pieces. An inner and outer with a rubber bond in between. Look at yours.

freegdr

Bring back to tdc instal dist..seeif it runs right. I found my balancer at dealer and was cheapest and in stock.

PapaBearXJ88

I am not able to get anywhere with the timing issue, even with the tabs off and moving the distributor, so I', going back to look at the data from my sensors and look at fuel and exhaust.

In the videos that are attached to this post, you can see that Short Term Fuel Trim continues to max-out, the exhaust gets stuck at pretty solid LEAN, at the O2 stays high without much fluctuating. Considering this, I did some research to find out how this combination of things could affect the engine when it is trying to run.

I learned that high short term fuel trim can mean that the fuels is not being delivered to the cylinder, which would make sense that the exhaust would also be lean. (Here's the article that I first found the info: http://www.easterncatalytic.com/educ...agnostic-tool/ )

Here's an excerpt from the artcle on how to interpret the data:
"Running too lean – High positive fuel corrections can be traced to MAF and O2 sensor faults, vacuum leaks from intake gaskets/hoses, unmetered air (intake snorkel leak), clogged or dirty fuel injectors, fuel delivery issues, and exhaust restrictions such as a clogged catalytic converter."

My plans at this point are:
1) Retest the fuel pressure (at idle and at acceperation
2) Remove and clean all fuel injectors and fuel rail, then run Seafoam through the line from the pressure line, down through where it comes out at the filter (filter removed, of course)
3) Figure out how to check cam timing with compression test and do that
4) remove exhaust at the head pipe, before the Cat. so as to eliminate a clogged cat..

Thoughts?

VIDEO #1 - Just before it shut down on its own: - Note the maxed-out fuel trim (STFT), the high and steady O2 and the LEAN exhaust reading and Ignition advance at 0-3 degrees advanced.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gGc...ew?usp=sharing

VIDEO #2 - 6 minutes before video # 1

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Pa2...ew?usp=sharing

PapaBearXJ88

I checked my fuel pressure today, could only check it at ignition on and while trying to crank (will not start now). Fuel pressure was 32 with ignition on, went to maybe 35-36 while it was trying to crank.

Am I correct that pressure should be 39, then the regulator vacuum at idle pulls it back to 31? Would that be enough of a loss to keep it from running right?

I also ran the fuel pump again to pull some fuel out, it still looks horrible. I ran it empty before (or so I thought), but still looks like this.

I'm considering running it all out, using a hand pump to suck out the remnants, then pulling and replacing the pump (Don't know if it may be low on pressure or damaged from all of this bad gas), cleaning out the supply line by shooting carb cleaner down the line and blowing it out with air.

Thoughts?


FUEL TEST GAUGE TRYING TO CRANK (VIDEO) -
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HJT...ew?usp=sharing

BAD GAS AGAIN -
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iji...ew?usp=sharing

cruiser54

I'd pull the pump next.

Caish

Repeat the TDC, feel with screwdriver on Compression stroke, mark harmonic balancer with paint mark at 0.
Remember these are rubber mounted and can turn over time on the center hub.
Do you have a regular timing light?
Hook it up crank it over and see what the timing is doing.
Also check fuel pressure, not enough fuel flow and will not accelerate.
Are you sure you aligned the timing marks on the gears when installing the timing set?
Renix will run even with distributor unplugged, it only tells the ecm where the #1 and #6 pistons are tdc, without signal, the renix will start firing injectors randomly, it does all the timing off the CPS and flywheel.
Two more suggestions.
Unplug the knock sensor will run fine without it, mines been unhooked for 7 years lol.
Also check the vacuum signal to the map sensor.

PapaBearXJ88

I pulled the injectors and the fuel lines, next I'm planning to empty the tank (using the pump to empty it out most of the way) and pull the pump. Then I would like to use a hand pump to pump out everything I can get to and leave the pump off for a while to let every drop evaporate to gt it bone dry if I can. Is it a good idea to do that?

I plan to at least replace the screen (pump was running at 34-36 without cranking, figured the reduced pressure could maybe be from gunk around the screen?)

I think one of the injectors may have been leaking where the plastic meets the metal body on top of the injector). I am considering swapping the injectors for some 4-hole Bosch injectors that operate on 19 llbs, 16 Ohms (which is stock pressure/resistance for renix injectors if I am not mistaken?)
No telling what all is inside of mine after that horrible fuel has been passing through them for so long).

Before putting everything back together I'd like to clean out the supply line. I've been trying to figure out how, I'm thinking about using my vacuum pump and a jar (like you would use it for brake bleeding) to pull Seafoam or carb cleaner through the line, then blow it our with air. (pulling from the front side of where the fuel filter plugs in, with the seafoam entering at the supply line connection to the fuel rail).

If the pump is OK, clean it up and reinstall with new screen. If it is too nasty, replace.

At the end of all of this I would have a clean fuel rail (afer cleaning scoped it to ensure inside is squeaky clean), cleaned out supply line, new filter, new injectors, new screen and dry tank to refill with fresh gas.

***By the way - when i pulled the fuel rail I scoped the ports down to the intake valve on each, and I could see that #5 intake valve is open. When I pulled the ditstr cap it was pointing at #4.
With a firing order of 1-5-3-6-2-4-(1-5 . ..ect), that would mean that right now 4 is on POWER, 1 ss on COMPRESSION and 5 is on INTAKE.
So valve timing is correct based on this, right?

PapaBearXJ88

Thanks Caish, I marked the harmonic balancer two times ago when I indexed the distr (done it 4 times). It looked like it coud have slipped a little (was showing 5 degrees BTDC when I found TDC using the method you described with screwdriver).
I havent tried with a timing light yet (dont have one), but once I get it running again I will find one.
I'm exploring the fuel pressure thing now - 34-36 with it turned on not cranked. I am emptying the fuel tank and removing the pump to inspect it, change the screen and get the tank to get it bone dry and clean out all of the lines before putting in new injectors.
As for the knock sensor, it was running so badly right before it quit that I got to see that it is working LOL. That's one way of checking sensors - get the jeep to run like crap!
Good vac at MAP too.

PapaBearXJ88

I'm doing it a we speak - new injectors, fuel rail pulled apart and cleaned out (then scoped to ensure no remaining moisture or gunk - it's squeaky clean), Seafoam and/or carb cleaner to be suctioned through supply line (with hand-held vac pump), new fuel filter, empty tank and drying, pulling pump to clean or replace, new pump filter screen.

If that doesnt clean it out I dont know what will.

Is there any way that water could be getting in through vent holes in top? It's been sitting, I wouldn think so, but the back window leaks water into the floor in cargo area.

Justin.H

Bugout4x4

There is the fill tube hose, the vent hose and the fuel pump to tank seal that could also allow water to get in while driving in the rain.

Did a lot of junk come out of that fuel rail? I know when I did mine all I could think was that it was a wonder it was still running. It was full of crap right up to the level where the injectors draw fuel from the rail, I would say a third full at least. lol

PapaBearXJ88

Fuel rail had the same thing in it that you see in these pictures. This explains so much - tank is rusted, sump is full of goo (and rust) pump screen covered, ect., ect.
I'm cleaning and/or replacing the entire fuel system.:
* New pump (even though the pressure was decent (34-36), I don't want to be pulling it apart next month because of more gunk that was clogging up the old pump.
* New tank
* New injectors (upgrading to 4-hole injectors) and o-rings
* New fuel filter
* Cleaned out fuel rail, new o-ring
* Cleaning all fuel lines - pumped lacquer thinner through the line with syringe, then plugged the end that comes out at the filter, and ran a drip IV into the line and tapped the lines (breaks loose the air bubbles and slowly replaces it with lacquer thinner), then let it sit overnight before blowing it out with air,
If I can safely rig something up to work with the old pump, I'd like to flush the lines again. maybe kerosene?
I'm kinda paranoid at this point about leaving anything out and jacking up some more injectors.

cruiser54

You're doing great. Keep up the good work.

Bugout4x4

X2 Yep, don't mess around and do it right like you are. This is just about as extreme as it can get here I think. Not sure I have many worse gunked up than this one is.

Bugout4x4

I think you are are going to be fine once you get it all together again with fresh fuel and everything clean. What you might want to do is leave the line unhooked at the rail, put a hose over it to capture it in a can, then cycle the pump several times just to be sure. Then hook it up and cycle it a few more times before starting it and you should be good to go!