ibost

ya im sure about the test
I get no voltage at all

my meter has long slim probs on end so they go right down in beside the pins making good contact

I am a retired HVAC tech so i am very familiar with the meters
and using them

DFlintstone

Cool. Hard to tell from here, like tieing your shoes with chopsticks sometimes. Guess that "hall effect transducer", turns gaps on the flywheel into a square wave AC of sorts. (at least I never saw anything like a sign wave on a scope). It's different than the 91 on. Your ECU defiantly needs that. I don't have a C-101, but if I did I'd probably hack it out and solder the wires, and I'm LAZY. If you haven't, you might click on the link in my sig.

ibost

installed new cps and tps still didnt help

turned out to be fuel pump in tank

running good now but i have a rear main seal leaking and need to change it
have been told that you can pull the oil pan and go through there to change it out
because it is a 2 piece seal
wondering if anyone had done it this way and had any suggestens warnings or tips for
me before i do it
thanks

letinsh

Yep, that RMS is a 2 piece and you can get at it by dropping your oil pan. Here's how mine went.

Don't let that scare you. The trick to getting the oil pan out is to rotate it such that it comes out around the passenger side of the tranny. Once you get under there, you'll understand. That sucker doesn't come out any other way (I tried them all).

A couple tips:
-Drain your oil the night before, it'll reduce the amount of oil landing in your face
-keep your bolts in order and mark on the oil pan where the odd sized/studs came from (use white out or the like)
-When putting the oil pan back in, zip tie the new gasket to the pan to hold it in place as you get everything back in place.
-Buy the 1 piece Felpro gasket....don't mess around with the 4 piece seal...you'll just end up doing it again.
-When you're punching out the old seal from the block, be very careful not to scratch the seal surface (use a brass punch, or be very, very careful with a steel one).
-Use RTV where the 2 halves of the seal mate when you put the bearing cap back on and on the felpro seal, as indicated here

-If you're not running any lift, be prepared to disconnect your lower shock bolts, sway bar links, tie rod/steering links and track bar to get the suspension to droop enough to get the pan out.

It's educational

cruiser54

Yep. Do this first:



　

I'd be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.

Everybody, who doesn't own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking.

Many mechanics, friends, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?

A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.

Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons.

First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$hit flows downhill".

Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first.

Revised 9-15-2012

ibost

Well got that main rear seal done and all good now no oil leak

No kidding on removing that oil pan it is by far the hardest part to it
matter of fact i couldnt get it out was about 1/4 inch shy so i did something diff
i just pushed the pan up to front and it give me plenty of room to change the seal, which took all of about 30 min to do

then got it turned sideways a bit enough to clean out and get gasket ready
then wire tied the new rubber gasket to the pan

gotta watch that back part of the gasket that its in place right i didnt and had leak had to drop pan again and fix it, but that went pretty easy as well

now got new project

got to change out the power steering pump
anyone got any advice or step by step link on it?

sure appreciate all the help here on this site makes it more fun to play with others

cruiser54

Cool. Always check the technical write-up section. some good stuff there.

letinsh

Yeah, that oil pan sucks, eh?

Gotcha covered on that power steering pump....your repairs seem to be tracking with mine...

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/19...3/#post2231999