But it initially ran fine for a few minutes, right?

 

I'd check the MAP and it's tube. It senses the drop in manifold vacuum when you open the throttle and tells the ECU to dump more fuel when the vacuum drops.

There is a test here. I assume he is "back-probing", (checking it with a pin or paperclip or something stuck in there to connect the meter while it's plugged in. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...iagnostics.htm

There is another test, watching the "sweep" on B, with an analogue gauge. (or I suppose a spendy digital)

Also the tube is critical, (and brittle). Needs to be flawless.

 

Btw, when mine was doing something similar it turned to out to be one of the wires to the lower sensors, grounding. My harness from the injector "harness" to down there was mis-routed and chafed/grounded on the edge of the heat shield. It would go like heck if I floored it. (the ECU will ignore a bunch of sensors past 80% throttle)

 

This is a video of what it is doing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LB1N...ature=youtu.be

 

Cruiser - Yes, it initially ran well. This started after the new engine install.
DFlinstone - I will try the test this morning on the MAP. I did look for a chafed wire, as I saw your post on your issue before. I could not find any although I may not be looking at the right spot. If I floor the throttle (100% throttle), it bogs even more.

 

Just tested the MAP. A puts in 5.09v and B puts out 4.90v. Don't have a vacuum guage, but will try to get one today to test the vacuum voltage as per the video on the site.

 

Make sure the tubing from the MAP to Throttle body is in good shape. I would clean the throttle body too and adjust TPS to make sure everything is good.

 

Okay,
Pulled the throttle body and cleaned it. Re-installed, adjusted TPS (4.89 to .83).
Still doing the same.

The tube is in good shape, fits snuggly into the bottom entry on the throttle body.

 

Did you check that voltage at MAP terminal B drops from 4-5, (ign on), to 1.5 -2.1 volts, at, "hot engine idle", it says? (back probing, I assume). That test just uses engine vacuum. No vacuum pump or gauge is needed.

I'd think the fuel lines would have been a problem with the other engine...Idk of course.

What Cruiser was getting at about the secondary spark, (I think), is that the voltage needed to jump the gap goes up under higher compression. If it's just barely making it, it may take another path (if it has one), when the compression goes up. Now and then you can catch spark going to ground somewhere else by watching it in the dark. Myself, I might try the old cap/rotor/wires , if I still had them.

You do know the books and diagrams are wrong, #1 is at 5:00 as viewed from the side, 153624 clockwise.

One way to access the lower sensors/wires is to support the frame so the axle hangs, and go at it from the front. Last year I tried to duplicate the "condition", by grounding sensor wires, to see which one it was. It wouldn't do it for me cold and I gave up. For sure though, when I re-routed and taped the bare wire, that fixed it.

Since you just now bolted it up, it would be easy enough to loosen the pipe to header bolts so exhaust can leak and try it, on the long-shot that when your other engine blew it somehow clogged up the exhaust.

 

DFlinstone:
The MAP tests good, voltage and vacuum.

I agree with the fuel lines, but changed them out to new (I have the tubing already)

I am starting to think that Cruiser is on target (After reading all other posts and the pink link, why wouldn't he!!!). When I pull the wire off of 2 on the Dizzy cap and give throttle, the sparks are erratic. 3,4 and 5 are also erratic. 1 and 6 are spot on. What causes this to happen?

Yes, I know the diagram is wrong. I have been at this for two months already reading others posts to see if I can solve the problem. Ended up posting myself to see if I can get to the bottom of this with you all's help.

I looked last night in the dark to see if I saw a spark anywhere, and couldn't see none.

I really appreciate the help from all, if you can think of anything, please let me know. Really want to drive this thing!!!!!

 

There in post #24 was about all I can think of. It only takes a second to check a CPS......One of those things that can be ruled out in the time it takes to tie your shoes!

 

Hello everyone,
Finally got it!!!! I figured I would post what fixed it so that others may use the solution.

After checking pretty much everything again with a friend who knows more (Matt), and going thru Cruiser's pink list, the problem was my CPS. Matt figured out that at idle, the cps was reading fine sending the correct info to the ECU. When applying throttle, the flexplate flexed enough to throw the reading off (the cps was not reading the squares).
I added two washers that offset the cps about 1/16", said a prayer, and started the XJ. Idle was perfect and when I applied throttle, even better!!!!!

Thanks everyone for your input. I appreciate the time you took to help me out.

 

Woohoo!!

I guess it's a good idea to slot the upper hole then? Factory did that on the CPSs provided in the "bypass kit".

 

Yeah, I slotted the upper hole, then shifted the cps to the top of the housing and added the spacers. Its running like a charm for the last 5 days. Just in time also, as the wife took her extra key to the grand cherokee away from me!!!!!! LOL