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88xj UN DRIVEABLE.. Horrible idle. FIRE!!

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Old 04-04-2013, 06:58 PM
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Ok so I have come a long ways. Still a rough idle but I have some throttle response

Noticed a odd spark issue. Check this video out. I don't know why it's doing this

I indicated in the dizzy correctly. My marks lined up

My spark isn't constant on some of the terminals. NEW Rotor and cap Noticed it doing this on old cap and rotor JUST bout new ones and same issue. It's not the wires , i swapped the good working wire to that terminal. Same thing

Here video. It's the one that has the dipstick showing http://s1288.photobucket.com/user/De...tml?sort=3&o=0

Last edited by Dennis88; 04-04-2013 at 07:11 PM.
Old 04-04-2013, 07:22 PM
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Try this:

Renix Jeep ICU/Coil contact refreshing
 
 



The contacts between the coil and the ICU on your Renix Jeep can become corroded and loose causing a complete or intermittent no-start condition. I recommend the following procedure as a maintenance precaution to insure this is eliminated as a possible cause now and in the future.

The coil is attached to the ICU by two T20 Torx bolts. Remove these two bolts and lift the coil up off the ICU. You will see 2 pins and 2 sets of contacts. Clean both the pins and springy contact pieces with a good electronics cleaner and some fine sandpaper.

Squeeze the springy contacts closer together with some needlenose pliers. Bolt the coil back on to the ICU.

While you’re right there unplug the connectors from the ICU and inspect the pins in the harness connector. Make sure the pins are not retracted into the connector. Spray out the connector and the receptacle of the ICU with the same good electronics cleaner you used earlier.

I feel this procedure should be performed at least once in the lifetime of a Renix Jeep.

 

Revised 04-04-2013


Old 04-04-2013, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
as soon as you gas it the puter is advancing the spark. Maybe enough to miss the terminal in the cap.
Originally Posted by Dennis88
No noticeable change in the way the motor idles.
I didn't mean at idle. The puter' advances the spark with RPM, so, an outside chance the spark "pulls away" from the terminal when you come up off idle.
Anyway just properly indexing it is best, glad you are making progress!

jdjonesdr, I went ahead and put a link to your excellent photos in the Renix info in my signature.

Last edited by DFlintstone; 04-04-2013 at 07:36 PM.
Old 04-04-2013, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Try this:

Renix Jeep ICU/Coil contact refreshing
 
 



The contacts between the coil and the ICU on your Renix Jeep can become corroded and loose causing a complete or intermittent no-start condition. I recommend the following procedure as a maintenance precaution to insure this is eliminated as a possible cause now and in the future.

The coil is attached to the ICU by two T20 Torx bolts. Remove these two bolts and lift the coil up off the ICU. You will see 2 pins and 2 sets of contacts. Clean both the pins and springy contact pieces with a good electronics cleaner and some fine sandpaper.

Squeeze the springy contacts closer together with some needlenose pliers. Bolt the coil back on to the ICU.

While you’re right there unplug the connectors from the ICU and inspect the pins in the harness connector. Make sure the pins are not retracted into the connector. Spray out the connector and the receptacle of the ICU with the same good electronics cleaner you used earlier.

I feel this procedure should be performed at least once in the lifetime of a Renix Jeep.

 

Revised 04-04-2013


Would this cause an missing spark on just a few terminals?

Some of them were hitting good and constant. A few we're like missing and intermident
Old 04-04-2013, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Radi
What year motor did you swap in?
ME:

Excellent point. Post 90 uses a bunch of different stuff. May well be the torque plate being one. (see HO/Renix swap)

Just was thinking. Just because you have a Renix manifold, doesn't mean it doesn't have an HO torque plate...Guess if your new motor came with the 3 bolt TB it's unlikely it was an HO. On the other hand maybe that's why someone sold it. Having the knock sensor I guess is somewhat of a clue, but you COULD actually check the block casting #... It's on the right side of the block, forward of the dizy, top edge. Years are here below>
http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/tech_specs.html


There seemed to be a consistent pattern to your miss? (three clicks)
Old 04-04-2013, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Dennis88
Would this cause an missing spark on just a few terminals?

Some of them were hitting good and constant. A few we're like missing and intermident
We're at the point that academics are out the window. Just try it. Takes 5 minutes.
Old 04-04-2013, 10:58 PM
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Adding in my 2 cents my comanche had similar idle problems and would fall flat on its face when given some throttle, what it ended up to be was injectors 3-6 being not connected to the correct plug. 3 being number 5 and 4 on 6. Runs perfect after swapping connectors till it smoothed out. Mine has a rats nest of a engine harness.
Old 04-05-2013, 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
May well be the torque plate being one.
That's a good idea to check out, it might be the wrong flexplate screwing with the CPS and the timing.
Old 04-05-2013, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
We're at the point that academics are out the window. Just try it. Takes 5 minutes.
I am , going to fool with it all again today after work. Any more suggestions for my too try is appreciated. I was thinking, could a dirty greasy flywheel cause that?

And yes it's like a 1.2.3....1.2.3... But then that other one was constant and steady
Old 04-05-2013, 07:19 AM
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Answer post #53. Which flywheel/flexplate did you use?
Old 04-05-2013, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Answer post #53. Which flywheel/flexplate did you use?
The ones on new motor, I did not swap my flywheel or flex plate. Motors looked identical. Are there visual differences between the correct and incorrect flywheel/flex. Also assuming i may need to remove motor or tranny to inspect or replace?

Any wire color diagram for the injectors? Very good information above ^^ appreciate all the responses.


Will also check block numbers. Thanks

Last edited by Dennis88; 04-05-2013 at 07:31 AM.
Old 04-05-2013, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Dennis88
The ones on new motor, I did not swap my flywheel or flex plate. Motors looked identical. Are there visual differences between the correct and incorrect one? Also assuming i may need to remove motor or tranny to inspect or replace?

Any wire color diagram for the injectors? Very good information above ^^ appreciate all the responses.
And the donor motor came out of what?
Old 04-05-2013, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
And the donor motor came out of what?
Came with my jeep, Im unsure of this. Got it from a friend of a friends and was told my a good buddy of mine that it ran, A friend of 20 years so i just assumed he seen it run. Motor looked great and has good compression but im not sure what it came out of, If i had to guess, it was another 88 or older.

I will get the block numbers and try too find out what year it was manufactured.
Old 04-05-2013, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Dennis88
Came with my jeep, Im unsure of this. Got it from a friend of a friends and was told my a good buddy of mine that it ran, A friend of 20 years so i just assumed he seen it run. Motor looked great and has good compression but im not sure what it came out of, If i had to guess, it was another 88 or older.

I will get the block numbers and try too find out what year it was manufactured.

Do that. The flexplates look similar to the untrined eye and could be overlooked in a swap. Get this number for us:
Attached Thumbnails 88xj UN DRIVEABLE.. Horrible idle. FIRE!!-engine-code-location.jpg  
Old 04-05-2013, 04:54 PM
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Only numbers on that is 810MX25

Cleaned coil. Same issue.


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