Parsnip

Still a no spark scenario? Run through cruisers pink links like you have planned, then go to the local pick and pull yard and grab about 5 Cps 's for renix era cherokees. Reason why I say that is most of the time you can find a few dealership Cps in the jy and they are only a few dollars each, so you can nab a few for less than parts store price for one. Next, what was the history prior to this issue? Any weird shut downs, hard starts?
For kicks and giggles, are you testing spark from the distributor cap or the coil? I would test off both just for khits and siggles, make sure there's no issue there.

Last but not least, I'm assuming you tried starting it with all of the aforementioned "failed" Cps installed? I know they may not pass the test, but there's always the chance the meter is acting up.

Post script- check all connections, make sure you didn't do something funny like disconnect the dizzy, or the icm.

DFlintstone

Video: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B4rH...p=docslist_api

In your vid it REALLY sounds like at least one cyl is firing way advanced.

>>When you have the CPS unplugged to test ACV, does it still stall while cranking, (like in the vid), or spin more evenly? << If it's not cranking smooth and even, maybe see if it does with the plugs out. There is a small chance coolant is getting in a cylinder causing that stall. Also, the meter might have a tough time registering a reading with that syncopated cranking. The spendy meters have a faster 'sample rate" then the cheaper. Meters like most of mine might not be able to "lock on" to a signal that is changing too often.

Not to disagree with Cruiser, (who I've learned loads from about "this new stuff"), but that CPS signal is really independent of the rest of the mess. (in our Renix Jeeps) As long as that two wire Hall Effect transducer has the gaps going past, it, it should create a signal if it's close enough.

Dolphin

After finishing the ground and coil refreshing we have spark! But still no change. I'm thinking it is some kind of timing issue based on the video. I've taken a new one which is below. When we were trying to start it there were a few times it sounded like it was going to take, but then bogged out. Also below are 2 photos. One showing the map sensor and the vacuum line path. The other is a vacuum line I found close to the firewall on the passenger side. Any idea what it is or where it goes?

Video
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B4rH...p=docslist_api
MAP sensor
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B4rH...p=docslist_api
Vacuum line
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B4rH...p=docslist_api

cruiser54

I'll add a diagram of the MAP vacuum hose.

The one on the passenger side is a vent for another system and will not affect running at all.

freegdr

To me having wet spark plugs is flooding from trying to start so much .And its turning over way to slow . That cable in the pictures the main ground cable if im seeing it correctly .

Dolphin

Ok great. That's how this one looked too. Thanks for the diagram, its perfect.

Dolphin

It was the main ground cable. I pulled and replaced both terminal cables. They both looked like that.

freegdr

You replaced both cables and its still cranking slow.

Dolphin

Yes, vid is with jumper cables attached. Battery is good, but I'm sure it's low after being down for so long.

DFlintstone

Please double check Cruisers post #31. Renix won't fire until it does a couple revs. What is almost surely happening is it's turning fine until it gets spark, then it starts fighting it's self because the spark is goofy.

Following the plug wire diagrams might cause that. They are about all wrong. #1 is at 5:00 viewed from the side, 153624 clockwise.

The dizy cap screws should be lined up so a line through them would be center on the valve cover, a tad less than 4" from the top end of the valve cover. (that is where they are, unless someone cut the alignment pin)(or something) In your shoes I might find compression on #1 with my finger, line up the timing marks, and see that the rotor is pointing to 5:00...

redmuck

its a 93 engine, don't it need sensors from 1991 and up?

DFlintstone

YES! But that swap is OK if you keep everything from the 87-90 engine. He says they had it running before, so we are assuming the flex plate, dizy and sensors were kept from the pre 91 engine, and the 93 was just used as a "long block".

Dolphin

Unfortunately, I don't know much about the history of the jeep and its prior maintenance.

DFlintstone

Please check cruisers post #31, The book and online diagrams are wrong!

ehall

sensors are matched to the computer not the iron