89 cherokee radiator plug
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: colorado springs
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 6-Cylinder
89 cherokee radiator plug
so when i was changing the water pump and thermostat/flushing the system a few weeks ago i ended up over loosening the petcock and took it completely out when draining the fluid when from what im told a 1/4 inch turn would have been sufficient (but im impatient and didnt have alll day to wait for it to drain). after putting it back in it now leaks slowly but consistently causing me to add fluid every week or so
anywho....anyone know if this will be a direct fit?
says it fits but looks nothing like the one currently in the jeep
this one
looks exactly like whats in my jeep but says it isnt compatible with my radiator.
the one thats in there now is a crap design and i wish i could just plug it up permanently with a bolt or something but if anyone has replaced these your advice (or parts numbers) would be greatly appreciated.
thanks
anywho....anyone know if this will be a direct fit?
says it fits but looks nothing like the one currently in the jeep
this one
looks exactly like whats in my jeep but says it isnt compatible with my radiator.
the one thats in there now is a crap design and i wish i could just plug it up permanently with a bolt or something but if anyone has replaced these your advice (or parts numbers) would be greatly appreciated.
thanks
#5
Senior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 925
Likes: 5
From: Fort Erie, CANADA
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Rock auto has then for $2.47. 1/8" Male NPT. I'm sure you could get a plumbing part to work but there's probably a parts store that has something like that.
#7
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 19
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
That's why it's recommended to drain it by pulling the lower hose. (after the air cleaner) Your drain likely has krud in it. If A plug will work, I'm sure Ace has it. IIRC mine is not easy to reach, but I'm wondering if you first drain it if you could then blast it with a garden hose and dislodge the krud. Maybe even poke something in there, like trimmer line or something.
Trending Topics
#8
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: colorado springs
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 6-Cylinder
That's why it's recommended to drain it by pulling the lower hose. (after the air cleaner) Your drain likely has krud in it. If A plug will work, I'm sure Ace has it. IIRC mine is not easy to reach, but I'm wondering if you first drain it if you could then blast it with a garden hose and dislodge the krud. Maybe even poke something in there, like trimmer line or something.
after driving it for a few days it seems its only really bad after im driving it for a while (30 mins or more in the city), especially past couple of days because ive been driving it hard to get the most out of my engine/oil cleaner. already feel such a noticeable difference so if i can fix the leak ill have a completely leak free 89. which is exciting to both me and my landlord
ill take a trip back to ace and see what i can whip up, already used some galvanized steel and brass tubing/fittings to replace the pipe that comes off the water pipe. plumbing fabs just work so damn well!
#10
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: colorado springs
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 6-Cylinder
Don't remember exactly what its called all I know is that parts stores dont carry them for my year water pump because its a threaded pipe and all the ones that parts stores carry are pressure fit pipes with orings. It the 6-8 inch pipe that comes off the upper left hand side of the water pump (if you're facing the engine)
#11
Seasoned Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 448
Likes: 0
From: Sucka Free East Bay Cali
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
It's not a good idea to mix brass fittings and galvanized pipe. Over time Electrolysis will corrode the crap out of it clogging the pipe and seizing them. They make dielectric fittings to combat this but it's better to stick with brass on brass.
#12
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 19
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
OK, Gotccya'. Whatever works. Here's what I think. Yes, it is actually called a nipple. You don't want to clamp on the threads. Two options. Clamp your nipple in a vise, and cut it off where the threads end, giving a smooth clamping surface.
Or, boil a pot of water and pour it, slowly, over the hose to make it soft enough to slide up past the threads, so your clamp is on solid metal.
Or, boil a pot of water and pour it, slowly, over the hose to make it soft enough to slide up past the threads, so your clamp is on solid metal.
Last edited by DFlintstone; 05-06-2014 at 03:22 AM.
#13
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 19
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Crawdad is correct. I have a Galvanized pipe to the brass valve that feeds the hot water in to the tub I've been using about three times a week since 96. I can clearly see that the metal is letting a tad of water through.
#14
Seasoned Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 448
Likes: 0
From: Sucka Free East Bay Cali
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
OK, Gotccya'. Whatever works. Here's what I think. Yes, it is actually called a nipple. You don't want to clamp on the threads. Two options. Clamp your nipple in a vise, and cut it off where the threads end, giving a smooth clamping surface.
Or, boil a pot of water and pour it, slowly, over the hose to make it soft enough to slide up past the threads, so your clamp is on solid metal.
Or, boil a pot of water and pour it, slowly, over the hose to make it soft enough to slide up past the threads, so your clamp is on solid metal.
#15
Senior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 925
Likes: 5
From: Fort Erie, CANADA
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have no idea what this thread is about. Does it leak at the drain fitting or is it leaking in other places. This is an easy fix unless I'm reading it wrong-get a 1/8" male NPT plug and put it in with some Teflon tape on the threads and screw it on. That's a pressurized system you have so you don't want to use clamps on pipes-you need a valve or plug to seal the outlet properly. Maybe I'm not getting what the problem is-the male plugs are in the plumbing section of any hardware store. Brass is fine-IIRC the rads have copper and aluminum cores. Brass is high in copper.