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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
That "thing with the gears" is for the maintenance reminder light that is a timer that nags you to change the O2 sensor. It can be unplugged and round-filed if you feel inclined. By "no start" do you mean it won't crank (likely NSS), or it's cranking and won't fire off?
Ok if I can disconnect that maintenance that's good. So if I start the engine. You can hear the starter trying to start engine. But not firing. The reason why I was thinking maybe the trans module was because I was thinking about how when u are in drive. The engine will crank, but for safety reasons it will not start. In drive. There is also two wires that are connected to a "t" bracket bolted to engine bay on driver side. I remember when I was running. I disconnected one wire. And the engine would not fire..I think it had to do with the fuel pump...
Normally, in (D) the starter is prevented from running by the NSS switch on the trans. I think we need to back up and check the basics. Do you have spark?
It's an 89 MJ. It didn't start life with a trans computer. But I did bolt one on when I converted to an automatic. Haven't touched the engine computer.
I don't intend to add confusion to the thread. Somehow, I decided Luke Gray had an MJ, not sure how I came to that conclusion. Regardless, my question in post #18 was intended for Luke Gray and his XJ of unknown year.
Ok, so I have a thought...in the engine bay below the MAP sensor there are two connectors. One is the crank position sensor that connects there and wire goes down to the bell housing. The other connector wires run to the wiring harness and I'm not sure where is goes. I think it goes to the distributor. But lately I've had a no fireing issue and I would disconnect it and wait for a few min. Then reconnect and the engine will fire up....I have a gut feeling that is the issue. What do u think? And is that second connection go to the distributor?
I don't intend to add confusion to the thread. Somehow, I decided Luke Gray had an MJ, not sure how I came to that conclusion. Regardless, my question in post #18 was intended for Luke Gray and his XJ of unknown year.
Sorry, I had other issues...Mom needed help....but getting back to it. I have an 89 XJ. The transmitting module, cruise control module, and that weird device was bolted securely on the the lower dash cover. By the way I am going to fill out that (questionnaire ?)u told me about on the forum Cruiser .
Ok, so I have a thought...in the engine bay below the MAP sensor there are two connectors. One is the crank position sensor that connects there and wire goes down to the bell housing. The other connector wires run to the wiring harness and I'm not sure where is goes. I think it goes to the distributor. But lately I've had a no fireing issue and I would disconnect it and wait for a few min. Then reconnect and the engine will fire up....I have a gut feeling that is the issue. What do u think? And is that second connection go to the distributor?
There is no connector for the distributor below the MAP sensor.
actually, you can disconnect that connector at the distributor and the Jeep will still run. The device inside the distributor has absolutely nothing to do with ignition at all.
Can you post photos of these 2 connectors you're talking about?
The one that you disconnect and re-connect and then it starts. That's a good clue right there. Inspect the pins very closely and make sure they have tight contact with the other side of the plug.
There is no connector for the distributor below the MAP sensor.
actually, you can disconnect that connector at the distributor and the Jeep will still run. The device inside the distributor has absolutely nothing to do with ignition at all.
Can you post photos of these 2 connectors you're talking about?
The one that you disconnect and re-connect and then it starts. That's a good clue right there. Inspect the pins very closely and make sure they have tight contact with the other side of the plug.
I looked at it again to take a picture. And that connector connects to the sensor that right on top of the intake manifold...I think I'm going to change out the crank position sensor anyways. I purchased it a while ago. And never replaced it..then go from there...
I thought that was the cause of all my problems. But still not firing. I don't have to reset the computer right by disconnecting the battery? Don't think so with 89 xjs.
Ok guys, cruiser54 I finally had some time to work on jeep today. I also updated the profile that u suggested. Anyways I finally checked and I have no spark. Starter is working. But no spark. I checked all the grounds. Just recently I upgraded the alternator, and I upgraded all the grounds with bigger wire and cleaned up the bolts....I have a volt tester. I can check to see if the module is working. But need to know what voltage I'm needing to see, also what other things to check ...thank you for all ur suggestions
Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark.
Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad.
The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark.
Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS itself as shown in Figure 2 as Connector A, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected.
You should get a reading of .5 AC volts.
If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from NAPA or the dealer.
Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off.
A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole to 3/8″ from the stock 5/16″, or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts.
Another little tip to save tons of aggravation is to stick a bit of electrical tape to your 11mm socket and then shove the bolt in after it. This reduces the chances of dropping that special bolt into the bell housing.
08-28-2023, 02:25 AM
