cruiser54

That's nuttin'.

atom89xjlmt

i know but the whole jeep has 342xxx miles and i am the second owner. I dont know if the previous owner changed the dist or if they used the original when they changed the motor out at 192xxx miles

cruiser54

Doesn't matter at this point.

atom89xjlmt

that is true and just to say when I put the other dist in I dropped in the same exact spot as the one I took out

DFlintstone

^Just exactly how that came to pass is a question^.............................

The bushing got so worn the shaft/rotor moved over en enough to mangle things? That would be new! I have seen a bushing get so sticky the dizy did an " Exorcist" act while cranking. (that spinning dizy was not on a Jeep)

Yea, we get it that the rotor is going around, a question might be, with some resistance, (like holding it), can it slip, show that it's not solid? It IS most likely fine there, but that's an easy 2 minute test to rule out that it's not being driven, always. You COULD just feel the rotor with it sitting, but if you have a stripped gear you might be checking it on a good area. It might have a "neutral" area.

I gotta' mention, I saw a non Renix 90 at the JY last week. 90 on the door tag, but no expansion bottle, and the fuses/PDC, were under the hood. But the Jeep you got the Dizy from looks like yours....And the wire plug there on the sync pulse gerbelenator are the same. (cam sensor)

Anyway school first makes sense, we will be here. Seeing that crisp, blue, spark when you have time might be an idea.

atom89xjlmt

yeah I was as shocked as guys seem. I have worked on a lot of old school cars and trucks and never seen anything like that. But anyways on to what I found out tonite. I rechecked the time and the dist was off by two teeth but now it runs a little rough probably due to the fact that the plugs are fouled out and I either need to change them or they clean up them selfs.

DFlintstone

Here's a thing> http://ezinearticles.com/?How-to-Ind...tor&id=1357018 Also I Cruiser has a deal that is linked in my Sig. Watch that brittle little MAP tube from the inside if the TB, back and up to the Map. It will run like shet if that is cracked or off. Right on! Sounds like you'll sort it out.

NorCalJeep

I love these renix threads with cruiser and dflint. lol

DFlintstone

Ha! I just "Parrot" him, (and others when I can). . We keep different Hrs. Anyway Cruisers wright-up on indexing seems to be missing from the list I did.

blackhawktj

Yes, but at this point. Any advice worth trying.

cruiser54

Setting Your 4.0 at #1 TDC
　
With #1 spark plug removed, turn the engine over clockwise using the 3/4" front crankshaft bolt. You will see the degree marks on your front cover. You will see the timing mark on the balancer. Mark them with chalk or white-out. While turning the engine over, put your finger/thumb over #1 spark plug hole. As the mark on the balancer approaches the marks on the front cover, if you are coming up on #1 TDC, pressure in the cylinder will push on your finger. If there's no pressure, you're at #6 TDC and need to crank the engine over until you see the marks coming together and you get pressure. Set the mark on the balancer to the 0 mark on the front cover.





Remove the distributor cap and cut a "window" into the side of the distributor cap at the #1 spark plug wire post . The "window" should be large enough to allow easy visual inspection of the position of the distributor rotor at the #1 spark plug wire post. Reinstall the distributor cap.

Install a ¾" wrench or socket onto the vibration damper retaining bolt. Rotate the engine in a clockwise direction until the #1 cylinder is at top dead center. Align the timing mark on the vibration damper with the "0" degree mark on the front cover timing scale. The tip of the distributor rotor should be near the #1 spark plug wire post.

Disconnect the distributor electrical connection. Remove the distributor holddown clamp, holddown bolt and distributor. Remove the distributor cap and rotor.

Place the distributor housing upside down in a soft jaw vise. Scribe a line 1/2 inch from the end of the distributor locating tab. Cut the distributor locating tab at the scribed line with a saw.

Remove any burrs and metal filings from the distributor. Reinstall rotor.

If necessary, using a flat blade screwdriver, turn the oil pump gear drive shaft until the slot is slightly past the 11 o'clock position. The oil pump gear drive shaft is accessible through the distributor mounting bore in the engine block.

Visually align the modified locating tab area of the distributor housing with the holddown clamp bolt hole.

Turn the rotor to the 4 o'clock position.
Lower the distributor into the engine block until it seats. The rotor should now be very close to the 5 o'clock position.

Reinstall the distributor cap with the cutout "window". Rotate the distributor housing until the trailing edge of the distributor rotor tip is just departing from the #1 spark plug wire post terminal .

Reinstall the distributor holddown clamp and bolt.. Reinspect the position of the rotor to the #1 spark plug wire post to insure that it has not moved.

Install the new distributor cap, reconnect the distributor electrical connections.
Revised 07/03/2012

cruiser54

Are you being sarcastic?

DFlintstone

Might have been a complement Pete. The fact that the student, and the teacher are at loggerheads over what to call the cam sensor, and Nor Cal noticed.

My wife done run the Dremel batteries down again. They are on the solar charger but there won't be sun till next spring. Guess I can wait to index my dizzy....But if some Jeep Teck could provide somethin .... Where's 6:00 again at lunch time?

DFlintstone

Just sayen...since the manuals are all wrong, (#1 is at 5:00 viewed from the side)(153624 clockwise), something better then the FSM or this, (not needing a plasma saw), might be nice. >> http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/dist_index.html

Rustydog555

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