89 Won't Stay Running
#1
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 138
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From: Knoxville, TN
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
89 Won't Stay Running
The main issue it had when I got it. It's already had plenty of redneck diagnostics with spliced wired and what not. They said it was probably the ignition switch, but I tried a replacement and still no go. Right now, it will start and run on its own if you hold the key in the start position. When you let it into run it dies. Currently hot wired with the battery straight to the ballast resistor and it runs fine that way. I've tried swapping relays around and it remains unchanged. I'm thinking maybe it's the computer?
#2
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 5,817
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From: In the middle of Minnesota!
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Not sure what you mean by "currently running with battery straight to the ballast resistor"
With the symptoms you describe, the ballast resistor IS the primary suspect. Bypass it with a small piece of wire or tie the ends together, whatever to bypass it for a test. It is there only to reduce noise in the fuel pump circuit, later models don't even have this. Many have left this resistor bypassed.
When the resistor is bad, it will start and run momentarily as the resistor (by design) is bypassed when the key is in the full start position. But when you let off the key, the ballast resistor is back in circuit and if it is bad, will kill the fuel pump.
With the symptoms you describe, the ballast resistor IS the primary suspect. Bypass it with a small piece of wire or tie the ends together, whatever to bypass it for a test. It is there only to reduce noise in the fuel pump circuit, later models don't even have this. Many have left this resistor bypassed.
When the resistor is bad, it will start and run momentarily as the resistor (by design) is bypassed when the key is in the full start position. But when you let off the key, the ballast resistor is back in circuit and if it is bad, will kill the fuel pump.
#4
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
From: Knoxville, TN
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Not sure what you mean by "currently running with battery straight to the ballast resistor"
With the symptoms you describe, the ballast resistor IS the primary suspect. Bypass it with a small piece of wire or tie the ends together, whatever to bypass it for a test. It is there only to reduce noise in the fuel pump circuit, later models don't even have this. Many have left this resistor bypassed.
When the resistor is bad, it will start and run momentarily as the resistor (by design) is bypassed when the key is in the full start position. But when you let off the key, the ballast resistor is back in circuit and if it is bad, will kill the fuel pump.
With the symptoms you describe, the ballast resistor IS the primary suspect. Bypass it with a small piece of wire or tie the ends together, whatever to bypass it for a test. It is there only to reduce noise in the fuel pump circuit, later models don't even have this. Many have left this resistor bypassed.
When the resistor is bad, it will start and run momentarily as the resistor (by design) is bypassed when the key is in the full start position. But when you let off the key, the ballast resistor is back in circuit and if it is bad, will kill the fuel pump.
#5
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 5,817
Likes: 105
From: In the middle of Minnesota!
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Not the crank sensor. If the crank sensor is bad, you will not have spark and you will not have fuel going TO the fuel injectors.
Because the previous owner went with a custom (ie: redneck) wiring for power to your fuel circuit, you have bypassed the electronic controls for it, which is the likely cause.
I would recommend returning it to OEM wiring and then isolating the "true" root cause and resolving it.
I know you bought it this way, but I hate it when people just start wiring things on their own UNLESS it is done for a very good reason, and UNLESS they have knowledge of other circuits that are and might be affected. It
Good luck!
Because the previous owner went with a custom (ie: redneck) wiring for power to your fuel circuit, you have bypassed the electronic controls for it, which is the likely cause.
I would recommend returning it to OEM wiring and then isolating the "true" root cause and resolving it.
I know you bought it this way, but I hate it when people just start wiring things on their own UNLESS it is done for a very good reason, and UNLESS they have knowledge of other circuits that are and might be affected. It
Good luck!
Last edited by tjwalker; 03-26-2011 at 06:58 AM.
#7
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 31
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
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#8
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 138
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From: Knoxville, TN
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The wire closest to the front of the Jeep. When connected to the other one, it sounds different. I would much rather delete the hot wire and run it as it should instead of wiring up a fuel pump toggle switch.
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