89 XJ Radiator Leaks, Overheating Problems but I'm an idiot
#1
89 XJ Radiator Leaks, Overheating Problems but I'm an idiot
Hello, I'm an idiot/non-mechanic, but here is the vehicle: 89 4.0L Straight 6 XJ Cherokee (close cooling system), 150k miles, and here are the symptoms:
Radiator leaking moderately at the top, passenger side.
Holding the pumps, they get hot but cannot feel any liquid inside moving.
With AC on, the electric fan is not working.
Engine overheating after 5-10min of running/idling.
It is Overheating...If I fiddle with the the blower (selecting between defrost, heat, and vent settings) I can manage to keep the temp between 220-235, but after ten minutes of driving/idling I have to turn it off because it gets to the red, approaching 260. The fan clutch feels fine (not loose, and can't hand-spin it more than one rotation). The only leak seems to be coming from within the radiator. I also see some on the lower radiator hose at the bottom, but probably just dripping down.
History
Springtime one year ago I had a professional, thorough radiator flush and a new thermostat installed for $300. Lots of nasty, rusty guck came out. Later in the summer 2010 a freeze plug blew and it was replaced.
my suspicions
- there is a clog at the top of the radiator...?
- there might be air bubbles...?
- water pump has died
- plastic resevoir cap is cracked, leaking air
Please help - and suggest something other than a head gasket, freeze plud or similarly bad bad news...Should I pressure test or exhaust gas test? Repalce the whole system to an open cooling system? Will that cost less than $500??? I live in Alaska, and I'm not mechanically inclined but can't afford the rates here in Fairbanks.
Radiator leaking moderately at the top, passenger side.
Holding the pumps, they get hot but cannot feel any liquid inside moving.
With AC on, the electric fan is not working.
Engine overheating after 5-10min of running/idling.
It is Overheating...If I fiddle with the the blower (selecting between defrost, heat, and vent settings) I can manage to keep the temp between 220-235, but after ten minutes of driving/idling I have to turn it off because it gets to the red, approaching 260. The fan clutch feels fine (not loose, and can't hand-spin it more than one rotation). The only leak seems to be coming from within the radiator. I also see some on the lower radiator hose at the bottom, but probably just dripping down.
History
Springtime one year ago I had a professional, thorough radiator flush and a new thermostat installed for $300. Lots of nasty, rusty guck came out. Later in the summer 2010 a freeze plug blew and it was replaced.
my suspicions
- there is a clog at the top of the radiator...?
- there might be air bubbles...?
- water pump has died
- plastic resevoir cap is cracked, leaking air
Please help - and suggest something other than a head gasket, freeze plud or similarly bad bad news...Should I pressure test or exhaust gas test? Repalce the whole system to an open cooling system? Will that cost less than $500??? I live in Alaska, and I'm not mechanically inclined but can't afford the rates here in Fairbanks.
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 882
Likes: 2
From: Michigan (Home state) Stationed in Montana
Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2L MPI V8 (318)
Well, think about it. That means the coolant isn't circulating correctly and therefore not keeping temps low. I'd start with a radiator and system flush, see if that does it, and that's the easiest and cheapest one of your options. Second guess I'd have was water pump, not circulating water or coolant. Maybe pull the T-stat and check that as well, just a few bolts and one wrench, not very hard either.
Mine ran like that when I first bought it, flush to clean the system and a new thermostat did it. Never goes above 210 now when I'm just local cruising.
Good luck!
Mine ran like that when I first bought it, flush to clean the system and a new thermostat did it. Never goes above 210 now when I'm just local cruising.
Good luck!
#3
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 5,817
Likes: 105
From: In the middle of Minnesota!
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If this were mine, I would replace that radiator AND put in a NEW (never rebuilt) water pump. They are the 2 most critical pieces of the cooling system.
Good time to do both when you have everything drained out and torn down.
The parts aren't that expensive and most do-it-yourselfers can do this. Manual can be helpful here. Factory service manual is best, then Chiltons, then pulling up the rear is Haynes. Haynes makes great underwear, but **** poor manuals.
Good time to do both when you have everything drained out and torn down.
The parts aren't that expensive and most do-it-yourselfers can do this. Manual can be helpful here. Factory service manual is best, then Chiltons, then pulling up the rear is Haynes. Haynes makes great underwear, but **** poor manuals.
#4
If this were mine, I would replace that radiator AND put in a NEW (never rebuilt) water pump. They are the 2 most critical pieces of the cooling system.
Good time to do both when you have everything drained out and torn down.
The parts aren't that expensive and most do-it-yourselfers can do this. Manual can be helpful here. Factory service manual is best, then Chiltons, then pulling up the rear is Haynes. Haynes makes great underwear, but **** poor manuals.
Good time to do both when you have everything drained out and torn down.
The parts aren't that expensive and most do-it-yourselfers can do this. Manual can be helpful here. Factory service manual is best, then Chiltons, then pulling up the rear is Haynes. Haynes makes great underwear, but **** poor manuals.
#5
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 5,817
Likes: 105
From: In the middle of Minnesota!
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Agree on the upgrade to open cooling system. Thermostat was replaced a year ago though, and is probably okay. UNLESS it was an "el-cheapo" no-name thermostat. I buy my stats from Jeep and also like the Stant SuperStat.
#6
My selective reader is in full effect lol, you can go to www.rockauto.com for you parts, most times even with shipping its cheaper than the local big box store. Like tjwalker said go with a new not reman for the water pump. The junkyard will have the parts for the swap to an open system. http://jeephorizons.com/tech/xj_cooling.html
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#8
Thanks for your help guys! I added a couple pics. For some reason, the cooling system kicked into normal yestarday after adding a liter of water: normal operating temp, electric fan working, water and coolant pumping and no leaks.
The tstat has become stuck in the past and so maybe the mechanic put in another bad one last year.
Now when it gets a little warmer I want to replace the entire cooling system - is there a thread or online guide to help do that? Otherwise maybe I will just give it a good flush - I think there is a hose connect for that right?
Thanks for your teachings everyone!
The tstat has become stuck in the past and so maybe the mechanic put in another bad one last year.
Now when it gets a little warmer I want to replace the entire cooling system - is there a thread or online guide to help do that? Otherwise maybe I will just give it a good flush - I think there is a hose connect for that right?
Thanks for your teachings everyone!
#9
Seasoned Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 424
Likes: 0
From: Memphis,TN area
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: ERH 4.0L 16 Power Tech
Go to your Jeep dealer and purchase a real deal Jeep Service Manual for your year/model vehicle. It will lead you step by step through the process.
FYI: Car problems seem to occur at the most inopportune moment in time. You obviously recognize you have some problems with your Jeep. Purchase an all metal radiator, not the plastic tank version. Purchase a new thermostat, water pump, hoses and fresh coolant. Install them. You'll be glad you did. The open cooling system may be an option to consider as has been suggested.
FYI: Car problems seem to occur at the most inopportune moment in time. You obviously recognize you have some problems with your Jeep. Purchase an all metal radiator, not the plastic tank version. Purchase a new thermostat, water pump, hoses and fresh coolant. Install them. You'll be glad you did. The open cooling system may be an option to consider as has been suggested.
#11
just had the same problem
hey i have the same year Xj so i tore everything apart and my water pump was bad so i replaced it and now it run's good and the coolent is flowing strong my temp is now running 150-180 witch is good i would try and replace the water pump if your fluid isnt flowing properly
#12
hey were u from i can help u out if you want and show u how to change out your water pump and everything else but the easist way to do it the size sockets needed to do this is 13m 15m 14m wench 13m fist take out you hole intake box easy 2 with the belt still tight lossen the water pump pully nutts there are for of them 3 take out the electric fan 4 lossen up the power sterring pump note the power sterring pump and the bracket it conects to hase to come complete off 5 take the belt of and finish taking off the water pump pully 6 disconect the lower radiator hose FLAT HEAD SCREWDRIVER 7 there are 5 bults holding the water pump into place Note to be able to see better take off the water outlet and all three hoses repeat the steps on putting it back together if u have never done it before it will take u half the day to get familiar with your jeep good luck
#13
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 562
Likes: 0
From: Pagosa Springs, Colorado
Year: 88-ish
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Go buy a Haynes manual and just start replacing parts in the cooling system. I had the same problem when I bought be 88 and I ended up keeping the closed loop system and just replacing all the parts in it. 3 core all metal radiator helped a lot too. I also found about two handfuls of broken plastic pieces in the hoses near the fill bottle that prob weren't helping much either. If you search on google you should be able to find all your replacement parts for under $400 and just follow the Haynes to install it yourself. Problem solved.
#14
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 719
Likes: 0
From: Bel Air, Maryland 21015
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hose too - chances are some of that crud has attached itself to the inside of the hoses waiting for a bad time to come off and cause harm.
Convert system, replace everything with NEW and then nothing will be suspect.
#15
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 31
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
up grade to newer design system get rid of the pressuer bottle closed systyem ,new thermostat ,pump if need ,new hose if needed and be done with the pressurised bottle for ever