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91 running poorly after flooding and motor swap

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Old 05-31-2012, 08:33 PM
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Default 91 running poorly after flooding and motor swap

Hey guys I need some advice here if you will.

Long story short, hydrolocked my motor after getting stuck, ended up pulling the 4.0 HO myself and replacing it with another, I think from a wrangler as the fan was center mounted, motor mounts were different and so on. Anyways, got it running but poor at best. It will start but doesnt idle good it will sputter and the rpms go up and down sparatically. When you drive it it runs worse, pops and stutters pretty bad, smokes some and if you floor it while driving you get a loud backfire, kicks stutters and smokes (i am color blind, cant tell ya what color the smoke is), never shuts off though. Almost as if it was out of time however I took it in to a mechanic today to check the timing and he said its perfect. He thought it might be computer damaged from being submerged, bad ground from the install or something of the nature...could that be the issues? The check engine light doesnt work so dont know if its even on, dont know why it doesnt work though just never has.

I have replaced the o2 sensor, as that broke when it got stuck, outside of that nothing else has been replaced other then the motor lol. I dont really know where to go from here as I dont have a lot of money to throw at it right now but need it running. I was hoping for some insight from someone that knows what to look for after flooding a Cherokee. Dont know if its related or not but on the way home from the mechanics the speedometer wasnt working then all the sudden started working.

thanks for any help.

Old 05-31-2012, 09:57 PM
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honestly it does sound like a computer failure... I would take a look at all of your grounds again to rule them out though. Also did you check to see if your Crank Position Sensor was working right?
Old 06-01-2012, 12:33 AM
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You may have destroyed your throttle position sensor or distributor when after flooding it, both which are not big fans of water. There is a way to test your TPS to see that it is working properly. Do a search to try and find that.

And definitely freshen up your grounds, that'd be a great first step.
Old 06-01-2012, 06:17 AM
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Alright, thanks for the help guys, I will do a search on how to test those and see what I come up with tomorrow. Also will remove the few grounds and clean them up.
Old 06-01-2012, 07:09 AM
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Are all the ground wires reattached properly to the dipstick tube stud?
Old 06-01-2012, 10:06 AM
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Cleaned up the grounds, didnt seem to change it much, if at all. The ground on the dipstick tube is mounted on the side of the block, where the other grounds ran to...not sure if that matters? Took it back to the mechanic and he double checked the timing and found that he had it 1 tooth off, set it back and it seems to run better from that. It still pops under WOT, idles a little rough. He said that the CPS really only has to do with cranking and after that it relies on the pick up plate under the distributor cap and to give that a try.

Also he doesnt think its the TPS as generally it would fall off a bit when pushing the throttle which is not happening. I will need to get a meter to test it though.

Thinking computer or still possibly pick up plate, is that the cam positioning sensor?
Old 06-08-2012, 02:43 PM
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Still not running real good, hoping to get some help here.

When starting it, it starts right up only misses a bit and if you can imagine a cold motor how the automatic choke would come on till it warms up...well with the jeep it idles up for about 5 seconds then barely stays running till it warms up, doesnt miss nearly as much once warmed up.

Still smoking, not sure if they are related with the above issue or not? Its oil smoke. Guy I got the motor from said it didnt smoke prior...some sensor or computer that could be causing this?

Hi-beams are low beams and lows are high. When the blue lights lit up on the dash you have your lows on lol, when its out the hi-beams are on

Any help would be appreciated.
Old 06-08-2012, 02:58 PM
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Is the hose for the map sensor hooked up correctly ?
Old 06-09-2012, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by cherokee90
Is the hose for the map sensor hooked up correctly ?
That may very well be the issue!! Upon further examination I see the 3 wires going to it are all taped up, removing the tape shows 3 wires with the red clip/crimp connectors on them but they were so old they werent clamping the wires together any more. Anyone got a diagram on how the wires should be hooked up? Be a great help to know how they are supposed to go lol


thank you again
Old 06-09-2012, 11:14 AM
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Red w/white tracer, Brown, Black w/tracer.

That's looking into the engine compartment from the radiator side.
Old 06-09-2012, 03:29 PM
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Thanks for the info cruiser54, mine were a bit different on the colors I think, not sure, but got it figured out. Definitely starts and idles better but still smokes. I am color blind so hard to tell the color its smoking but smells like oil burning. Might just be how it is just not sure yet.
Old 06-10-2012, 01:36 PM
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Oil smoke would be rings, valve seals or guides or hopefully a clogged CCV system. No sensor will cause oil smoke. Do you trust the guy you got the engine from? What weight oil are you running?
Old 06-10-2012, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by NoClearCoat
Oil smoke would be rings, valve seals or guides or hopefully a clogged CCV system. No sensor will cause oil smoke. Do you trust the guy you got the engine from? What weight oil are you running?
If the map sensor does not have the vacuum line hooked up it will make the Jeep smoke at idle from running so rich.
Old 06-10-2012, 03:58 PM
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Most certainly. But it would be black smoke and stink of money (gas lol) and would not cause smoke that "smells like oil burning".
Old 06-11-2012, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by NoClearCoat
Oil smoke would be rings, valve seals or guides or hopefully a clogged CCV system. No sensor will cause oil smoke. Do you trust the guy you got the engine from? What weight oil are you running?
I don't really know the guy I got it from outside of having gotten parts from him before. Never had any issues...course never a motor either.

Running 10-40 I believe is what it called for. I guess cheapest would be valve seals/guides to try next huh?

Son drove it to his girlfriends house the other day, said it still pops some, missing a bit still also.

Last edited by ducter; 06-11-2012 at 04:30 PM.


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