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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
So I recently picked up a 92 xj laredo that was missing the key fob. is there a way to add a keyless entry system without molesting the current wiring ?
The 92 had a one button remote which was pretty cool. Like the ones on my 96s, though, it was IR and very weak. The best solution is the following which I may or may not do (my one remote works both my 1996s) - It may not work on a 1992 - I used to have a 1992 that my father bought new, and it had the one button remote:
. During my research, I noticed how the 1996-1998 rectangular remotes are very similar in design to those of GM automobiles of the same time period.
I learned that both Chrysler and GM cars --for a brief time-- shared a RF system produced by "TRW Automotive."
After a bit of research, I determined that this system is not only compatible with Jeeps, but it's also simple to install, and best of all, allows one to program his/her own remote(s)!! Of all of the GM cars, I determined that the best system to recover is one from a 1993-1995 Chevrolet Camaro or Pontiac Firebird (it's the same car). The RKE module is located right under the passenger's side kick panel. There is also a wonderful website that I must give credit to for having assisted me with this. It lays out a complete and accurate wiring schematic for the system. <http://berlinetta.info/KeylessEntry.htm>
The RKE module I used in my Jeep was removed from a donor 1994 Firebird. The new module is beefier than the IR "Jeep" one I took out of my overhead console, so I moved it to a space underneath the passenger's side dashboard next to the TCU. It fits snug. This is also a good place for it, because all the wires needed to connect it are underneath the passenger's side kick panel. Bearing in mind that this application was specific to a 1992 XJ; other applications may have different wire color codes. The wiring is as follows (see attachment).
Programming:Once the module is installed, turn the key ignition to "ON" but not "RUN." Ground the Black/white wire. Within a few seconds the door locks will cycle. press and hold BOTH "lock" and "unlock" buttons on the transmitter. The locks will cycle again if and when the remote is accepted. Program any other remotes at this time, this way, as well. Once the ground is removed and the key ignition is turned "OFF," the transmitter data will be stored in the receiver. If the wire is re-grounded, all data will be lost and the remotes will need to be reprogrammed.
Remember that 1996 ZJ remote I purchased? I was able to program it directly to this RKE module! This means that the remote I'm using is a genuine "Chrysler/Jeep" RF remote which now operates the key-less system in my 1992 XJ! (the remote even has a "Chrysler" logo on it!)
Sweet!!
Also, that 1999 WJ remote I mentioned earlier is not compatible with this system. I tried to program it and it didn't take; this despite also being a TRW Automotive product(!)
So there ya have it!
Anyone can now have an "official" Jeep RF RKE system in his/her pre-1997 XJ! My remote now works up to about 20 feet away and I don't need to be pointing it at the car.
I've noticed some confusion out there about the infrared keyless entry systems for XJ Cherokees, particularly between the years of 1990 and 1996. There are some people who, like myself, wish to upgrade to a better, or at least simpler system without having to hack their wiring to pieces; we want something more "plug and play"--and there is also a small minority among us who wish to maintain the "Jeep" aesthetic of our rigs without installing the gaudy, faux carbon fiber, blue flashing LED, chrome plated plastic aftermarket crap from China.
For those of us who own a 1990-1992 Cherokee, we may or may not have our original keyless remote. For those of us who do, we know how annoying and unreliable it can be. The following write-up is a solution to this problem, an upgrade, for people who don't want to screw too much with system they have. This is also a decent reference for people who need an explained diagram of their keyless entry receiver wires (don't bother with your Chilton or Haynes for such detailed explanations as this; they will only let you down).
The 1987-1992 Cherokees utilized a system pioneered by Renault in the early '80s. It was an infrared system that switched back and forth between lock and unlock with a single button. The remotes were small, left-hand unfriendly, and eventually wore out, and as such, are rare to still see in operation.
My 1992 Limited was sold to me with it's original remote, to my surprise. I have since soldered it 10 times as the contacts on a chip inside keep stressing and breaking. It's a crappy design, indeed. Now that I've decided to retire my stress-inducing remote, I want to replace it with something comparable.
What's nice about the Chrysler infrared remotes and receivers utilized in the 1993-1996 XJs and ZJs is that (1) they are on-board programmable (2) the receivers fit perfectly into existing 1990-1992 overhead consoles and ceiling mounted receiver globes and (3) you get to choose between locking and unlocking functions.
The following is an explanation (FINALLY!) of the wires attached to the receiver, their color codes, and functions. This is based on trial and error since there seems to be no good resources out there. It also represents the majority of what I've seen in Jeeps, though there may be outliers that deviate slightly.
1987-1989 Cherokees:
Black - ground
Green - lock
Tan - unlock
Pink - 12v constant
1990-1992:
Black - ground
Orange/purple - lock
Pink/purple - unlock
Pink - 12v constant
Blue/yellow - interior lights
Orange/pink - not used, dead-ends in passenger's kick-panel.
Quick and dirty upgrade for 1990-1992 Cherokees (it works on these cherokee for sure, this may also work on the 1987-1989s, but I've never tried it):
You need:
-One remote (eBay).
-One receiver (pick-n-pull, $10) don't forget the black, round lens that attaches to it (see pic below) the two lenses between the two styles of receivers look the same, but ARE NOT interchangeable. The receiver on the right is the one that's replacing the one on the left. It's bigger, but fear not, it fits. Also remember to chop a few inches of wiring off the pigtail from the donor Jeep; the wire connectors between 90-92 and 93-96 are not compatible so you will need to remember to grab it.
-Phillips screwdriver.
-Wire-cutters.
-Electrical tape.
-And if you're really good, a soldering iron.
*If you have to remove an overhead console, it is retained by two screws, I recall: one at the very front, above the rear-view mirror (there's a hole in the headliner material, can't miss it). The second screw is, I believe, in the middle of the back of the sunglasses holder area. Once these two screws are removed, the console will lower. I recommend doing the front one last. There's a plastic lip in the rear of the console that slides over the headliner; watch for it so an not to tear the headliner.
(1) Remove and replace the old receiver.
(2) Splice the five wires (lock, unlock, power, ground, interior lights). These are all the same colors for 1990-1996 (to the best of my knowledge).
(3) You should be left with two extraneous wires: one white/black and one yellow. Ground the yellow and temporary connect the white/black to 12v (I just tapped into the pink, 12v constant, right there).
(4) Follow normal programming procedure: If memory serves, you close all the doors, open the driver's door and leave it open, lock all the doors from the driver's switch, insert the key into the ignition and turn it to on (not start), and hold the "lock" button on the new remote, aimed at the receiver for 5 seconds. The locks should cycle signifying successful programming.
(5) Disconnect and tape off the white/black and yellow wires. These are only necessary for the programming procedure.
(6) The system should operate!
This isn't for everyone, but if you're into this kind of thing, I hope it helps.
I bought a decent but cheap RF one for my 88. Really only takes 5 wires. An always hot, a key on hot, ground, door lock, door unlock. Mounted the box under the dash. In the pic, the Tan and Green wire (ziptied on right) are the lock/unlock wires coming down from the receiver.. The red and green to the left, come from the new unit. I also opted to flash the light and honk the horn so that's a couple more wires.
I don't have to point the fob directly at the receiver. It works over greater distances (with good battery). It's easily programmable (I have 4 fobs). Replacement fobs are cheap.
05-19-2021 | 12:28 PM
